Things to do in Ceuta (Sebta)
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Peninsula
A walk around the peninsula reveals a bit more of the history and mystery that makes Ceuta what it is. The peninsula is topped by Monte Hacho, said by some to be the southern Pillar of Hercules (Jebel Musa, west of Ceuta, is the other contender; Gibraltar being the northern pillar). The summit is crowned by Fortaleza de Hacho, a fort first built by the Byzantines and added to since by the Moroccans, Portuguese and Spanish. Now occupied by the army, it is out of bounds.
On the northern slopes of Monte Hacho stands the yellow-and-white Ermita de San Antonio. This convent, originally built in the 17th century and reconstructed in the 1960s, is the venue for a large festival …
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Casa de Los Dragones
With its green triumphal arch (inscribed ‘a monument to coexistence’) and fountain, the Plaza de Los Reyes, borders the twin-towered yellow Iglesia deSan Francisco.But the real treasure lies across the street: the Casa de los Dragones a fantastic dream that has entered the real world. Recently restored to perfection, this former home is an extraordinary example of eclectic architecture, with Moorish arches, polished brick facades, Mansard roofs, fabulous balconies, and the pièce de résistance, four enormous dark dragons springing from the roof. The intricate anagram of the Cerni Gonzalez Brothers, the builders, is emblazoned on the corner. Tip your hat.
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Museo de la Legión
This intriguing museum is dedicated to and run by the Spanish Legion, an army unit set up in 1920 that played a pivotal role in Franco’s republican army. Loaded to the gills with memorabilia, weaponry and uniforms, not to mention glory, pomp and circumstance, it is a fascinating glimpse into the military culture that shaped the north, from the imperious statue of Franco, to the explanation of how the legion’s intrepid founder, Millan Astray, lost his right eye, to the history of the legion in cinema. They even check your passport at the door. Alternatively, you can enlist at http://lalegion.es. There are guided tours in English.
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Parque Marítimo del Mediterráneo
This creative maritime park is one of several versions developed by the brilliant artist and architect Cesar Manrique of the Canary Islands. The architect borrowed the city walls theme to construct a huge pool deck on the sea, including a grand lagoon and two other saltwater pools, surrounded by 10 bars, pubs, restaurants and cafés. A central island holds a fortress casino. A pictorial display of Manrique’s work lies just inside the entrance, 50m to the right. This is a real hit in the summer, and perfect for families.
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Royal Walls
The most impressive sight in Ceuta is the medieval Royal Walls. These extensive fortifications, of great strategic complexity, have been beautifully restored, with information boards in English. The beautifully designed Museo de los Muralles Reales, a gallery that houses temporary art exhibitions, lies within the walls themselves. It’s a most atmospheric space, worth visiting regardless of what’s on show – although if you’re lucky enough to catch local artist Diego Canca, don’t miss his work.
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City Walls
These impressive remnants are probably Ceuta's most interesting historical sight. They've been beautifully restored to their 16th-century glory, with information boards in English telling the gripping story of the plague and famine that accompanied Moulay Ismail's ultimately unsuccessful 33-year siege of Ceuta, which began in 1694. Entry cost also includes access to the Museo de los Muralles Reales, the local gallery.
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Ermita de San Antonio
This convent, originally built in the 17th century and reconstructed in the 1960s, is worth visiting for the magnificent views over Ceuta and north to Gibraltar. To find the convent, follow the main road clockwise around the peninsula 2.5km to Parque de San Amaro and a small zoo. Take one of the paths leading up steeply into a bowl of hills, and veering eastwards, and you should come out on a lane below the convent.
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Museo de la Basilica Tardorromana
This superbly executed underground museum is integrated into the architectural remains of an ancient basilica discovered during street work in the ’80s, including a bridge over open tombs, skeletons included. The artefacts become a means of branching out into various elements of local history. In Spanish, but definitely worth a lap through. Enter via c/Queipo de Llano.
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Café Central
Conviviality reigns in this sophisticated bar/coffee lounge, with subdued music and an art-deco entrance. The bronze statue of an arm lifting a tankard over the bar – a working beer pull – is an eccentric touch. An excellent place for coffee, brandy or ice cream (or all three) at any time.
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Cala Carlota
This simple restaurant has a prime location in the Club Nautico overlooking the yacht harbour, with outdoor seating in season. The three-course menú del diá (daily set menu) is a popular choice, while the luscious fish dishes will set you back the same amount on their own.
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Baños Árabes
Accidentally discovered during street work, these ancient Arab baths , sit on a main road, an incongruous sight. There are two of them, with barrel-vaulted roofs originally covered with marble – the high-tech spa of its time.
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Arab Baths
Accidentally discovered during street work, these ancient Arab baths, sit on a main road, an incongruous sight. There are two of them, with barrel-vaulted roofs originally covered with marble – the high-tech spa of its time.
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Club Nautico
This simple restaurant has a nice location overlooking the yacht harbour. The three-course menú del diá (daily set menu) is a popular choice, while the luscious fish dishes will set you back the same amount on their own.
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Dublin
It’s like every other Irish pub you’ve ever been in, but if you need that Guinness fix, this is the place. If the volume gets to you, you can escape to the tables outside. Go down steps where Calle Delgado Serrano takes a 90-degree bend.
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Castillo del Desnarigado
The Castillo del Desnarigado is a small fort on the southeastern tip of Ceuta (Sebta), which houses a small military museum. There is a lighthouse above, and a secluded beach, Playa Torrecilla, below.
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Gran Muralla
If you’ve had enough local food, you’ll find hearty portions of Chinese standards here. Window tables have views over the plaza and out to sea. Be careful during off-hours, as yesterday’s rice will be waiting.
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El Puente Cafeteria
Opening out onto a plaza made for people-watching, El Puente is a trendy and modern café-bar with great sandwiches. It’s an ideal stop for breakfast. It gets busy, so work hard to catch the eyes of the staff.
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El Angulo
Here’s your chance to eat inside the Royal Walls. The local meats and seafood are as good as the unique atmosphere. White tablecloths and stone fortifications work surprisingly well together.
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La Marina
This smart, friendly restaurant is often crowded at lunch time. It specialises in fish dishes, but also does a great-value three-course set menu of the chicken/fish and chips variety.
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Museo de los Muralles Reales
A gallery that houses temporary art exhibitions. Squeezed out of the fort's unforgiving architecture, it's a beautifully designed space, worth visiting irrespective of what's on show.
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Supersol Supermarket
The Supersol supermarket is the best place to stock up on essentials and treats alike; there’s a smaller branch in the city centre on Dean Navarro Acuña.
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Mesón de Pacho
Each drink comes with a plate of tapas. This place is very homely and welcoming, but tends to get crowded. Other dishes, like burgers and omelettes, are also available.
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La Jota
Offers a delightful array of cakes and ice creams, although the scoops are less than generous. A good place to start – or end – a day of exploring the city.
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Mesón el Cortijo
A classic neighbourhood gathering place heavy on tapas, cerveza (beer) and friendliness. Catch up on football, gossip, and practice your Español.
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La Prensa
This no-frills dive is the most popular of several small bars spilling out onto this pedestrian street. La Prensa packs in the locals till the wee hours.
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