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Introducing Manakamana
From the tiny hamlet of Cheres, an Austrian- engineered cable car sweeps up an almost impossibly steep hillside to the ancient Manakamana Mandir, one of the most important temples in Nepal. Hindus believe that the goddess Bhagwati, an incarnation of Parvati, has the power to grant wishes, and newlyweds flock here to pray for male children. Pilgrims seal the deal by sacrificing a goat or pigeon in a gory pavilion behind the temple. There's even a dedicated carriage on the cable car for sacrificial goats (humans can book the return journey - goats get a one-way ticket).
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Built in the tiered pagoda style of the Kathmandu Valley, the temple dates back to the 17th century and the atmosphere is electric, particularly on feast days, when Manakamana almost vanishes under a sea of pilgrims, pigeons and sacrificial goats. For views of the Himalaya, continue uphill for about 3km past the small Shiva mandir to Lakhan Thapa Gufa, a sacred cave offering uninterrupted views of the mountains. Trekkers can continue west along the ridge, reaching Gorkha in about four hours.
Until 1998, the only way to get here was the arduous 18km trek from Abu Khaireni, 8km west of Mugling on the way to Pokhara. Visitor numbers have soared since the construction of the cable car, but foreigners are still a novelty and most things here exist for the benefit of pilgrims rather than tourists.
Last updated: May 1, 2009
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