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Moulay Idriss Mzara
This ancient niche in the wall is covered in zellij and surrounded by carved plaster. Rather than go all the way down to Moulay Idriss Zawiya, devotees can venerate their saint here.
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Moulay Idriss Zawiya
Here is the heart of Fez: the mausoleum of the city's founder and the most venerated pilgrimage spot in Morocco. You can't enter unless you're a Muslim, but you can peek inside. It's worth walking around the building to see the beautiful carved and painted wood porches, the wall zellij and painted carved plaster at each doorway.
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Nejjarine Square
This interesting square is dominated by the beautifully restored Nejjarine Wood Museum housed in an 18th-century funduq . There's also a superbly decorated wall fountain. Pause awhile in a café or browse the shops before venturing into the carpenters' souk with its amazing array of glitzy wedding chairs.
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Orientalist Art Gallery
This small commercial gallery is the best place to view the work of contemporary Fez-based artists. The only other option in town is the art gallery in the Délégation de la Culture on Ave Moulay Youssef, close to the Pl de la Résistance, which hosts occasional exhibitions.
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Qbieb Naqes
This little street is full of food stands. The qbieb (water conduit) itself is the small arched fountain at this crossroads in the middle of Sagha. Undecorated and seemingly insignificant, it was the main water conduit for this area and therefore an important element of daily life.
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Riyad Mokri
This fabulous house, formerly owned by the powerful Mokri family, is now home to the Institute of Traditional Building Crafts. Students learn carpentry, wood painting, plaster sculpture and design. The house is surely an inspiration to them with its carved and painted doors, spectacular ceilings and wonderful views. The gardens are the best in Fez, full of fruit trees, jasmine, honeysuckle, rosemary, lavender and plumbago. Do tip the person who shows you round (about around DH20 ).
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Sagha Square
This square contains the 18th century Sagha Funduq with magnificent mashrabiya panels. The scales in the courtyard were for weighing fleeces; cotton and wool are still sold here. Near the entrance is a fountain with a tiled koubba (dome-shaped roof). There's also the fascinating Café Ba Bouchta opposite the funduq .
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Sahrij Medersa
Taking its present name from the large rectangular pool or sahrij (basin) in its courtyard, this medersa dates from the 14th century. Built by the Merinid sultan Abou al-Hassan as a theological school attached to the Al-Andalous mosque, it features rich decoration including ornate and exquisite panels of mashrabiya (intricate carved wood), zellij and decorative plasterwork.
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Sbaiyine Medersa
Once called the Medersa al-Soghra (Small Medersa) to distinguish it from the neighbouring Sahrij Medersa (Big Medersa), this building dates from the 14th century and is notable for the decorated marble fountain that graces its interior courtyard. Unfortunately, the building is in a deplorable state of repair and is not open to the public.
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Seffarine Hammam
There are separate hammams here for men and women, with beautifully domed ceilings. It costs around DH40 , including a tip. The Venice Institute for Urban Sustainability has chosen one hammam to restore in cities such as Tunis, Damascus and Gaza - and this one in Fez.
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Seffarine Medersa
Built in 1270 and still in use today, this is the oldest of the Merinid medersas in Fez. The prayer hall contains what's thought to be the oldest mihrab in the city. It has a minaret with colourful zellij . There's a rectangular pool in the central courtyard.
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Seffarine Square
Here's a delightful square to rest awhile under the plane tree and soak up the atmosphere of the medina. On one side lies the Kairaouine Library; on the other, the Seffarine Medersa, and all around are coppersmiths hammering their wares into shape: huge cauldrons, stills for making rosewater, kettles, pots and samovars.
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Sidi Ahmed Tijani Zawiya
The resting place of the founder of the Tariqa Tijaniya, a Sufi brotherhood, this exquisite zawiya and mosque is of great importance to devotees from all over North and West Africa, who visit it on their way to Mecca. It's greatly revered in Fez, second only to the Moulay Idriss Zawiya.
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Sidi Bounafa Mausoleum
This mausoleum is said to be a favourite of the city's prostitutes, who make pilgrimages here to ask the saint for help when leaving the world's oldest profession.
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Water Clock
Opposite the Bou Inania Medersa entrance, there are 12 windows above 13 carved beams sticking out of the wall. It's said brass bowls were set on the beams and that water flowed into them, making them chime out the hours of prayer. No-one knows how it worked; its secret lies buried with the magician who invented it.
