House shopping in Fès
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Antiquité Nejjarine
Samir Bousfiha's shop bulges with antiques - large pieces of furniture, doors and even whole painted ceilings, as well as smaller items like wooden writing boards at around DH1000 for an original, or around DH600 for a copy. For more portable souvenirs, check out the wide range of silver jewellery: thick bangles, old fibulas (brooches) and necklaces. Old silver is Dh15 per gram.
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Coin Berbere
A trio of shops can be found here at the junction of Talaa Kebira and Derb el-Horra, all owned by the Bouzidi-Idrissi family. The largest stocks seriously good antique ceramics, embroidery, doors and furniture. Across the street is a carpet shop with antique and new carpets made by various Berber tribes, and next door to that is good jewellery, mostly silver and coral.
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Au Petit Bazar Du Bon Acceuil
This treasure-house is worth a visit. It stocks old and modern jewellery including some seriously good Berber pieces such as fibulas and pendants, old carpets and traditional clothing, objets d'art, embroidery, ceramics, glassware and metalware. Upstairs are good pieces of wooden furniture. Women by themselves may not feel comfortable shopping here.
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Chez Boutbi Nadia
Nadia is one of the few women shopkeepers in the medina. Her small shop sells traditional Fassi ceramics at excellent prices (tiny tajines for salt and pepper around DH15; plates from around DH35) and it's the best place for that tajine so you can cook Moroccan-style at home (tajine for three servings Dh40, for six servings Dh50).
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Au Coin Du Bois
Worth visiting if only to see a beautiful example of a Fassi house, this shop stocks large pieces of furniture which they'll arrange to ship home for you. There are tables, doors and windows, cupboards and chairs - some antique and some not. An old carved door will set you back some around DH4500, a carved and painted box Dh1700.
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L'art Traditionnel
Pierced brass, sometimes with opaque or coloured Iraqi glass, is used for all the lanterns here: an ostrich-egg size costs around DH900, a small lantern around DH1400 and one with glass inserts around DH1200. There are also carved wooden chests, tables and old doors. The shop is contracted to Medina Express for easy shipping.
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Galerie Nejarine
Ahmed specialises in reproductions of old ceramics, so while a 40-year-old bowl in his shop costs around DH650, the reproductions are around DH250. He also has small bowls, resin and bronze candleholders and two-seater rectangular pouffes. He's contracted to Medina Express so shipping things home is safe and easy.
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Brassware Shop
There are several small metalwork shops in this area. Ali Benjelloun has some good Hand of Fatima doorknockers in the shape of a hand, as well as a flat stylised version. There's another shop (54 Talaa Kebira) that has shiny silver-plated teapots and orange flower water shakers and incense burners.
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Maison Bleue
It's worth visiting this shop just to see the magnificent small house it's in, complete with balconies, painted ceilings and intricate plasterwork, occupied by the family who run the place. There's a veritable treasure trove of plates, dishes, bowls and more in the traditional designs of Fez.
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Tissage Berbere
Koko's shop is chock full of lamps, carpets, blankets and hendiras. His speciality is making pouffes to order out of the softest goatskin (non-smelly) with your choice of kilim inserts - old or new. He also has some ready-made, and at around DH350 for the large ones, they're a steal.
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Chez La Famille Berbère
Khalid and Zouhaïr pride themselves on their metalwork lamps; a wall sconce in wrought iron and copper is around DH60. They also have a wide range of ceramics, small pieces of wooden furniture (a collapsible carved cedarwood table inlaid with brass is around DH600), and decorated tea glasses.
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Kelim Berber
Here's a large shop, of Talaa Kebira, with a wide range of old and new carpets, hendiras and cushion covers. A thick, creamy new Beni Ouaraine carpet measuring 3m x 2m costs around DH1500, whereas an old one is around DH6000. They also have a range of cushion covers.
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Ech Chahed Youssef
Youssef's small shop stocks ceramics and some lamps. An old platter costs around DH350 and a new reproduction around DH200. Cheer up your bathroom with a Fassi-style painted ceramic basin at around DH300. Candlesticks are Dh50. He also makes to order.
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Curiosites Berberes
Here's a wide range of kilims and carpets from various Berber tribes. A 1.60m x 1.20m rug woven from aloe silk in jewel-like colours is around DH420 and a large hendira (traditional woven cloak) with thick loops on the back is around DH4000.
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Basket Shop
Ba Hamid sells round wooden sieves starting at around DH7 and placemats at around DH10. He has a wide range of baskets including conical-lidded breadbaskets, and this is the place to get your couscoussier (pot in which couscous is steamed).
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Maison Des Brodeuses Fassies
You can watch women using embroidery hoops here, working on a good-quality cotton-linen mix. Mostly it's traditional Fassi blue embroidery on white cloth. Placemats cost from around DH100 each, depending on the amount of work involved.
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L'art Bleu
A glorious profusion of colour greets you in this shop of silk fabrics made from aloe cactus. There are scarves and bed covers. Ali will make them to order on the looms in the shop with one day's notice; just choose your colours.
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Dar Tazi
This large building houses a guesthouse, a restaurant and a ground-floor carpet shop. Drinking mint tea is de rigueur while you peruse the rugs of every colour and quality that will be theatrically unfurled at your feet.
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Brocante Bab Touta
Squeeze into Abderrahim's tiny shop crammed with old teapots, zany photos, fabrics, carpets and larger pieces of furniture. It's worth a browse in this delightful small square with its fountain and ancient mulberry tree.
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Maison Sahara
Berber and Riffian pots abound in this shop, some ancient and some copies. An old pot might cost around DH250 while a copy is about around DH130. There are also old wedding chests from the Rif in northwest Morocco.
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Allal Art Gallery
This Aladdin's cave stocks a wide range of pierced-metal lamps and light fittings, wooden doors and windows, mashrabiya panels and jewellery.
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Abdallah Ouazzani Ibrahimi
There are two rooms in this shop; one sells the usual range of carpets, while the other has interesting old hand-embroidered caftans and jellabas.
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Bucket Maker
Sidi Tazi is the last bucket-maker in Fez and his wares are sought-after all over the country. The cedarwood buckets are for use in the hammam.
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