Banepa

Introducing Banepa

Just outside the valley, the small town of Banepa is a busy crossroads, 29km from Kathmandu. It was an important stop on the trade route to Tibet and once even boasted diplomatic relations with China's Ming dynasty. Dhulikhel is 5km to the east, the temple town of Panauti is about 7km south and Nala is 3km to the northwest.

The pleasant squares and laneways in the older northwest section of Banepa are worth exploring. Right beside the turn-off to Chandeshwari is a pretty tank with bas-reliefs of gods at one end.

Only 1km or so northeast of Banepa is the Chandeshwari Temple. Legend has it that the people of this valley were once terrorised by a demon known as Chand. When Parvati, in her demon-slaying mode, got rid of the nuisance she took the name Chandeshwari, 'Slayer of Chand', and this temple was built in her honour.

The temple is entered through a doorway topped by a brilliantly coloured relief of Parvati disposing of the demon. The triple-roofed temple has roof struts showing the eight Ashta Matrikas and eight Bhairabs, but the temple's most notable feature is a huge and colourful fresco on the west wall of Bhairab at his destructive worst. The temple had been almost totally deconstructed in 2006 as part of its major renovation.

The ghats below the temple, beside the stream, are an auspicious place to die and people come here when their end is nigh.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009