Sights in The Mediterranean Coast & The Rif
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Place el-Hedim
The heart of Meknès medina is Place el-Hedim , the large square facing Bab el-Mansour. Built by Moulay Ismail and originally used for royal announcements and public executions, it's a good place to sit and watch the world go by - kids playing football, hawkers selling miracle cures, and promenading families. The western side of the square is edged by an excellent covered produce market and catches the spill-over from the souqs to the north.
To the south, the impressive monumental gateway of Bab el-Mansour leads into Moulay Ismail's imperial city. The narrow streets of the old mellah are in the west of the medina.
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Grand Hôtel Villa de France
To the north of Place de France in Ville Nouvelle, down Rue de la Liberté, stands the closed and crumbling Grand Hôtel Villa de France. The French painter Eugène Delacroix stayed here in 1832, when it really was a grand hotel. His fellow artist and compatriot, Henri Matisse, followed in the early 1900s.
Of the many artists who have passed through Tangier, Matisse is one of the most famous. The French impressionist and leading light of the early 20th-century Fauvist movement called Tangier a 'painter's paradise'. His two visits to the city, in the spring of 1912 and again the following winter, had a profound influence on his work.
Inspired by the luminous North African l…
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Medina
Surrounded by three mosques and four modern minarets, not to mention the Royal Palace, Place Hassan II links the medina to the ville nouvelle. The square forms the heart of the old town and has traditionally served as a meeting place. It is ringed with small cafés that are prime spots for people-watching. The main entrance to the medina is Bab er-Rouah (Gate of the Winds), which leads off from the square's southeast corner.
The medina is an industrious, bustling place; it's quite unlike the great medinas further south, as the Spaniards had a hand in some of the building in the 19th century, and most of its inhabitants, from the 16th century on, were refugees from what ha…
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Peninsula
A walk around the peninsula reveals a bit more of the history and mystery that makes Ceuta what it is. The peninsula is topped by Monte Hacho, said by some to be the southern Pillar of Hercules (Jebel Musa, west of Ceuta, is the other contender; Gibraltar being the northern pillar). The summit is crowned by Fortaleza de Hacho, a fort first built by the Byzantines and added to since by the Moroccans, Portuguese and Spanish. Now occupied by the army, it is out of bounds.
On the northern slopes of Monte Hacho stands the yellow-and-white Ermita de San Antonio. This convent, originally built in the 17th century and reconstructed in the 1960s, is the venue for a large festival …
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Tangier American Legation Museum
Morocco was, surprisingly, the very first country to recognise the fledgling United States, and this was the first piece of American real estate abroad (look for the letter of thanks from George Washington to Sultan Moulay Suleyman). It is also the only US National Historic Landmark on foreign soil, and undoubtedly the only one that contains an American flag in the form of a Berber rug. But you don’t have to care about American history to visit the Legation. The elegant five-storey mansion holds an eclectic collection that, in classic Tangerine fashion, resists categorisation. An impressive display of paintings and prints is a dreamy trip through the Tangerine past throug…
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Attarine Souks
There's a cluster of souks just off the Talaa that are worth exploring. Coming from Bab Bou Jeloud, the first is Souk Triba, meaning 'square in shape', with a small orange tree and some cosmetic and electronic shops. Walk through to Souk Tallis where sacks for wool and wheat were sold. Now there's a carpet stall and several shops selling cloth for jellabas (cloak with a hood) - though many of the shops are now closed.
Continue through to the next souk, L'Hayek (;09:00-12:30 & 15:00-17:00 Sat-Thu), which refers to the white cloth used for women's clothes. These days there are jellabas, gandoras (men's embroidered jacket and pants) and jabadors (garment worn under a jellaba…
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Moulay Idriss Zawiya
Here is the heart of Fez: the mausoleum of the city's founder and the most venerated pilgrimage spot in Morocco. You can't enter unless you're a Muslim, but you can peek inside. It's worth walking around the building to see the beautiful carved and painted wood porches, the wall zellij and painted carved plaster at each doorway.
Near the main entrance are a fountain and a mzara (niche on the outside wall, richly decorated with zellij and plasterwork) where people in too much of a hurry to enter can pay their respects; there's another mzara on Talaa Kebira. The brass money-slot is for giving alms. Housing a mosque and ablution facilities, as well as the tomb of Moulay Idri…
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Sahrij Medersa
Taking its present name from the large rectangular pool or sahrij (basin) in its courtyard, this medersa dates from the 14th century. Built by the Merinid sultan Abou al-Hassan as a theological school attached to the Al-Andalous mosque, it features rich decoration including ornate and exquisite panels of mashrabiya (intricate carved wood), zellij and decorative plasterwork.
The building was designed to lead students from the entrance through the ornate screen door, past the sahrij and to the mihrab (niche indicating direction of Mecca) in the prayer room opposite the entrance. The Getty Foundation recently funded a conservation analysis of the building, which is in poor s…
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Moulay Hassan Square
Created towards the end of 19th century by order of the Alawite sultan Moulay al-Hassan I, this impressive square is surrounded by high pisé walls. The northern gate of the royal palace, known as Bab Makhzen, is here, as is the monumental Bab Sbaâ (the Lion Gate, aka Bab Dkaken), which features three solid arches flanked by two towers. Walk through Bab Sbaâ to see Bab al-Makina, the mechouar (assembly place) that is the main venue for the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music.
Fronting the mechouar is Dar Makina, a muscular European-influenced building dating from 1886. Designed by Italian architects and engineers, it was built to house the imperial arsenal. Behind the m…
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Dar Glaoui
Probably the most impressive residence in Fez, this 150-year-old palace comprises some 17 houses, stables, a mausoleum and cemetery, Quranic school, hammam, garages and two large gardens. It's privately owned by the El-Glaoui family of Marrakesh, but you can make an appointment to view it with Abdou (phone after midday).
Abdou, whose art is on display at the entrance, will show you the massive courtyard and four salons resplendent with carved, painted wood, carved plaster, Iraqi glass and carved and painted 'stalactites'. He'll also take you to the kitchen (large enough to serve the entire complex), which leads to the harem, with another courtyard, wall fountain and dilap…
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Kasbah Museum
This museum is perfectly sited in Dar el-Makhzen, the former sultan’s palace (where Portuguese and British governors also lived) and has recently been completely redone. The new focus is on the history of the area from prehistoric times to the 19th century, most of it presented in seven rooms around a central courtyard. Placards are in French and Arabic, but English brochures are available. Some highlights are an enormous flint tool about the size of a human head; a crushed wine container with scenes of a bacchanalian feast (there must be something in the local water supply…); an extraordinary floor mosaic from Volubilis; and a fascinating wall map of trade routes past an…
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Musée Marocain
This ethnographic museum off Calle Garnata is worth a visit, if only for a peek inside the bastion in the town wall, where it is housed. Cannons are still in place in the garden, and the terrace is sometimes open, offering incredible views of the Rif Mountains. Unfortunately, the museum is frequently closed outside the summer months.
The museum contains the requisite collection of traditional clothing, musical instruments, antique jewellery, carpets, arms and household implements. Keep an eye out for the gold embroidered Jewish wedding robes with gold thread, and the highly elaborate iron doorknockers and keyhole covers. All of the captions are in French and Arabic.
To fin…
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Musée de la Fondation Lorin
Housed in a former synagogue, the Musée de la Fondation Lorin is a gem of a place if you're interested in Tangier's 20th-century history. A large peaceful room houses an engaging collection of photographs, newspaper cuttings and posters of Tangier from 1890 to the 1960s.The Moroccan and foreign great and good are all well represented, from Mohammed V and Winston Churchill to Caid McLean, Emily Keane and the artist James McBeay. There are some fascinating street scenes, and an early brochure from the El Minzah Hotel, advertising its tennis courts and boar hunting.
The foundation also holds exhibitions and classes for disadvantaged children from the area. You can see a dis…
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Mosque
One of the two great mosques of Fez, this started life as a relatively modest structure in the 9th century, but became the congregational mosque of the quarter in the 10th century. Its minaret, a gift from the caliph of Córdoba, dates from 956 and is very similar to that of its sister mosque, the Kairaouine. The mosque was totally rebuilt by the Almohads between 1203 and 1207 and the magnificent monumental door on the northern façade dates from this time.
Designed and built by artisans from the Nasrid kingdom of Granada, the triple-entry wooden door features colourful zellij (mosaic tilework), ornate decorative plasterwork and a huge cornice of carved cedarwood. Though …
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beaches
The beaches of Tangier are decent for a seaside stroll or an afternoon aperitif, but not for swimming or surfing. The sand itself is clean enough for a city beach and still manages to attract beachcombers, football-playing kids and the odd courting couple. A stroll in the sea breeze is a good way to clear the air if Tangier's hustlers have been over-attentive. Football matches take place here at weekends and in the evening and the beach bars strung along the sand can be fun.
Besides bars, these places also have changing cabins, showers and deckchairs. The much-reduced European gay population still frequents certain bars; women will feel extremely exposed sunning themselve…
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Fondouk Americain
This animal hospital was established in 1927 at the instigation of Amy Bend Bishop, an American traveller who was appalled at the poor condition of the many working animals in the medina. A team headed by Canadian veterinarian Denis Frappier treats the city's animals free of charge, courtesy of funding from The Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.
In a country where many humans cannot easily access medical care, veterinary care is often viewed as a luxury, so the work of charities such as this one is extremely important, particularly as many locals rely on the their animals to transport goods, carry water and help with the harvesting of crops. T…
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Casa de Los Dragones
With its green triumphal arch (inscribed ‘a monument to coexistence’) and fountain, the Plaza de Los Reyes, borders the twin-towered yellow Iglesia deSan Francisco.But the real treasure lies across the street: the Casa de los Dragones a fantastic dream that has entered the real world. Recently restored to perfection, this former home is an extraordinary example of eclectic architecture, with Moorish arches, polished brick facades, Mansard roofs, fabulous balconies, and the pièce de résistance, four enormous dark dragons springing from the roof. The intricate anagram of the Cerni Gonzalez Brothers, the builders, is emblazoned on the corner. Tip your hat.
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Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
Opened in 1998, this museum is in a wonderfully restored funduq – a caravanserai for travelling merchants who stored and sold their goods below and took lodgings on the floors above. Centred on a courtyard, the rooms are given over to displays of traditional artefacts from craftsmen’s tools, chunky prayer beads and Berber locks, chests and musical instruments (compare the traditional wedding furniture with the modern glitzy chairs outside in Place an-Nejjarine). Everything is beautifully presented, although the stunning building gives the exhibits a run for their money. The rooftop café has great views over the medina. Photography is forbidden.
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Kairaouine Mosque & University
The largest mosque in Africa, the Kairaouine claims to be the oldest university in the world. A wide variety of subjects was taught here, which is why Fez became such a centre of learning, culture and religious tolerance. The mosque is open to Muslims only.
The complex has grown since its founding in 859 and has many beautiful elements such as the pavilions, mihrab and decorative plasterwork, cedarwood and zellij reminiscent of the Alhambra in Spain. It has a 10th-century square minaret with cupola. The mosque was expanded to its current size under the Almoravids in the 12th century. Surrounding it are several medersas.
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Museo de la Legión
This intriguing museum is dedicated to and run by the Spanish Legion, an army unit set up in 1920 that played a pivotal role in Franco’s republican army. Loaded to the gills with memorabilia, weaponry and uniforms, not to mention glory, pomp and circumstance, it is a fascinating glimpse into the military culture that shaped the north, from the imperious statue of Franco, to the explanation of how the legion’s intrepid founder, Millan Astray, lost his right eye, to the history of the legion in cinema. They even check your passport at the door. Alternatively, you can enlist at http://lalegion.es. There are guided tours in English.
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Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
Diagonally opposite the Koubbat as-Sufara’ is the resting place of the sultan who made Meknès his capital in the 17th century. Moulay Ismail’s stature as one of Morocco’s greatest rulers means that non-Muslim visitors are welcomed into the sanctuary. Entry is through a series of austere, peaceful courtyards meant to induce a quiet and humble attitude among visitors, an aim that’s not always successful in the face of a busload of tourists. The tomb hall is a lavish contrast and showcase of the best of Moroccan craftsmanship. Photography is permitted, but non-Muslims may not approach the tomb itself.
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Dar Jamaï Museum
Since 1920 the palace Dar Jamaï has housed the Administration des Beaux Arts and one of Morocco’s best museum. Exhibits include traditional ceramics, jewellery, rugs and some fantastic textiles and embroidery. Look out for the brocaded saddles, and some exquisite examples of Meknasi needlework (including some extravagant gold and silver kaftans). The koubba (domed sanctuary) upstairs is furnished as a traditional salon complete with luxurious rugs and cushions. The museum also has a fine collection of antique carpets, representing various styles from different regions of Morocco.
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Place Lalla Aouda
South of Bab el-Mansour lies the mechouar (parade ground), now known as Place Lalla Aouda , where Moulay Ismail inspected his famed Black Guard. After bringing 16,000 slaves from sub-Saharan Africa, Moulay Ismail guaranteed the continued existence of his elite units by providing the soldiers with women and raising their offspring for service in the guard. By the time of his death, the Black Guard had expanded tenfold.
Its successes were many, ranging from quelling internal rebellions, to chasing European powers out of northern Morocco, to disposing of the Ottoman Turk threat from Algeria.
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Medina
Chefchaouen's medina is one of the loveliest in Morocco. Small and uncrowded, it's easy to explore, with enough winding paths to keep you diverted, but compact enough that you'll never quite get lost. Most of the buildings are painted a blinding blue-white, giving the whole place a clean, fresh look, while the terracotta pantiles on many buildings added an Andalucian flavour.
Centred on Plaza Uta el-Hammam, the medina occupies the eastern half of the town centre, with its main entrance on its western side at Bab el-Ain. The majority of hotels and restaurants are found here.
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Dar Ba Mohamed Ben Chergui
This magnificent place belonged to a previous pasha of Fez, Ba Mohamed Ben Chergui. There are two houses in the complex - one the main house for the men, the other the harem. The harem has a remarkable garden made of raised star-shaped flower beds. Inside, the hammam is worth a visit, and look out for the black-and-white photograph of the last pasha to live there. It's all decaying badly, though the complex is up for sale.
The caretaker is happy to show people around the ground floor of the main house, the hammam, and the harem garden. Tip him about around DH20.
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