Things to do in Melilla
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Las Cuevas del Conventico
The Calle de la Concepción continues up to the baroque Iglesia de la Concepción and, just below it, the entrance to Las Cuevas del Conventico. A short film and guided tour (both in Spanish) detail the history of the caves and tunnels that lead to the cliff face. The Phoenicians first excavated the tunnels; later occupiers took turns enlarging them and they now extend over three levels. They are meticulously maintained and well lit, which sadly eliminates much of their mystery.
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Palacio de la Asamblea
Construction of the new part of town, west of the fortress, began at the end of the 19th century. Laid out by Gaudí-disciple Don Enrique Nieto, Melilla is considered by some to be Spain's 'second modernist city', after Barcelona. The highlight is Plaza de España, with the lovely facade of the Palacio de la Asamblea facing Parque Hernández.
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Museo de Arqueología e Historia de Melilla
The small Museo de Arqueología e Historia de Melilla has a collection of historical and architectural drawings, Phoenician and Roman ceramics and coins, and numerous models and archaeological finds. The terrace alone is worth visiting for its fantastic views overlooking the city.
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Melilla la Vieja
Perched over the Mediterranean, Melilla la Vieja is a prime example of the fortress strongholds that the Portuguese and (in this case) the Spaniards built along the Moroccan littoral during the 16th and 17th centuries. Much of it has been painstakingly restored in recent years.
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Museo Militar
Near the Iglesia de la Concepción, the Museo Militar is perched high over the Mediterranean. Its two small rooms are stuffed full of exhibits from the Spanish military in Melilla: regimental flags, medals, a motley collection of weapons and the obligatory bust of Franco.
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Statue Grande Libre
Melilla's role in modern Spanish history isn't forgotten. The Statue Grande Libre marks 7 July 1936, when Franco began the campaign against the government in Madrid. With a soldier and lion backed by a Fascist eagle, it feels like a throwback to another, uncomfortable age.
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Cafetería Nuevo California
This modern cafeteria with a small outdoor terrace has a wide-ranging menu and friendly waiters eager to help your clumsy Spanish along. The sandwiches and pasta are particularly good, all washed down with a cold cerveza (beer).
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Café Central
Next to the park, this is a busy breakfast spot, with great coffee, pastries and cooked items. The inside can sometimes be a bit smoky, but there's a seating area outside. Clocks set to various time zones remind you of the hour at home.
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El Galeón
With its long wooden bar and brass fixtures, the classy bar inside the Melilla Puerto follows the hotel's nautical theme. Don't dress too scruffily here, but apart from that it's a relaxed place to enjoy tapas and a few drinks.
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La Onubense
With its rough-hewn wood furniture and unpolished décor, this place looks like the quintessential tapas bar. The house speciality is spicy bollito de Pringá (meatball) and other classic tapas delicacies.
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Aljibes de las Peñuelas
Inside the Melilla la Vieja is an enclosed square, in the north wall of which is a pair of 15th-century water cisterns, Aljibes de las Peñuelas. The price of entry also allows access to Las Cuevas del Conventico.
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Antony Pizza Factory
Less factory, rather a cosy brasserie, its staff still work hard to dish out heavily loaded pizzas and some rich pasta sauces. Popular with Melilla's young, it has a sunken snug area for quiet dining.
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Café Rossy
Another reliable place to grab a quick eat or while away an hour with a book and a coffee. The bocadillos are a perfect lunchtime snack - enjoy the ham ones now before you head into Morocco.
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La Pérgola
This café-bar on the pleasure-yacht harbour is an exceedingly pleasant place for a drink in the late afternoon, particularly on its wide sunny terrace on the waterfront.
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Supersol
There are plenty of small grocery shops in the streets around Parque Hernández. For the complete supermarket experience, go to Supersol on the road to the frontier.
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La Cervecería
Classier than the Onubense across the street, La Cervecería is decorated in Gaudíesque fashion by the Melillan architect Carlos Baeza.
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Café Toga
This small bar in the lee of a grand church dishes out cañas, tapas and sandwiches throughout the day.
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Puerta de la Marina
The main entrance to the Melilla la Vieja fortress is Puerta de la Marina, fronted by a statue of Franco.
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