Things to do in Dunedin & The Otago Peninsula
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Otago Museum
The modern and interactive Otago Museum explores Otago’s cultural and physical past and present, from geology and dinosaurs to the modern day. The beautifully designed Tangata Whenua gallery houses an impressive waka taua (war canoe), wonderfully worn old carvings and some lovely pounamu (greenstone) works. This is one of the richest repositories of Maori knowledge on the South Island. If you’ve already been out on the peninsula admiring penguins and albatrosses, the museum’s collection of ancient and contemporary wildlife will fascinate. Join themed guided tours ($10, see website for times and themes). Children can explore at the hands-on Discovery World (adult/child/f…
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Nature’s Wonders
Situated just 1km past the albatross colony, and based on a large sheep farm that covers most of the peninsula’s tip, Nature’s Wonders runs one-hour tours that take you up close to Stewart Island shags, NZ fur seals, and finally along a private little beach to a yellow-eyed penguin colony, where you can get within metres of the birds without disturbing them. The tour is conducted in ‘go-anywhere’ Argos vehicles and is an exciting combo of improbable scenery and wildlife adventure. It’s worth it for the beautiful vistas alone.
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Dunedin Farmers Market
The thriving Dunedin Farmers Market convenes at the Dunedin Railway Station. It’s all local, all eatable (or drinkable), and mostly organic, with everything from Speight’s-beer-flavoured ice cream, gourmet sausages, and Russian pancakes filled with blue cod. There’s usually live music on offer, and a passionate foodie vibe. Grab felafels or espresso to sustain you while you browse, and stock up on interesting fresh meats and seafood, vegies and cheeses for your journey. Also pick up some locally brewed Green Man organic beer.
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Yellow-Eyed Penguin Conservation Reserve
The Yellow-Eyed Penguin Conservation Reserve has replanted the penguins’ breeding grounds, built nesting sites, cared for sick and injured birds and trapped predators. Ninety-minute tours include a talk on penguin conservation and close-up viewing from a system of hides. You can see the birds all year round, but summer is best. Between October and March, tours run regularly from 10.15am to 90 minutes before sunset; between April and September they’re just from 3.15pm to 4.45pm. The tours are popular, so book ahead.
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Orokonui Ecosanctuary
The Orokonui Ecosanctuary occupies a 300-hectare nature reserve on Otago Harbour’s north shore. Its mission is to provide a predator-free refuge to repopulate species previously exiled to smaller offshore islands. It’s a good chance to see the tuatara, NZ’s iconic living dinosaur unchanged for 200 million years. At the time of writing, the ecosanctuary could only be visited on a 90-minute guided walk (tour $38; [hours] 10.30am & 1.30pm), but unguided visits were also planned. Check the Dunedin i-SITE for an update.
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Backstage
Hidden down an appropriately seedy backstreet, magnificently grungy Backstage is the live-music venue in Dunedin. This is where NZ's bigger acts usually play when they're in town, whether they're pop, metal, rock, jazz or dub. Check local media or the website to see who's playing when you're in town. Acts here can be pretty loud, but it's a big bar, so you can generally escape far enough to be able to think, if not talk. It even does bar food, but you'd have to be pretty hungry…
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Larnach Castle
Standing proudly on the peninsula’s highest point, Larnach Castle was an extravagance of the Dunedin merchant, banker and politician William Larnach. Built in 1871 to impress his French-nobility-descended wife (she apparently didn’t like it much), the ostentatious, Gothic mansion is filled with exquisite antique furnishings. Larnach committed suicide in Parliament House in 1898, financially ruined, and with his latest wife and favourite son romantically linked.
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Arc Cafe
Wonderful Arc Cafe would be an asset in any city: out front there's a laid-back, grungy bar-café with mismatched tables and a gentle, welcoming vibe from the be-dreaded staff and drinkers; in back there's a dark live-music venue where fine bands play to packed crowds, or lousy bands play for their own entertainment. Good for a midday coffee or a late night beer. The vegetarian fare here is some of the best (and certainly the healthiest) options for late-night snacking.
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Royal Albatross Centre
Taiaroa Head, at the peninsula’s eastern tip, has the world’s only mainland royal albatross colony. The best time to visit is from December to February, when one parent is constantly guarding the young while the other delivers food throughout the day. Sightings are most common in the afternoon when the winds pick up; calm days don’t see much bird action. The only public access is through the Royal Albatross Centre. One-hour tours (adult/child $45/22.50) include viewing from a glassed-in hut overlooking the nesting sites. There’s no viewing from mid-September to late November, and from late November to December the birds are nestbound so it’s difficult to see that magnific…
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Empire
The stately old dame of Dunedin's pubs, this is a ‘must visit' if you're one of the army of Flying Nun pilgrims that visit Dunedin each year. It's not in the hot list of greatest live-music venues these days, but is still a damn fine venue, with bars on each of three floors, each providing a different vibe, and often hosting local bands (perhaps blues or acoustic) or jam sessions on the bottom floor.
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Bisztro
Bisztro Warmed by open fires and with service smooth but relaxed, this restaurant is hidden away in an old wooden house on an almost-suburban street. Ingredients are largely locally sourced and carefully selected. The restaurant also sells its own preserves and relishes, so if your meal inspires, grab some chilli paste or pickle to cater your slow-food, roadside meals later in your travels.
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Chick’s Hotel
Across in Port Chalmers, Chicks is the archetypal rock-and-roll pub, and the venue’s 19th-century stone walls now play host to everything from touring alt-country bands from the States to local metal bands. If any of Dunedin’s esteemed Flying Nun alumni are performing, chances are it will be here or at Sammy’s. Catch bus 13 or 14 from stand 4 outside the Countdown supermarket on Cumberland St.
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Circadian Rhythm Café
Specialising in organic Indian curries, this all-vegan cafe is also known for its cookies and cakes. The superfriendly staff will also try to tweak things to oblige gluten-free requests. Circadian Rhythm is a music venue, with a variety of interesting acts on Friday nights from 5.30pm. Dunedin’s Emerson’s and Green Man beers are both available, so you don’t have to be too healthy.
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Public Art Gallery
Explore NZ’s art scene at Dunedin’s expansive and airy Public Art Gallery. Climb the iron staircase for great city views. Works on permanent show are mainly contemporary, including a big NZ collection featuring local kids Ralph Hotere and Frances Hodgkins, Cantabrian Colin McCahon, and some old CF Goldie oils. Rotating exhibits include some European works and Kiwi masters.
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Etrusco at the Savoy
A wonderful, large and noisy space, with magnificent marble pillars, high ceiling, fireplace and central bar, Etrusco is great for large groups of family or friends; less wonderful for a quiet romantic dinner. Pastas and thin-crust pizzas are the mainstay, and wine is encouraged. A fun night is guaranteed, though reports of the pasta itself range from magnifica to non.
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Izakaya Yuki
Cute and cosy, with a huge array of small dishes on which to graze, Yuki is a lovely spot for supper or a relaxed, drawn-out Japanese meal. Make a night of it with sake or draught Asahi beer, and multiple plates of yakitori (grilled skewers), gyoza (dumplings), or sushi and sashimi. The wall-to-wall sumo wrestling videos will ensure you don’t eat too much.
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Cadbury World
Follow your chocolate cravings to the massive Cadbury World and don a paper hairnet for the full 75-minute tour of the factory that includes a spiel on history and production, a look at their version of a liquid-chocolate waterfall, and a taste of the end product. The shorter 45-minute weekend tour omits the factory tour and concentrates on the really yummy part.
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Temple Gallery
The Temple Gallery was Dunedin’s first synagogue (1863), and then for 30 years a Masonic temple. The building retains marks of both, and is a fabulous artspace. The Chills recorded their last album here, and Dunedin bands still launch new offerings here. Artists represented are predominantly Otago locals and include Ralph Hotere, Donna Demente and Anita DeSoto.
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Modaks
This funky little cafe and bar, with brick walls, mismatched formica tables, and couches for slouching, is popular with students and those who appreciate chilled-out reggae while they nurse a pot of tea. Sundaes, smoothies and beer make it a great escape from the heat, and grilled homemade focaccia bread with yummy, interesting toppings warm the insides in winter.
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Plato
A regular winner in Cuisine magazine’s Best of NZ’s gongs, Plato has a retro-themed location near the harbour and a strong beer and wine list. Try standouts like Goan fish curry or slow-braised pork belly with crispy crackling. Plato’s spin on seafood is always excellent, and Sunday brunch is worth the shortish trek from the CBD. Bookings are recommended.
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Albar
This former butchers is now a bohemian little bar attracting just maybe the widest age range in Dunedin. Most punters are drawn by the 50 single malt whiskies, a changing array of interesting tap beers, and a concise menu of cheap-as-chips bar snacks ($4 to $8). Background music stays firmly in the background, making Albar a top spot for conversation.
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Scotia
Now relocated from the Dunedin Railway Station to a cosy heritage town house, Scotia toasts all things Scottish with a wall-full of single malt whisky and hearty fare such as smoked salmon and char-grilled venison. The two Scottish Robbies – Burns and Coltrane – look down approvingly on a menu that also includes haggis, and duck and whisky pâté.
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Mou Very
The tiny Mou Very may well be the world’s smallest bar. It’s only 1.8m wide, but is still big enough to host regular funk and soul DJ sessions most Fridays from 5pm. There’s just six bar stools, so Mou Very’s boho regulars usually spill out into an adjacent laneway. By day, it’s a handy refuelling spot for your morning or afternoon espresso.
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Marine Studies Centre
The Marine Studies Centre has octopuses, seahorses, crayfish, sharks and a huge pink model squid. Help with fish-feeding (Wednesday and Saturday 2pm to 3pm), or join a guided tour at 10.30am (adult/child/family $21/11/48 for entry plus tour). The centre showcases the work of the adjacent university-run marine laboratory.
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Forsyth Barr Stadium
Constructed for the 2011 Rugby World Cup, Dunedin’s newest sports venue is 2km from the centre of town. It’s the only major stadium in NZ with a fully covered roof and will host the Highlanders Super 14 rugby team from 2012 and the Otago NPC rugby team from 2011. See www.orfu.co.nz and www.highlanders-rugby.co.nz for match schedules.
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