Architectural, Cultural sights in The Mediterranean Coast & The Rif
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Grand Hôtel Villa de France
To the north of Place de France in Ville Nouvelle, down Rue de la Liberté, stands the closed and crumbling Grand Hôtel Villa de France. The French painter Eugène Delacroix stayed here in 1832, when it really was a grand hotel. His fellow artist and compatriot, Henri Matisse, followed in the early 1900s.
Of the many artists who have passed through Tangier, Matisse is one of the most famous. The French impressionist and leading light of the early 20th-century Fauvist movement called Tangier a 'painter's paradise'. His two visits to the city, in the spring of 1912 and again the following winter, had a profound influence on his work.
Inspired by the luminous North African…
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Dar Glaoui
Probably the most impressive residence in Fez, this 150-year-old palace comprises some 17 houses, stables, a mausoleum and cemetery, Quranic school, hammam, garages and two large gardens. It's privately owned by the El-Glaoui family of Marrakesh, but you can make an appointment to view it with Abdou (phone after midday).
Abdou, whose art is on display at the entrance, will show you the massive courtyard and four salons resplendent with carved, painted wood, carved plaster, Iraqi glass and carved and painted 'stalactites'. He'll also take you to the kitchen (large enough to serve the entire complex), which leads to the harem, with another courtyard, wall fountain and…
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Casa de Los Dragones
With its green triumphal arch (inscribed ‘a monument to coexistence’) and fountain, the Plaza de Los Reyes, borders the twin-towered yellow Iglesia deSan Francisco.But the real treasure lies across the street: the Casa de los Dragones a fantastic dream that has entered the real world. Recently restored to perfection, this former home is an extraordinary example of eclectic architecture, with Moorish arches, polished brick facades, Mansard roofs, fabulous balconies, and the pièce de résistance, four enormous dark dragons springing from the roof. The intricate anagram of the Cerni Gonzalez Brothers, the builders, is emblazoned on the corner. Tip your hat.
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Dar Ba Mohamed Ben Chergui
This magnificent place belonged to a previous pasha of Fez, Ba Mohamed Ben Chergui. There are two houses in the complex - one the main house for the men, the other the harem. The harem has a remarkable garden made of raised star-shaped flower beds. Inside, the hammam is worth a visit, and look out for the black-and-white photograph of the last pasha to live there. It's all decaying badly, though the complex is up for sale.
The caretaker is happy to show people around the ground floor of the main house, the hammam, and the harem garden. Tip him about around DH20.
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Riyad Mokri
This fabulous house, formerly owned by the powerful Mokri family, is now home to the Institute of Traditional Building Crafts. Students learn carpentry, wood painting, plaster sculpture and design. The house is surely an inspiration to them with its carved and painted doors, spectacular ceilings and wonderful views. The gardens are the best in Fez, full of fruit trees, jasmine, honeysuckle, rosemary, lavender and plumbago. Do tip the person who shows you round (about around DH20).
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Medersa Bou Inania
Opposite the Grande Mosquée, the Medersa Bou Inania is typical of the exquisite interior design that distinguishes Merenid monuments. It was completed in 1358 by Bou Inan, after whom a more lavish medersa in Fez is also named. This medersa is a good display of the classic Moroccan decorative styles – the zellij base, delicate stucco midriff and carved olivewood ceiling.
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Dar Adiyel
The wealthy Adiyel family were merchants who held top government posts, and this impressive 18th-century house belonged to Abdelkhaleq Adiyel, the governor of Fez. Restored in 1993 with funds from the Italian government, it is now a conservatory for Moroccan-Andalusian music. Students give concerts at 15:00 Monday to Thursday at no extra charge.
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Funduq Tastawniyine
This funduq housed merchants coming from Tetouan to do business in Fez. It still has some intricate mashrabiya on the upper balconies but, like all the funduqs, it's in bad repair. Today you'll find a carpet shop and a carpenter in residence.
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Sidi Hosni Palace
The Sidi Hosni Palace is where Barbara Hutton, the Woolworth heiress, lived and gave some of her grandest parties.
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1001 Nights
In the 1950s Tangier's kasbah was the setting for a legendary café called 1001 Nights, which was established by Brion Gysin, the artist who introduce the cut-up writing technique to William Burroughs. The café was famous for its house band of trance musicians - the Master Musicians of Jajouka - who later released a record produced by the Rolling Stones' Brian Jones. Long-closed for renovation, no one seems to know if it will ever reopen.
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