Durbar Square

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Lonely Planet review

Kathmandu's Durbar Sq was where the city's kings were once crowned and legitimised, and from where they ruled ( durbar means 'palace'). As such, the square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu's most spectacular legacy of traditional architecture, even thought the king no longer lives in the Hanuman Dhoka - the palace was moved north to Narayanhiti about a century ago.

It's easy to spend hours wandering around the square and watching the world go by from the terraced platforms of the towering Maju Deval; it's a wonderful way to get a feel for the city. Although most of the square dates from the 17th and 18th centuries (and many of the original buildings are much older), a great deal of damage was caused by the great earthquake of 1934 and many were rebuilt, not always in their original form. The entire square was designated a Unesco World Heritage Monument in 1979.

The Durbar Sq area is actually made up of three loosely linked squares. To the south is the open Basantapur Sq area, off which runs Freak St. The main Durbar Sq area, with its popular watch-the-world-go-by temples, is to the west. Running northeast is a second part of Durbar Sq, which contains the entrance to the Hanuman Dhoka and an assortment of temples. From this open area Makhan Tole, at one time the main road in Kathmandu and still the most interesting street to walk down, continues northeast.

A good place to start an exploration of the square is with what may well be the oldest building in the valley, the unprepossessing Kasthamandap.

The entry ticket to Durbar Sq is valid only for the date stamped. If you want a longer duration you need to go to the site office (4268969; S of Basantapur Sq; ; - ) on the south side of Basantapur Sq, to get a free visitor pass, which allows you access for as long as your visa is valid. You will need your passport and one photo and the process takes about two minutes. You generally need to show your ticket even if you are just transiting the square to New Rd or Freak St. There is a tourist toilet near the site office.