Sights in Bay Of Islands
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St Paul’s Church
Paihia’s St Paul’s Church isn’t particularly old (1925), but it stands on the site of NZ’s first church – a simple raupo (bulrush) hut constructed in 1823. It’s an altogether charming church, built from Kawakawa stone. Spot the native birds in the stained glass above the altar – the kotare (kingfisher) represents Jesus (the king plus ‘fisher of men’), while the tui (parson bird) and kereru (wood pigeon) portray the personalities of the Williams brothers (one scholarly, one forceful) who set up the mission station here.
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Pompallier
Pompallier is a rammed-earth building constructed in 1842 to house the Roman Catholic mission’s printing press, which printed a staggering 40,000 books in Maori. In the 1870s it was converted into a private home but it has been restored to its original state, complete with tannery and printing workshop. On the excellent guided tour you get to play with the tools and learn how to ‘skive off’ and become a ‘dab hand’. It’s the last remaining building of the Catholic mission in the Western Pacific.
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Aroha Island Ecological Centre
Aroha Island Ecological Centre is located on a tiny 5-hectare island, 10km northeast of Kerikeri, reached via a permanent causeway through mangroves. The island provides a haven for the North Island brown kiwi and other native birds, as well as an excellent picnic spot for their nonfeathered admirers. There’s a visitor centre, and kayaks can be rented ($25 for four hours).
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Stone Store
The Stone Store, next to the Mission House, is the oldest stone building in NZ (1836). It sells interesting gifts as well as the type of goods that used to be sold in the store – although these days you’ll have a hard time bartering pigs for muskets. Tours ($10) of the Mission House depart from here and include entry to the displays on the 1st floor of the store.
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Waitangi Treaty Grounds
A visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds is a must for every itinerary. It’s full of cultural icons – the colonial-style Treaty House with its manicured garden and lawns, the surrounding bush full of native birds, the spiritual whare and the warlike waka, the three flags (UK, NZ and Maori) and the hillside views of a still-beautiful land.
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Mission House
The Mission House is the country’s oldest wooden building (1822) and contains some original fittings and chattels.
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Haratu
Run by the local marae society, the recently opened Haratu brings authentic Maori art and craft to the Russell waterfront, most of which is available for purchase. There are also audiovisual displays and information boards.
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Maiki
Overlooking Russell is Maiki, where Hone Heke chopped down the flagpole four times. You can drive up but the view justifies a climb. Take the track west from the boat ramp along the beach at low tide, or up Wellington St otherwise.
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Rewa’s Village
If you had a hard time imagining the pa in its original state, take the footbridge across the river to Rewa’s Village, a fascinating mock-up of a traditional Maori fishing village.
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Russell Museum
The small but modern Russell Museum has a well-presented Maori section, a large 1:5-scale model of Captain Cook’s Endeavour and a 10-minute video on the town’s history.
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Lookout
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Rainbow Falls
Starting from the neighbouring scenic reserve the 4km-long Kerikeri Walkway leads to the 27m xxx, passing by the Wharepoke Falls and the Fairy Pools. Alternatively, you can reach the Rainbow Falls from Rainbow Falls Rd, in which case it’s only a 10-minute walk.
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Kerikeri Basin
A snapshot of early Maori and Pakeha interaction is offered by a cluster of historic sites centred on this picturesque river basin. In 1819 the powerful Ngapuhi chief Hongi Hika allowed Rev Samuel Marsden to start a mission under the shadow of his Kororipo Pa.
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Christ Church
Russell lays claim to some of NZ’s oldest buildings, including Christ Church (1836), the country’s oldest church. Charles Darwin made a donation towards the cost of its construction. It’s scarred with musket and cannonball holes from the 1845 battle. The biggest memorial in the graveyard commemorates Tamati Waka Nene, a powerful Ngapuhi chief from the Hokianga who sided against Hone Heke in the Northland War.
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Aroha Island
Kip among the kiwi on the eco island of love (aroha). There’s a wide range of reasonably priced options, from the peaceful campsites by the shelly beach to an extremely comfortable lodge gazing over the water.
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Haruru Falls
A few kilometres upstream from Waitangi are the attractive horseshoe Haruru Falls, which are lit up at night. A walkway leads along the Waitangi River and on a boardwalk through the mangroves from here to the Treaty Grounds (6km, 2½ hours one-way).
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