Sights in Ceuta (Sebta)
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Peninsula
A walk around the peninsula reveals a bit more of the history and mystery that makes Ceuta what it is. The peninsula is topped by Monte Hacho, said by some to be the southern Pillar of Hercules (Jebel Musa, west of Ceuta, is the other contender; Gibraltar being the northern pillar). The summit is crowned by Fortaleza de Hacho, a fort first built by the Byzantines and added to since by the Moroccans, Portuguese and Spanish. Now occupied by the army, it is out of bounds.
On the northern slopes of Monte Hacho stands the yellow-and-white Ermita de San Antonio. This convent, originally built in the 17th century and reconstructed in the 1960s, is the venue for a large festival …
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Casa de Los Dragones
With its green triumphal arch (inscribed ‘a monument to coexistence’) and fountain, the Plaza de Los Reyes, borders the twin-towered yellow Iglesia deSan Francisco.But the real treasure lies across the street: the Casa de los Dragones a fantastic dream that has entered the real world. Recently restored to perfection, this former home is an extraordinary example of eclectic architecture, with Moorish arches, polished brick facades, Mansard roofs, fabulous balconies, and the pièce de résistance, four enormous dark dragons springing from the roof. The intricate anagram of the Cerni Gonzalez Brothers, the builders, is emblazoned on the corner. Tip your hat.
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Museo de la Legión
This intriguing museum is dedicated to and run by the Spanish Legion, an army unit set up in 1920 that played a pivotal role in Franco’s republican army. Loaded to the gills with memorabilia, weaponry and uniforms, not to mention glory, pomp and circumstance, it is a fascinating glimpse into the military culture that shaped the north, from the imperious statue of Franco, to the explanation of how the legion’s intrepid founder, Millan Astray, lost his right eye, to the history of the legion in cinema. They even check your passport at the door. Alternatively, you can enlist at http://lalegion.es. There are guided tours in English.
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Royal Walls
The most impressive sight in Ceuta is the medieval Royal Walls. These extensive fortifications, of great strategic complexity, have been beautifully restored, with information boards in English. The beautifully designed Museo de los Muralles Reales, a gallery that houses temporary art exhibitions, lies within the walls themselves. It’s a most atmospheric space, worth visiting regardless of what’s on show – although if you’re lucky enough to catch local artist Diego Canca, don’t miss his work.
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City Walls
These impressive remnants are probably Ceuta's most interesting historical sight. They've been beautifully restored to their 16th-century glory, with information boards in English telling the gripping story of the plague and famine that accompanied Moulay Ismail's ultimately unsuccessful 33-year siege of Ceuta, which began in 1694. Entry cost also includes access to the Museo de los Muralles Reales, the local gallery.
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Ermita de San Antonio
This convent, originally built in the 17th century and reconstructed in the 1960s, is worth visiting for the magnificent views over Ceuta and north to Gibraltar. To find the convent, follow the main road clockwise around the peninsula 2.5km to Parque de San Amaro and a small zoo. Take one of the paths leading up steeply into a bowl of hills, and veering eastwards, and you should come out on a lane below the convent.
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Museo de la Basilica Tardorromana
This superbly executed underground museum is integrated into the architectural remains of an ancient basilica discovered during street work in the ’80s, including a bridge over open tombs, skeletons included. The artefacts become a means of branching out into various elements of local history. In Spanish, but definitely worth a lap through. Enter via c/Queipo de Llano.
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Baños Árabes
Accidentally discovered during street work, these ancient Arab baths , sit on a main road, an incongruous sight. There are two of them, with barrel-vaulted roofs originally covered with marble – the high-tech spa of its time.
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Castillo del Desnarigado
The Castillo del Desnarigado is a small fort on the southeastern tip of Ceuta (Sebta), which houses a small military museum. There is a lighthouse above, and a secluded beach, Playa Torrecilla, below.
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Museo de los Muralles Reales
A gallery that houses temporary art exhibitions. Squeezed out of the fort's unforgiving architecture, it's a beautifully designed space, worth visiting irrespective of what's on show.
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Cathedral Santa Maria de la Asuncion
The 17th century, twin-spired Cathedral Santa Maria de la Asuncion has a museum which was under renovation at time of research.
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Museo de Ceuta
This ageing city museum has a small collection showing the peninsula’s pre-Spanish history, with all labels in Spanish.
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Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Africa
The striking yellow Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Africa is an 18th-century Andalucian-style church.
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