Souqs

While the Souqs of Meknès aren't as extensive as those of Fès or Marrakesh, the lack of hassle makes them a great place to potter around looking for souvenirs.

The easiest route into the souqs is through the arch to the left of the Dar Jamaï Museum on the north side of Place el-Hedim. Plunge in and head northwards, and you will quickly find yourself amid souvenir stalls and carpet shops.

As you walk, notice the qissariat (covered markets) off to either side. A couple of these are devoted to textiles and carpets, which are noisily auctioned off on Sunday mornings. Okchen Market, in the last qissaria on the left before you reach the T-junction with Rue Najjarine, specialises in fine embroidery. Turn left on Rue Najjarine, passing stalls with babouches (leather slippers) in multicoloured rows. Just before you hit Rue Sekkakine, look out on the left for Qissariat ad-Dahab, the jewellery souq.

Exit the medina via Bab Berrima and follow the lane north, hugging the outside of the city wall. You'll pass a colourful souq, selling spices, herbs and nuts, and a lively flea market. On the other side of the lane, workshops turn out gigantic bakers' 'paddles', used for scooping bread out of the ovens.

Beyond them you'll find workers busily stuffing mattresses. A right turn by the mattress stuffers leads back into the medina via Bab el-Jedid, the arch that shelters a couple of musical instrument shops. Turning left up Rue el-Hanaya, through a small fruit and vegetable market, you will eventually arrive at the Berdaine Mosque and, just beyond it, the city's northernmost gate, Bab Berdaine. From here you can wend your way back down Rue Zaouia Nasseria (which becomes Rue Souika), passing tailors and the odd carpet showroom. With luck you'll emerge near the Grande Mosquée.