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Abou Bakr Ibn Arabi Mausoleum
Abou Bakr ibn Arabi arrived in Fez from Seville in the 11th century. An ala (learned man) and an imam, he was on a pilgrimage to meet all of the renowned ulama (Islamic scholars) of his day. So taken was he with the learned atmosphere of Fez that he returned here after his trip. When he died, the Fassis built this mausoleum with its green-tiled dome to honour his memory. You'll find it just outside the medina ramparts, to the east of Bab Sagma.
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Ain Khaïl Mosque
Where can a camel pass under a minaret? If you know the answer to this question, you're a true Fassi. This 11th-century mosque has an octagonal minaret built over the street. The Sufi philosopher Ibn el-Arabi (1165-1240) is said to have seen a mystical vision of intense light here. A few years ago, a badly degraded house collapsed into the prayer-hall, killing 12 men. The mosque is not in use and funding has been applied for from the EU's Euromed Heritage Programme to restore it.
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Al-Oued Mosque
The rectangular courtyard of this 18th-century mosque is home to an assortment of fruit trees, and once had a stretch of the Masmouda River flowing through it (this was covered last century). The mosque itself, which is also known as the Lranja Mosque, was constructed over the ruins of the Merinid-era Al-Oued Medersa (River Medersa).
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Attarine Gates
There are massive wooden gates at the bottom of Talaa Kebira opposite the entrance to the Attarine Medersa. There used to be gates within the medina closing off every neighbourhood; these are the only intact ones left that are still closed at night, at around .
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Attarine Medersa
Closed for extensive renovation at the time of writing but due to open early in 2008 ( ensha'llah , or God Willing), this medersa at the bottom of Talaa Kebira was built between 1323 and 1325. A favourite of students coming to study in Fez, it has unique square pillars around a zellij- floored courtyard with a marble fountain and a prayer-hall with a carved-wood dome, as well as Iraqi glass behind carved-plaster latticework 'windows'.
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Bab Bou Jeloud
Everyone comes through this main gate at some point during their stay as it leads to a clutch of restaurants and the main shopping streets. Decorated with blue zellij on the outside and green on the inside, it's relatively young - only 200 years old. The Tourist Police Brigade has its headquarters here.
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Bab Fettouh
After the death of Prince Ibn Ateya Senhai in the 11th century, his two sons divided responsibility for ruling the city. Fettouh, the eldest, who ruled the Al-Andalous quarter, erected this handsome gate and named it after himself. It was rebuilt by the Alawites in the 18th century. Opposite the gate is the Bab Fettouh Cemetery
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Bab Guissa
This gate was built in the 12th century. A bird market is held here on Friday mornings, outside the walls. Just inside the gate is a square with a large fountain, the Bab Guissa mosque and the medersa which is still in use today. The air is scented with cedarwood from the large number of carpentry workshops in the area.
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Bab Semmarine
This 13th-century gateway was originally called Uyune Sanhaja (the Springs of Sanhaja) in honour of an important Moroccan Berber tribe. Built to house the storage silos of the Merenid city, it was modified in the 20th century to facilitate traffic and people movement. On its eastern side is one of the city's main produce souks.
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Baghdadi Square
The local tourism authorities like to spruik this square as being the local equivalent of Marrakesh's Djemaa el-Fna. This is wishful thinking on their part, but the square is worthy of an early evening wander during festival periods, when it's colonised by street entertainers and hawkers selling traditional remedies.
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Batha
It's real name is Pl de l'Independence but it's generally called 'Batha' and is one of the main entrances to the medina, with parking and taxis. On the square are Café Firdaous and La Maison Bleue , as well as Dar Mekaour, where Morocco's Independence Manifesto was signed in 1944.
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Bou Inania Medersa
Built between 1350 and 1356, this medersa is one of the most important sites in Fez. It was restored a few years ago. Inside the massive carved brass doors is a restful marble-floored space with central fountain, carved cedarwood mashrabiya panels screening the students' cells, very fine zellij and intricately carved plaster. Look out for the mihrab (niche indicating direction of Mecca) with its beautiful ceiling and the onyx marble columns.
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Boulevard Boukhsissat
The picturesque buildings that line this street date from the period of the French Mandate. Cream-coloured and with brown-painted balconies, they were designed to provide housing on the 1st floor and shops on the ground floor, an arrangement that continues to this day.
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Chrabliyine Mosque
This must be the prettiest minaret in town. Around the mosque there's a fountain, a medersa with good mashrabiya (intricate carved wood) panels at street level and windows above the street, and an ablution facility. Chrabliyine means 'the street of the slipper-makers'.
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Demnati Fountain & Dar Dmana
This street opens out into a square with an ancient mulberry tree. There's an exceptionally tall traditional house, Dar Dmana, with a massive studded door, and the Demnati fountain. Wait a while, and you might see magnificent stallions being washed, their manes and tails stained red with henna. Also here is an antique shop worth a browse, Brocante Bab Touta .
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Diwane Mosque
It's worth taking a look at this mosque (even though you can't go inside unless you're a Muslim). The door and its canopy are beautiful examples of carved, painted wood, and there's carved plaster too.
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El-Makoudi Mosque
This mosque is in the formerly Jewish area of Lihoudi , and is one of the few that doesn't have a minaret. The mosque's fountain is at the top of the street, and is particularly beautiful with carved medluk (fine sand-and-lime coating) and intricate zellij .
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Ibn Danan Synagogue
An enthusiastic caretaker will shepherd you through this unassuming but pretty synagogue, which is one of the oldest and most important in North Africa. Built and owned by a prominent Moroccan Jewish family in the mid-17th century, it was renovated to its present form at the end of the 19th century.
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Jewish Cemetery & Em Habanim Synagogue
Generations of Fassi Jews are buried in this impeccably maintained cemetery, off Bab Lamar. Regimented lines of humble whitewashed tombs bearing the venerable names of Cohen, Danan, Hassarfati and Gabay parade down the hill toward the main road. In the centre, recognisable by its green urns, is the tomb of the 19th-century martyr Solica, a 17-year-old girl who refused to convert to Islam or accept the advances of the Governor of Tangier and had her throat slit as a result.
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Kairaouine Mosque & University
The largest mosque in Africa, the Kairaouine claims to be the oldest university in the world. A wide variety of subjects was taught here, which is why Fez became such a centre of learning, culture and religious tolerance. Currently undergoing restoration, the mosque should have re-opened (to Muslims only) early in 2008.
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L'kbir Mosque
Fez el-Djid's 'Grand Mosque' was built in the 13th century by the Merenid sultan Moulay Abou Youseef Yacoub and was subsequently used as a mausoleum for the sultans Abou Said and Abou Inan. Its architect was clearly influenced by the Kairaouine - peek into the courtyard to admire the lovely green tiles and delicate decorative plasterwork.
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Mosque
One of the two great mosques of Fez, this started life as a relatively modest structure in the 9th century, but became the congregational mosque of the quarter in the 10th century. Its minaret, a gift from the caliph of Córdoba, dates from 956 and is very similar to that of its sister mosque, the Kairaouine. The mosque was totally rebuilt by the Almohads between 1203 and 1207 and the magnificent monumental door on the northern façade dates from this time.
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Moulay Abdallah Mausoleum
This 17th-century mosque and medersa (theological college) was converted into a mausoleum in the 18th century and is the resting place of four sultans of the reigning Alawite dynasty: Moulay Abdallah, Moulay Youssef, Moulay Hafid and Moulay Abdelaziz. Non-Muslims cannot enter.
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Moulay Hassan Square
Created towards the end of 19th century by order of the Alawite sultan Moulay al-Hassan I, this impressive square is surrounded by high pisé walls. The northern gate of the royal palace, known as Bab Makhzen, is here, as is the monumental Bab Sbaâ (the Lion Gate, aka Bab Dkaken), which features three solid arches flanked by two towers. Walk through Bab Sbaâ to see Bab al-Makina, the mechouar (assembly place) that is the main venue for the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music.
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Moulay Idriss Mzara
This ancient niche in the wall is covered in zellij and surrounded by carved plaster. Rather than go all the way down to Moulay Idriss Zawiya, devotees can venerate their saint here.
