From the top of Auckland’s highest volcanic cone (196m) the entire isthmus and both harbours are laid bare. The symmetrical crater (50m deep) is known as Te Ipu Kai a Mataaho (the Food Bowl of Mataaho, the god of things hidden in the ground) and is highly tapu (sacred); do not enter it, but feel free to explore the remainder of the mountain. The remains of pa terraces and storage pits are clearly visible.

You can drive to the very top or you can join the legions of fitness freaks jogging or trudging up. Tour buses are banned from the summit, but shuttles will transport infirm passengers to the top from the car park on the lower slopes.