Shopping in Fès
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Rue Sekkakine
For centuries, trading in gold or silver was forbidden to Muslims. This was because working precious metals to be sold at higher prices than their base value was considered usury, something forbidden under Islamic law. Jews faced no such prohibitions, though; when members of Fez's Jewish community moved into the Mellah in the 14th century they set up goldsmithing businesses in Rue Sekkakine.
Originally patronised by the palace, these days the shops are run by Muslims and cater to the locals' penchant for bling, specialising in jewellery made from garish yellow gold and sparkly stones of every description.
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Parfumerie Medina
The knowledgeable owner Rachid Ouedrhiri will explain all about the perfumes, cosmetics and essential oils he stocks in his small stall in the Henna Souk, off Talaa Kebira and if you've always hankered after arabesques swirling of henna, here's the ideal place. The henna artist applies the mixture while you relax under the plane tree in the Henna Souk, off Talaa Kebira. She charges around DH30 for a finger-and-wrist design, or around DH200 for the full treatment of hands, forearms and feet.
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Kissariat
The kissariat (covered markets) at the bottom of Talaa Kebira have dozens of tiny shops selling babouches in every colour, fabric and design. Here, you can get yourself a top-quality, hand-stitched pair of leather babouches for around DH120. Only men wear yellow or white. Venture further into the kissariat to discover a wealth of bright yellow-gold wedding jewellery and superb fabrics.
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Neq Broderie
Walk right to the end of this grubby lane, off Talaa Kebira near the Bou Inania Medersa, and into a modern-looking house (signposted from Talaa Kebira). It's worth the effort: here is handcrafted traditional Fassi embroidery (watch the women at work) on excellent quality cotton-linen mix. Placemats cost around DH100 to around DH200; a tablecloth and six napkins from Dh450; napkins are Dh70 each.
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Antiquité Nejjarine
Samir Bousfiha's shop bulges with antiques - large pieces of furniture, doors and even whole painted ceilings, as well as smaller items like wooden writing boards at around DH1000 for an original, or around DH600 for a copy. For more portable souvenirs, check out the wide range of silver jewellery: thick bangles, old fibulas (brooches) and necklaces. Old silver is Dh15 per gram.
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Coin Berbere
A trio of shops can be found here at the junction of Talaa Kebira and Derb el-Horra, all owned by the Bouzidi-Idrissi family. The largest stocks seriously good antique ceramics, embroidery, doors and furniture. Across the street is a carpet shop with antique and new carpets made by various Berber tribes, and next door to that is good jewellery, mostly silver and coral.
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Au Petit Bazar Du Bon Acceuil
This treasure-house is worth a visit. It stocks old and modern jewellery including some seriously good Berber pieces such as fibulas and pendants, old carpets and traditional clothing, objets d'art, embroidery, ceramics, glassware and metalware. Upstairs are good pieces of wooden furniture. Women by themselves may not feel comfortable shopping here.
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Herboristerie Bou Inania
This large shop sells natural soaps, vegetable oils such as argan and olive, essential oils, musk perfume, ghassoul (clay that comes in chips or powder form) which is a natural soap and exfoliant excellent for skin and hair, and incense. There's also a wide range of traditional medicines and spices. It's off Talaa Kebira, near the Bou Inania Medersa.
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Spice Shop
Hassan Graoui and his son Khalid are justly proud of their emporium of spices. This is an excellent place to stock up on ras el-hanoot (shopkeeper's spice mixture) that Hassan grinds himself, from his own secret blend of cinnamon, mace flowers, star anise, turmeric, nutmeg, black pepper, coriander and more. Perfect for Moroccan cooking.
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Riad Alkantara
A complex of six grand houses around a pool and garden, Riad Alkantara was due to open early in 2008. There are workshops in Moroccan crafts, art workshops for children, a café and evenings of poetry, storytelling and music. The spa (opening late 2008) has a hammam and massage room, and offers classes in movement, yoga and meditation.
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Chez Boutbi Nadia
Nadia is one of the few women shopkeepers in the medina. Her small shop sells traditional Fassi ceramics at excellent prices (tiny tajines for salt and pepper around DH15; plates from around DH35) and it's the best place for that tajine so you can cook Moroccan-style at home (tajine for three servings Dh40, for six servings Dh50).
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Au Coin Du Bois
Worth visiting if only to see a beautiful example of a Fassi house, this shop stocks large pieces of furniture which they'll arrange to ship home for you. There are tables, doors and windows, cupboards and chairs - some antique and some not. An old carved door will set you back some around DH4500, a carved and painted box Dh1700.
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Art Du Bronze
Handcrafted brass and metalware gleam from every corner of this large shop. Much is made on the premises and you can see the craftsman at work every day from 09:00 to 17:00. Brass plates and teapots start at around DH150. Good quality camel-bone mirrors start at around DH500 and there are filigree lanterns from around Dh2500.
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Derb Fez El-Jdid
The kissariat along this bustling thoroughfare are home to stalls selling jellabas of every possible colour, quality, price and cut. Utilitarian polyester and wool styles predominate, but it's also possible to access Bollywood-style confections in satin and silk, as well as truly frightening faux-leopard-skin numbers.
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L'art Traditionnel
Pierced brass, sometimes with opaque or coloured Iraqi glass, is used for all the lanterns here: an ostrich-egg size costs around DH900, a small lantern around DH1400 and one with glass inserts around DH1200. There are also carved wooden chests, tables and old doors. The shop is contracted to Medina Express for easy shipping.
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Salon De Thé Batha
Here's one of the best patisseries selling excellent bread, cakes and croissants but the pièce de résistance is the patisserie: tiny exquisite biscuit creations featuring almonds, sesame paste, chocolate and macaroons. A 250g box of the best (essential when visiting Moroccan families) costs around DH30.
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Riad Maison Bleue Spa
This spa uses Moroccan products such as ghassoul, argan oil, orange flower water and rose petals. The basic hammam treatment costs DH500, a session including the steam room, gommage (exfoliation) and massage costs around DH800; the Thousand & One Nights treatment adds a manicure, pedicure and facial.
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Galerie Nejarine
Ahmed specialises in reproductions of old ceramics, so while a 40-year-old bowl in his shop costs around DH650, the reproductions are around DH250. He also has small bowls, resin and bronze candleholders and two-seater rectangular pouffes. He's contracted to Medina Express so shipping things home is safe and easy.
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Woodwork Shop
One of the last craftsmen left who works entirely by hand (and foot), this elderly gentleman produces cedarwood and thuja boxes often inlaid with lemon wood, photograph frames and games such as dominoes and chessboards. He's particularly proud of his puzzle-boxes - see if you can find out how to open one.
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Bachir El Meski
Coin purses, wallets and handbags in all colours abound in this shop (from around DH5). Sandals and round-toed Berber slippers cost around DH30 to around DH100. There are pouffes from around DH55 to around DH300: goatskin is at the upper end of this price range, while tooled camel- and goatskin is Dh150.
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Coin De Henne
This tiny shop stocks medicinal herbs and spices, essential oils, flower waters and perfumes. Si Mohammed el-Amrani sells good honey from the south, and tubs of argan oil-based cream for wrinkles. There's also traditional incense, including gum arabic, sandalwood and frankincense. And wonderful clocks!
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Yuba-Cyn Spa
A bit of Bangkok recreated in the centre of Fez, Yuba-cyn has become known for its blissful Thai massages (it was the first spa to offer these in Morocco). There are aromatherapy massages as well. It also offers aromatherapy treatments, hairdressing, manicures, pedicures and waxing for men and women.
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Brassware Shop
There are several small metalwork shops in this area. Ali Benjelloun has some good Hand of Fatima doorknockers in the shape of a hand, as well as a flat stylised version. There's another shop (54 Talaa Kebira) that has shiny silver-plated teapots and orange flower water shakers and incense burners.
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Maison Bleue
It's worth visiting this shop just to see the magnificent small house it's in, complete with balconies, painted ceilings and intricate plasterwork, occupied by the family who run the place. There's a veritable treasure trove of plates, dishes, bowls and more in the traditional designs of Fez.
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Tissage Berbere
Koko's shop is chock full of lamps, carpets, blankets and hendiras. His speciality is making pouffes to order out of the softest goatskin (non-smelly) with your choice of kilim inserts - old or new. He also has some ready-made, and at around DH350 for the large ones, they're a steal.
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