Religious, Spiritual sights in Kathmandu
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Maju Deval
A pleasant half hour can easily be spent sitting on the steps of this Shiva temple. In fact the nine-stage ochre platform of the Maju Deval is probably the most popular meeting place in the city. From here you can watch the constant activity of fruit and vegetable hawkers, the comings and goings of taxis and rickshaws, and the flute and other souvenir sellers importuning tourists.
The large, triple-roofed temple has erotic carvings on its roof struts and offers great views over the square and across the roofs of the city. Marigold sellers set up shop on the ground level. The temple dates from 1690 and was built by the mother of Bhaktapur's King Bhupatindra Malla. The…
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B
Nara Devi Temple
Halfway between Chhetrapati and Durbar Sq, the Nara Devi Temple is dedicated to Kali, Shiva's destructive consort. It's also known as the Seto Kali (White Kali) Temple.
Although the temple, with its three tiers, golden roof and red and white guardian lions, is quite old, some of the decorations are clearly more recent additions. It is said that Kali's powers protected the temple from the 1934 earthquake, which destroyed so many other temples in the valley. A Malla king once stipulated that a dancing ceremony should be held for the goddess every 12 years, and dances are still performed on the small dance platform that is across the road from the temple.
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C
Ram Chandra Temple
Southwest of Jaisi Deval Temple, enter the courtyard of the Ram Chandra Temple, named after Ram, incarnation of Vishnu and the hero of the Hindu epic the Ramayana. This small temple is notable for the tiny erotic scenes on its roof struts; it looks as if the carver set out to illustrate 16 different positions, starting with the missionary position, and just about made it before running out of ideas (there's one particularly ambitious, back-bending position).
The north side of the courtyard is used as a cow stable, highlighting the wonderful mix of the sacred and profane in Nepal.
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D
Krishna Temple
The history of the octagonal Krishna Temple is well documented. It was built in 1648 by Pratap Malla, perhaps as a response to Siddhinarsingh's magnificent Krishna Temple in Patan. Inside there are images of Krishna and two goddesses, which, according to a Sanskrit inscription, are modelled on the king and his two wives. The temple also has a Newari inscription, but this neglects to mention the king's little act of vanity.
The temple is a favourite of sadhus (itinerant holy men) who pose (and expect to be paid) for photos here.
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E
Stone Inscription
On the outside of the palace wall, opposite the Vishnu Temple, is a long, low stone inscription to the goddess Kalika written in 15 languages, including one word of French. King Pratap Malla, renowned for his linguistic abilities, set up this inscription in 1664 and a Nepali legend relates that milk will flow from the spout in the middle if somebody is able to decipher all 15 languages!
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F
Mahendreshwar Temple
At the extreme northern end of the square, this temple dates from 1561, during the reign of Mahendra Malla. The temple was restored in 1963 and is dedicated to Shiva. A small image of Shiva's bull Nandi fronts the temple and at the northeastern corner there is an image of Kam Dev. The temple has a wide, two-level plinth and a spire topped by a golden umbrella.
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G
Mahakala Temple
On the eastern side of Kantipath, just north of New Rd, the Mahakala Temple was very badly damaged in the 1934 earthquake and is now of little architectural merit. If you can see inside the darkened shrine you may be able to make out the 1.5m-high figure of Mahakala, the 'Great Black One', a particularly ferocious form of Shiva.
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Mahavishnu Temple
Next door to Kotilingeshwar Mahadev Temple is the Mahavishnu Temple, which was damaged in the 1934 earthquake.
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Narayan (Vishnu) Temple
Narayan (Vishnu) Temple stands to the west side of the Shiva-Parvati Temple.
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