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Assouan
Tables on the terrace of this popular café offer peerless people-watching opportunities. Park yourself here during the promenade hour, order a coffee (espresso around DH8 ) and slice of gooey gateaux (around DH10 ) and prepare to enjoy yourself.
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Blue Babel
The vibe here is similar to that of Assouan, but the location isn't quite as good and the clientele is a bit younger due to the fact that ice cream and pizza join coffee and cake on the menu. The prices are the same as at Assouan.
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Café Ba Bouchta
Opposite the funduq is this very old café'. A small wood fire, pumped up with bellows, heats water in a copper urn; sugar is chipped off a large cone with a special hammer, and men sit playing cards in the L-shaped room. Sit on a stool at the window and watch the square below. Mint tea is around DH3 and coffee Dh3.
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Café Clock
This eclectic café-cum-restaurant,, off Talaa Kebira at the Water Clock , offers delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop for tea and scrumptious homemade cakes (especially the lemon tart) on the roof terrace with its stunning view of the Bou Inania minaret, browse in the book exchange and check out the art-filled walls. Try the crunchy salads, camel burgers or today's fresh fish.
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Cafe De Tabarakallah
This large popular café, opposite Cinema Amal, has space inside and upstairs, but the best place for watching the world go by is outside on the pavement. Pains au chocolat (pastry with chocolate) are around DH2 , coffee or mint tea Dh5.
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Cafe Firdaous
This is a great place for breakfast (croissant around DH3 , pain au chocolat around DH2 , coffee around DH5 ), or sip a glass of mint tea (Dh5) and watch the comings and goings in bustling Batha.
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Café Jawharat Fes
Staff and students at the nearby American Language Center couldn't believe their luck when this café recently opened its doors. The Gulf-style décor is over-the-top, but the service is friendly and professional, the terrace is pleasant and the coffee isn't bad. Best of all, it offers free wifi.
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Cafe Kortoba
This café is an institution. When you're tired of all the walking, it's a great (albeit small) place to sit for coffee or mint tea, orange juice, an ice cream or a slice of cake. Bang on the edge of the Kairaouine, there's plenty going on around you.
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Café Ourika
The kerbside tables at this neighbourhood café to the east of Bab Semmarine are the perfect spots from which to observe the comings and goings of the Mellah. A large mint tea costs around DH10 .
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Cheap Eateries
The raft of clean and cheap eateries along this strip near the Jardin Public serve fresh salads, brochettes and tajines that could hold their own in many of the city's upmarket restaurants. After eating your fill, it's not unknown to receive change from around DH40 . The place closest to the garden is our favourite.
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Cremerie La Place
This is one of the best people-watching spots in the medina. Friendly Mostapha serves excellent mint tea or coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and pastries. Sit on stools in the tiny space inside, or spread out on the pavement in this prettiest of squares and watch the coppersmiths hammering away, and the passing parade.
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Crémerie Skali
A favourite haunt of traders and shoppers at the Central Market, this unassuming café serves juices (around DH10 ), coffees (around DH5 ) and pastries (around DH4 ). It's a particularly satisfying mid-morning stop.
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Dar Anebar
After a drink in the pretty lamp-lit courtyard, retire to one of the sumptuous dining salons to eat Moroccan-style at low tables. Excellent food and friendly service make for an enjoyable evening. Dinner is a set three-course menu, and wine is available.
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Dar El Ghalia
Eat on the terrace or in the salon at this lovely guesthouse. Choose from the set menus or à la carte: there are salads, excellent harira , grills, fresh fish, tajines and couscous. Order in advance if you'd like to try pigeon trid (baked dough stuffed with meat) or mechoui (roast lamb). Wines and spirits are available. A 10% tip is added to the bill.
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Dar Roumana
This is fusion cuisine - Mediterranean food with a Moroccan twist. Dine on the terrace with fabulous views over the medina, or by the fire in winter. Shrimp and sea bass b'stilla (rich savoury-sweet pie) or swordfish in pomegranate molasses could tickle your tastebuds, followed by chocolate-and-cinnamon mousse. You'll need to book in advance. Wine is available.
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Don Panini
For a cheap sandwich or fresh salad, you need go no further than this popular fast-food joint. Locals love it to bits and once you've tasted the food, you'll know why.
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Kasbah Restaurant
This restaurant is noteworthy for the view and the good selection of local music. The food is somewhat bland, but it's a good place to relax over a glass of mint tea (around DH5 ). Note that the price of drinks doubles if you're not eating. Choose from the three-course set menu or à la carte . Closing hours can extend to when everyone's left!
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La Maison Bleue
Billed as 'one of the most romantic hotels in the world', this restaurant lives up to that ideal with your name spelled out in spangles on the table. An array of salads is followed by a tajine, couscous or b'stilla (rich, savoury-sweet chicken or pigeon pie made with fine pastry), and the signature dessert is waraka pastry (a paper-thin pastry, finer than filo, that's crispy when cooked) filled with patisserie cream.
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Le Majestic
As swish as the Ville's dining scene gets, this upmarket place in the Henri Leconte Tennis Academy dishes up food that it describes as being 'refined, inventive and modern'. And fair enough, too. It's known for its fish dishes and its truly excellent seasonal salads. The wine list is prohibitively expensive, so it's fortunate that the house wine is perfectly quaffable. If you call ahead, the restaurant will send a car to collect you from your hotel and drop you back at no cost.
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Les Trois Sources
If pressed, locals in the know will 'fess up and say that this cosy French restaurant in the Country Club is their favourite place to eat in Fez. The food is excellent, the wine list is well balanced and the atmosphere is extremely welcoming. The restaurant will collect you from your medina hotel and return you after dinner at no charge if you call in advance.
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Medina Café
Nestling in the shadow of Bab Bou Jeloud, this pretty café is a good choice if you feel in need of a restorative mint tea (around DH12 ) or coffee (around DH10 ) after battling the medina crowds. Its clean toilets and friendly service deserve commendation, but the food on offer can be disappointing.
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Palais Jamaï
This five-star hotel has a superb position overlooking the medina. There's a French restaurant and a Moroccan restaurant. At lunch they serve a good buffet on the terrace above the pool (or in the dining room in winter): there's the salad buffet, or the salad buffet with barbecue and dessert.
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Restaurant Fassi
Abdou and his brothers serve excellent sandwiches cooked to order. Choose from the display of meat or chicken with onions and tomatoes and an array of salads, all stuffed into a round loaf or a baguette.
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Restaurant Marrakech
It's always wise to follow the French when it comes to choosing a dinner venue, and the fact that this welcoming restaurant is always chock-full with Gallic gastronomes is a clear clue as to its quality. The three-course menus on offer include main courses of couscous royale, brochettes Morocain or b'stilla aux poulet (rich, savoury-sweet chicken pie made with fine pastry). Drawbacks? No alcohol and no credit cards.
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Restaurant Zagora
The kitsch décor featuring naff Kasbah murals will be forgiven the minute you taste the tasty and well-priced dishes on offer at this long-standing favourite. The m'hammer d'agneau aux légumes (roast lamb with vegetables and cumin) is simple but perfectly cooked and the fish dishes are equally satisfying. With a good wine list and ultrafriendly waiters, this place is hard to beat. You'll find it at the rear of the arcade.






