Pachermo & Kyajo Ri Expedition with Soren Kruse Ledet

Pachermo & Kyajo Ri Expedition with Soren Kruse Ledet information and booking

  • Duration
    31 days
  • Group size
  • Difficulty
    Intermediate Mountaineering Expedition
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Schedule Details

  • 31 day trip
  • 4 nights hotel
  • 2 nights eco-lodge
  • 1 night permanent campsite
  • 23 nights wilderness campsite
Equipment Required
Specialist gear required include walking boots and day pack (a comprehensive gear list is provided in the pre-departure information provided on booking).


  • Climb Pachermo & Kyajo Ri
  • Trek & climb the Everest & Rolwaling regions
  • Sherpa Culture
  • Namche Bazaar
  • Himalayan mountain flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
  • Sightseeing in Kathmandu - Pashupatinath (a major Hindu shrine) and the giant Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath

Tour description provided by World Expeditions

This expedition is an exciting itinerary that takes in two rarely climbed peaks in the Rolwaling and Khumbu regions of Nepal. Beginning in the Rolwaling we approach Pachermo (6187m) via the famous Tashi Labsta pass to climb the north ridge which sits directly above the pass. This is a relatively straight forward climb and a good warm up for our main objective - Kyajo Ri (6189m). Situated in the Khumbu region Kyajo Ri is a semi technical peak, and our climb will be via the south-west ridge. The trek into this area via the Rolwaling is remote and rugged, with few trekkers on the trail. Once base camp is set we will attempt our climb under expert leadership. Participants on this expedition should have basic mountaineering skills, experience at altitude, and a good level of fitness. The 2015 expedition will be led by Soren Kruse Ledet, a renowned mountaineer and photographer who has nearly 20 years of Himalayan mountaineering experience guiding for World Expeditions including technical ascents like Ama Dablam (6856m) and Baruntse (7129m).

What's included

  • 30 breakfasts, 26 lunches and 26 dinners
  • World expeditions high altitude mountaineering leader
  • Airport transfers
  • Flight lukla to kathmandu valued at usd$145
  • 15kgs luggage allowance on kathmandu/lukla flight
  • Group medical kit
  • Safety equipment including high altitude chamber and satellite phone
  • Accommodation at the radisson hotel in kathmandu
  • The use of a world expeditions trek pack which includes a quality sleeping bag, down or fibre fill jacket and insulated mat (valued at over us$500)
  • Climbing pack including ice axe, crampons, harness and helmet
  • Souvenir world expeditions kit bag
  • Private transportation
  • All park entrance fees and trekking permits
  • Porters to carry all personal and group equipment
  • Porter's insurance
  • Sightseeing in kathmandu


Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu (1330m)
You will be met by your group leader and transferred to the hotel. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. A pre-trek briefing will be given around 5pm where arrangements will be made for the distribution of your kit bag, sleeping bag and down/fibre fill jacket. Evening drinks are held in the hotel for all World Expeditions clients arriving today. Drinks and snacks will generally be served from 6:30 pm until 7:15pm, and this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with your fellow group members before heading out to dinner.
Day 2 Gear Check & Half Day Sightseeing Tour. Rest of day at leisure.
This morning a group meeting with gear check will be held and at this time any necessary items will be hired or purchased. A group sightseeing tour has been arranged, taking in the key attractions in and around Kathmandu. If time does not permit, the tour can be taken after the expedition when there is a full day at leisure in Kathmandu. Notwithstanding, the hotel is centrally located and a short walk from shops, cafes and other features of interest.
Day 3 to 4 Drive Kathmandu to Singati (950m) 6-7hrs & Gongour Khola 5hrs.
We take 2 days to journey by road to the beginning of our trek. Singati lies in the mountainous district Dolakha of Janakpur Zone which is situated in the central Development Region of Nepal. Singati bazaar is 180 km from Kathmandu and about 30km east of the main Dolakha bazaar. From Singati we take a predominantly rough off road track for approx. 5 hours to Gongour Khola. Overnight camp.
Day 5 Commence trek to Simigoan (2050m) 4-5 hrs
We are among temperate forests that are home to ferns, mosses and small orchids, as well as rhesus and langur monkeys that are often seen jumping across the trees. Crossing the river just downstream from the confluence of the Rolwaling Khola, we make a steep two-hour ascent to the village of Simigoan. The village is rich with terraces of wheat, barley and millet; and people busily tending fields and livestock to make a living for themselves. It is a pleasant camp on a sharp ridge at the top of the village offering superb sunset and sunrise views of Gauri Shankar.
Day 6 To Dongar Khola (2800m) 7-8 hrs
A fairly solid day of walking up the Rolwaling Valley among forests of birch, rhododendron and conifers. We enjoy our first glimpses of the rapid glacial blue waters that we follow to the source, and the house-sized boulders that are scattered in its path. Camp is beside Rolwaling Khola, providing another opportunity for a refreshing wash or to watch the many small water birds darting in and about the river.
Day 7 to 8 To Beding (4000m) 7-8 hrs & rest day
Continuing on up through forest, we cross a swing bridge and trek high on the valley side before vast cliff faces that make up the northern valley wall. A wide gorge opens to our left and offers impressive views of the south face of Gauri Shankar for the first time. It is here that our Buddhist crew may build a cairn for good luck while we are in the mountains. As we approach the busy Sherpa village of Beding there are yak pastures at riverside and views of the fluted face of Chekigo at the head of the valley. The sturdy stone housing reflects the harsh winters the local people must endure.
Day 9 To Na (4200m) 5-6 hrs
Most residents of Rolwaling are Sherpa yak herders who are only able to grow potatoes and turnips. We have some appreciation of their hardy existence as we ascend the valley to the summer grazing settlement of Na. Trekking at an easy pace to ensure good acclimatisation, we make our way along an easy trail beside the river. The vegetation is mostly small shrubs, grasses and some juniper and birch. Our alpine views span out as we approach camp and we are fortunate to have them with us for the next three or four days before a change of scenery. Chobuje, Kang Nachugo, Chekigo, Bamongo, Dorje Phagmo to name a few. Na is the last substantial settlement before we reach Khumbu over the pass so we spend the afternoon in a relaxed environment familiarising ourselves with the climbing equipment and organising ourselves for the challenges ahead.
Day 10 Tso Rolpa camp (4500m) 5-6 hrs
Depending on snow conditions, the walking to our lake camp should be relatively easy and a half day's walk. The path is fairly level, curving to the east and leading towards the Trakarding Glacier. Two fine mountains feed the glacier at the head of the valley and may clearly be seen as we approach camp; Bigphera Go Shar (East) and Bigphera Go Nup (West). A ten minute walk from camp up the lateral moraine provides a spectacular view of Tso Rolpa; one of the largest glacial lakes in Nepal. Looking back we have a superb view of Kang Nachugo and a glimpse of Melungtse in Tibet.
Day 11 Trakarding Glacier, Beach Camp (4700m) 6-7 hrs
A full and challenging day as we ascend and cross the moraine toward the pass. The weather may be quite changeable and the rocks on the moraine are often loose necessitating concentration and keeping a steady pace as a group. Camp is usually made near the base of the Drolambau Glacier with stunning views to the south and east in particular. Note - Our itinerary is totally flexible while crossing the pass, and it may be influenced by many factors such as weather, glacier and snow conditions, and the progress of the group and crew/porters. Your leader will have complete control of setting the schedule in order to maintain safety for all members of the expedition and to achieve the trip objectives in the smoothest and most efficient manner.
Day 12 Noisy Knob Camp (5100m) 7-8 hrs
Short but challenging, the day is spent negotiating a route up through rubble and rock buttresses to a ledge, being a strategic position for ascending on to the Drolambau glacier. Some fixed ropes are usually required to ensure our route over the rock slabs is completely safe. Our camp is literally like an eagle’s nest, perched on a buttress from the rock slopes and an outlook across the entire valley below.
Day 13 Drolambu Glacier Camp (5400m) 4-5 hrs
Today is considered an approach day to the pass as we travel along the Drolambu Glacier, putting ourselves in a good position to negotiate the pass tomorrow.
Day 14 Cross Teshi Labsta Camp / Pachermo Base Camp (5700m) 4-5 hrs
Again, the weather, snow and glacier conditions will play a large part in how difficult the route will be. Leaving the Trakarding Glacier behind, we climb up steadily through several rock and ice gullies to reach the snout of the Drolambau Glacier where we are treated with a superb new vista of mountains. They extend the full length of the Drolambau. Few of these peaks have been climbed, nor do they have a formal name, and they are not open to foreigners. It is one of the least accessible parts of the Nepal Himalaya. Tengi Ragi Tau and Pharchamo tower to our right and mark the gap to the pass; both are captivating in their form with their sheer ice and rock faces. We need to make a long, steady trek along the rock/snow Drolambau glacier and then up crevassed snow slopes to the pass. There are several sections that usually require some scrambling on rock and ice, and if necessary we will fix a rope as a handrail. Our staff will work closely with team members to make a safe passage for all. The pass achieved, we enjoy the thrill of where we are, sandwiched between two fabulous regions and mountain ranges. It is also the last views we will have to the west before descending to Khumbu. Care must be taken as we make a route down firstly through snow and then mainly loose rock and scree to the moraine plateau below. At base camp, we are able to pull out all our climbing gear; sort and check it, and rehearse and revise techniques we will use on the climb. Your guide will coordinate these activities to ensure everyone is completely conversant in procedures and correctly equipped. It will only be necessary to take personal gear for the climb with you. Any group gear, such as food, fuel and group climbing equipment/ropes etc will be carried up by some of our porters and staff. The remainder of gear will be stored at base camp where some of our staff will also stay until our return.
Day 15 to 16 Ascent of Pachermo (6187m) & return to BC, contingency day
A very early start as our plan is to summit and return to base in one day. We make our summit push from Teshi Laptsa camp, ascending the the broad north ridge on main rope at relatively easy angle. There are a couple of small ice walls to negotiate before reaching the narrow ridge below the summit. Some pitches are likely to be fixed. Views across the Khumbu valley and back down the Rolwaling are spectacular. We return to our high camp on Teshi Laptsa and if time permits we descend further off the glacier down the valley.
Day 17 Thyangbo Camp (4250m) 5-6 hrs
Heading now in the direction of the Kumbhu we take a leisurely and pleasant days trekking. There is the possibility of reaching Thame today, which will allow us an extra day on Kyajo Ri. Your leader may decide to amend the itinerary as suits group movement.
Day 18 To Thame (3800m) 4-5 hrs
We descend the glacier and moraine to grassy meadows where yaks are often grazing and our first signs of civilisation for some days. Before us, the mountains of Thamserku, Kang Taiga and Ama Dablam form a spectacular horizon before us (eastward), whilst Teng Kangpoche and Kwangde Ri rise directly beside us to the south. It is only a short walk on to Thame, a large Sherpa village at the junction of the Bhote Khosi. Thame has the oldest and most respected gompa in Khumbu and is the birthplace of Tensing Norgay.
Day 19 Thesebu Khola Camp (4400m) 7-8 hrs
A long day to reach our base camp, we have now branched off from the main trekking trails and other trekking parties are rare in this area.
Day 20 to 26 Attempt on Kyajo Ri (6189m)
We have 7 days set aside for our attempt on Kyajo Ri. This is a semi technical peak, and we will spend some days setting camps and moving up and down before attempting the summit. Generally there are 2 camps on Kyajo Ri however this is exploratory style climbing so exactly where the camps will be pitched is unknown. We expect some pitches to be fixed and others to be climbed alpine style on main rope. The terrain steepens near the summit (which is quite small) with exposure on all sides. The panoramic views from the top are sensational with all the major peaks in the Everest National park clearly visible. We expect to spend a 2nd night in C2 after our summit and return to BC the following day.
Day 27 To Namche Bazaar (3440m) 7-8 hrs
Our program is somewhat flexible for the return journey to Lukla, in that we should have some spare time available to take a leisurely pace and camp where we please. Namche is the principal town in Khumbu, and it is an opportunity to explore the markets and watch the activity. Overnight at our private permanent campsite.
Day 28 To Lukla (2800m) 5-6 hrs
We descend the slopes of Namche to the Dudh Kosi joining the main trail to follow at riverside through numerous villages to Phakding. On crossing the bridge, we trek a short distance up and around, to the broad flat spur that Lukla lies upon. We set up camp on the green slopes at the lower end of the runway. The last night is always memorable for an end of trip celebration with all the crew and porters.
Day 29 Fly to Kathmandu (1330m)
This morning, fingers crossed, we fly by Twin Otter aircraft to Kathmandu and transfer to the Radisson Hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure to rest, relax or explore and shop in the town.
Day 30 Day at leisure in Kathmandu
If the half day sightseeing tour has not been taken, it may be planned for today. We will visit Pashupatinath and Boudhanath, returning to the hotel by 2pm. In the afternoon you may have time to explore Swayambhunath, Durbar Square, Patan or Bhaktapur, and the lesser-known towns that dot the valley on foot, by bicycle or trishaw. The area has an amazing range of fascinating highlights, whatever your interest. Excellent bookshops, extensive markets, and novelty and handicraft shops contrast with fantastic centres of cultural and spiritual significance - Kathmandu has more World Heritage sites than any other city in the world.
Day 31 Trip concludes Kathmandu
The trip concludes in Kathmandu after breakfast with a transfer to the airport.