Sights in Northland & The Bay Of Islands
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Waipu Museum
The original 934 British settlers came from Scotland via Nova Scotia (Canada) between 1853 and 1860. These dour Scots at least had the good sense to eschew frigid Otago, where so many of their kindred settled, for sunnier northern climes. Their story comes to life through holograms, a short film and interactive displays at the Waipu Museum.
reviewed
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Gumdiggers Park
Kauri forests covered this area for over 100,000 years, leaving ancient logs and the much-prized gum (used for making varnish and linoleum) buried beneath. xxx covers a major gumdigging site – the region’s main industry from the 1870s to the 1920s. In 1900, some 7000 gumdiggers (wearing gumboots – the NZ name for Wellingtons) were digging holes all over Northland. Start with the 15-minute video telling the story of the trees, their mysterious destruction and the gum industry. Rope paths head through the bush, leading past reproductions of gumdiggers’ huts, ancient kauri stumps and holes left by the diggers. It was a hard life for the workers, who used jute sacks for their…
reviewed
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Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve
In the months that followed the New Zealand Wars, British troops (united with Hokianga Ngapuhi) fought Ngapuhi chief Hone Heke and his chief Kawiti in several battles. During this time the modern pa was born, effectively the world’s first sophisticated system of trench warfare. It’s worth stopping at the Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve, off SH1 south of Kawakawa, to see how impressive these fortifications were. Here you can wander the site of the last battle of the Northland War, brought to life through detailed information boards. Eventually Heke, Kawiti and George Grey (the new governor) made their peace, with no side the clear winner.
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Kauri Museum
Matakohe’s a sweet village on one of the Kaipara’s many inlets. Apart from its rural charms, the reason for visiting is the superb Kauri Museum. The giant cross-sections of trees are astounding in themselves, but the entire industry is brought to light through life-sized reproductions of a pioneer sawmill, boarding house, gumdigger’s hut and Victorian home – along with photos, artefacts, and fabulous furniture and marquetry. The Gum Room holds a weird and wonderful collection of kauri gum, the amber substance that can be carved, sculpted and polished to a jewel-like quality. The museum shop stocks mementoes crafted from kauri wood and gum.
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St Paul’s Church
Paihia’s St Paul’s Church isn’t particularly old (1925), but it stands on the site of NZ’s first church – a simple raupo (bulrush) hut constructed in 1823. It’s an altogether charming church, built from Kawakawa stone. Spot the native birds in the stained glass above the altar – the kotare (kingfisher) represents Jesus (the king plus ‘fisher of men’), while the tui (parson bird) and kereru (wood pigeon) portray the personalities of the Williams brothers (one scholarly, one forceful) who set up the mission station here.
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Pompallier
Pompallier is a rammed-earth building constructed in 1842 to house the Roman Catholic mission’s printing press, which printed a staggering 40,000 books in Maori. In the 1870s it was converted into a private home but it has been restored to its original state, complete with tannery and printing workshop. On the excellent guided tour you get to play with the tools and learn how to ‘skive off’ and become a ‘dab hand’. It’s the last remaining building of the Catholic mission in the Western Pacific.
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Old Library Arts Centre
The Old Library Arts Centre exhibits local artists in a wonderful art-deco building. Between this and the library is Pou, an intriguing sculpture consisting of 10 large poles carved with Maori, Polynesian, Celtic and Korean motifs. Grab an interpretive pamphlet from the library. The newest addition is a brightly painted Croatian gumdigger with a gum-seeking stake in one hand and his heart on fire for his woman back home – portrayed upside down and balanced on his head.
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Abbey Caves
The budget traveller’s answer to Waitomo, Abbey Caves is an undeveloped network of three caverns full of glowworms and limestone formations, 4km east of town. Grab a torch, strong shoes and a mate (you wouldn’t want to be stuck down here alone if things go pear-shaped) and prepare to get wet. The surrounding reserve is a forest of crazily shaped rock extrusions. If you’re staying at neighbouring Little Earth Lodge, you can borrow helmets and hire head torches.
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Whaling Museum
At Hihi, 15km northeast of Mangonui, is Butler Point, where you can take a guided tour around the small Whaling Museum, housed in a Victorian homestead (1843) with lovely gardens. Its first owner, Captain Butler, left Dorset when he was 14 and at 24 was captain of a whaling ship. He settled here in 1839, had 13 children and became a trader, farmer, magistrate and Member of Parliament.
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Ancient Kauri Kingdom
It’s tacky and overpriced, but Ancient Kauri Kingdom is still worth a stop. Here 50,000-year-old kauri stumps, dragged up from swamps, are fashioned into furniture, woodcraft products and a fair bit of tourist tat. The large complex includes a cafe, gift shop and workshop. A huge kauri log has an impressive spiral staircase carved into it that takes you to the mezzanine level.
reviewed
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Aroha Island Ecological Centre
Aroha Island Ecological Centre is located on a tiny 5-hectare island, 10km northeast of Kerikeri, reached via a permanent causeway through mangroves. The island provides a haven for the North Island brown kiwi and other native birds, as well as an excellent picnic spot for their nonfeathered admirers. There’s a visitor centre, and kayaks can be rented ($25 for four hours).
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Stone Store
The Stone Store, next to the Mission House, is the oldest stone building in NZ (1836). It sells interesting gifts as well as the type of goods that used to be sold in the store – although these days you’ll have a hard time bartering pigs for muskets. Tours ($10) of the Mission House depart from here and include entry to the displays on the 1st floor of the store.
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Waitangi Treaty Grounds
A visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds is a must for every itinerary. It’s full of cultural icons – the colonial-style Treaty House with its manicured garden and lawns, the surrounding bush full of native birds, the spiritual whare and the warlike waka, the three flags (UK, NZ and Maori) and the hillside views of a still-beautiful land.
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Museum & Kiwi House
West of Whangarei, 5km down the road to Dargaville at Maunu, is the Museum & Kiwi House. The complex includes a veritable village of 19th-century buildings and an impressive collection of Maori artefacts. It also offers a rare chance to see a North Island brown kiwi, although he’s a bit shy and doesn’t always feel the need to face his adoring public.
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Clendon House
Clendon House was built in the bustling 1860s by James Clendon, a trader, shipowner and magistrate. After his death, his 34-year-old half-Maori widow Jane was left with a brood of kids and a whopping £5000 debt. She managed to clear the debt and her descendants remained in the house until 1972, when it passed to the Historic Places Trust.
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Whangarei Falls
The 26m-high Whangarei Falls are the Paris Hilton of NZ waterfalls – not the most impressive but reputedly the most photographed. Short walks provide views of the water cascading over the edge of an old basalt lava flow. The falls can be reached on the Tikipunga bus, leaving from Rose St in the city.
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Dargaville Museum
Perched on top of a hill, the Dargaville Museum is more interesting than most. There’s a large gumdigging display, plus maritime, Maori and musical-instrument sections and a neat model railway. Outside, the masts of the Rainbow Warrior are mounted at a lookout near a pa site.
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Mission House
The Mission House is the country’s oldest wooden building (1822) and contains some original fittings and chattels.
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Quarry Gardens
Green-fingered volunteers have transformed Quarry Gardens, part of the Coronation Scenic Reserve which is an expanse of bush just west of the centre, into a blissful park with a lake, waterfalls, pungent floral aromas, wild bits, orderly bits and lots of positive energy.
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Haratu
Run by the local marae society, the recently opened Haratu brings authentic Maori art and craft to the Russell waterfront, most of which is available for purchase. There are also audiovisual displays and information boards.
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Maiki
Overlooking Russell is Maiki, where Hone Heke chopped down the flagpole four times. You can drive up but the view justifies a climb. Take the track west from the boat ramp along the beach at low tide, or up Wellington St otherwise.
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Native Bird Recovery Centre
West of Whangarei, 5km down the road to Dargaville at Maunu, and beside the Museum & Kiwi House is the Native Bird Recovery Centre, which nurses sick and injured birds back to health. Say hi to Woof Woof, the talking tui.
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Rewa’s Village
If you had a hard time imagining the pa in its original state, take the footbridge across the river to Rewa’s Village, a fascinating mock-up of a traditional Maori fishing village.
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Quarry Arts Centre
On one side of the Coronation Scenic Reserve, an expanse of bush just west of the centre, the Quarry Arts Centre is an eccentric village of artists’ studios and co-operative galleries.
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Russell Museum
The small but modern Russell Museum has a well-presented Maori section, a large 1:5-scale model of Captain Cook’s Endeavour and a 10-minute video on the town’s history.
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