Things to do in The Atlantic Coast
-
outdoor
One of Essaouira's best food experiences is the outdoor fish grills that line the port end of Pl Moulay Hassan. Just choose what you want to eat from the colourful displays of fresh fish and seafood outside each grill, agree on a price (expect to pay about Dh40 for lunch) and wait for it to be cooked on the spot.
reviewed
-
Art Deco Buildings
If you can see past the traffic, fumes and general chaos of central Casablanca you'll discover the city's rich architectural heritage, a blend of French-colonial design and traditional Moroccan style known as Mauresque architecture. Developed in the 1930s and heavily influenced by the Art Deco movement, it embraced decorative details such as intricate carved friezes, beautiful tile work and ornate wrought-iron balconies.
Although some of the era's gems have been beautifully restored, others lie in shameful disrepair. Pl Mohammed V is the grand centrepiece of the French regeneration scheme. Impressive facades and colonial buildings line Rue Indriss Lahrizi, Rue Tahar Sebti…
reviewed
-
A
Rick’s Cafe
‘Here’s looking at you kid!’ Cashing in on the Hollywood hit Casablanca, this beautiful bar, lounge and restaurant is run by a former American diplomat, with furniture and fittings inspired by the film, and serving a taste of home for the nostalgic masses. Lamb chops, chilli, hamburgers and American breakfasts as well as a few excellent French and Moroccan specialities are all on the menu. There’s also an in-house pianist, a Sunday jazz session, wi-fi access and, inevitably, souvenir T-shirts. It’s a stunning setting and a good place for late-night drinks. You can watch the film again and again on the 1st floor.
reviewed
-
B
Spice Souq
For herbal Viagra, Berber lipstick, cures for baldness and exotic spices, the spice souq is the place to go. The jovial traders will try and draw you in with their more eccentric wares but the best buys are the aromatic spice blends for tajine, fish and chicken. You can also buy argan oil products here as well as the traditional amlou (about Dh40 per bottle). Nearby is the fish souq, an interesting place to wander even if you're not buying, and across Ave de l'Istiqlal, is the jewellery souq, a small area of jewellery shops with everything from heavy Berber beads to gaudy gold.
reviewed
-
C
Skala de la Ville
The dramatic, wave-lashed ramparts that surround the medina are a great place to get an overview of the labyrinth of streets. The ramparts were famously used in the opening scene of Orson Welles' Othello for a panoramic shot where Iago is suspended in a cage above the rocks and sea. The easiest place to access the ramparts is at Skala de la Ville, the impressive sea bastion built along the cliffs. A collection of European brass cannons from the 18th and 19th centuries line the walkway here and you'll also get great views out to sea and wonderful sunsets.
reviewed
-
D
Elizir
The best restaurant in town by far, this place was temporarily closed at the time of research, but will hopefully reopen soon. The Elizir serves a perfectly cooked mix of Moroccan and Mediterranean dishes with an innovative twist. The owner of this old house just off the main street is super-friendly, and loves to talk about where he found all the iconic 1950s and ’60s furniture he has collected from local junk markets. The decor is sublime, and if it were in London or New York, it would be voted the hippest place in town.
reviewed
-
E
Café Maure
Nestled in the ochre walls of the sqala, an 18th-century fortified bastion, this lovely restaurant is a tranquil escape from the city. Choose to sit in the rustic interior or the lovely garden surrounded by flower-draped trellises and enjoy the wonderfully relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. The menu favours seafood and salads, although meat dishes are also available, and the exotic fruit juices are simply sublime.
reviewed
-
F
Taros Café
One of the most atmospheric terraces in Essaouira, and the only real bar, is at the Taros Café, where you can sip your drinks under giant lamps and huddle round your table to fend off the wind whipping up from the sea. The restaurant (mains Dh70 to Dh120) is a bit hit-and-miss for food, but it has live music and belly dancing most nights.
reviewed
-
G
Skala du Port
Down by the harbour, the Skala du Port offers cannons and picturesque views over the fishing port and the Île de Mogador. Looking back at the walled medina from here, through a curtain of swirling seagulls, you’ll get the same evocative picture that is used on nearly all official literature.
reviewed
-
So
The hippest club in Agadir and one of the most expensive. So is laid out on several levels and includes a champagne bar, vodka bar, live-music stage, restaurant, dance floor and chill-out area. Guest DJs appear on Thursdays. Agadir swingers save this one for the climax of the evening’s entertainment.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
La Fibule
Subtle lighting, warm colours and an elegant decor give La Fibule an inviting atmosphere. The food is a mixture of well-prepared Moroccan and Lebanese, served at low tables overlooking the ocean through large windows.
reviewed
-
H
La Scala
Excellent Moroccan restaurant, popular with wealthy Moroccans, Arab tourists and Westerners, which makes for a pleasantly cosmopolitan atmosphere. The food is elegant and fresh, and beautifully presented.
reviewed
-
I
Pâtisserie Driss
For morning croissants or an afternoon pastry the best places to go are Pâtisserie Driss (which has a hidden seating area) and Café Faid, both near Pl Moulay Hassan.
reviewed
-
J
Snack Amine
Tucked between the chicken rotisseries by the Marché Central, Snack Amine serves up big plates of simple but tasty fried fish, and platters of the freshest seafood.
reviewed
-
K
Via Veneto
Small, intimate trattoria that serves the best Italian fare in town, including excellent pizzas baked in a wood oven and a great selection of fish.
reviewed
-
L
Café Restaurant Bab Laachour
To warm up for an evening out, you could try the terrace at the Café Restaurant Bab Laachour.
reviewed
-
M
La Siciliana
A bustling little trattoria, this hits the spot with a long list of good wood-fired pizzas.
reviewed
-
N
Hassan II Mosque
The brainchild and crowning achievement of King Hassan II, this phenomenal building is the world's third-largest mosque. It was built to commemorate the former king's 60th birthday and opened in 1993 giving Casablanca the heart and landmark it so sorely missed.
The mosque rises above the ocean on a rocky outcrop reclaimed from the sea; taking literally the verse from the Quran that states that God's throne was built upon the water. It's a vast building that can hold 25,000 worshippers and accommodate a further 80,000 in the courtyards and squares around it. The mosque was designed by the French architect Michel Pinseau and is topped by a soaring 210m-tall minaret, which s…
reviewed
-
O
Place Mohammed V
Place Mohammed V is the grand centrepiece of the French regeneration scheme. The vast square is surrounded by an impressive array of august administrative buildings, mostly designed by Henri Prost and Robert Marrast. The ancienne préfecture (old police headquarters), dating from 1930, dominates the south side of the square and is topped by a modernist clock tower.
The nearby Palais de Justice (law courts) was built in 1925. The huge main door and entrance was inspired by the Persian iwan, a vaulted hall that usually opens into the central court of the medersa (theological college) of a mosque. Stroll across the grand square and admire the 1918 main post office, a wonderf…
reviewed
-
Quartier Habous
The Quartier Habous, or nouvelle medina, is Morocco-lite - an idealised, almost toy-town, version of a traditional medina with neat little rows of streets and shop stalls. The district was built by the French in the 1930s as an attempted solution to the ongoing housing shortage. It marries the best of traditional Moroccan architecture with modern facilities and French ideals - even the mosque fronts onto a strip of grassy lawn just like a village church.
For fans of the bustle and chaos of traditional markets, it may feel too sanitised to be authentic, but if you fancy some Moroccan character without the associated smells and hassle, it's got a decent selection of bazaars…
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Raissouli's Palace
This building in Asilah still stands as a testament to the sumptuous life that scoundrel Moulay Ahmed ben Mohammed er-Raissouli (or Raisuni) led at the height of his power. He was a feared bandit, kidnapper and general troublemaker who went from petty crime to murder. The Spaniards eventually forced Er-Raissouli to flee Asilah after WWI, but he continued to wreak havoc in the Rif hinterland until 1925, when the Rif rebel Abd al-Krim arrested him and accused him of being too closely linked with the Spanish.
The building includes a main reception room with a glass-fronted terrace overlooking the sea, from where Er-Raissouli forced convicted murderers to jump to their deaths…
reviewed
-
P
Parc de la Ligue Arabe
Casa's biggest open space is the Parc de la Ligue Arabe. It's a good place for games and walks, has a choice of small cafés and the Yasmina amusement park.
Parc de la Ligue Arabe, has an essentially French layout, although the flora is more faithful to its location in Africa. Cathédrale du Sacré Coeur, built in 1930, is a somewhat neglected former cathedral. It's also an unexpected sight in the heart of a Muslim city and is symbolic of modern Casablanca's essentially European genesis. Sitting on the edge of the Parc de la Ligue Arabe, it reflects the best of the more adventurous architectural products of the Art Deco era. Deconsecrated some time ago, it has been conver…
reviewed
-
Ancienne Medina
Casablanca's modest medina gives an idea of just how small the city was before the French embarked on their massive building programme. Even though it's the oldest part of the city, most of the buildings date from the 19th century and it lacks the medieval character of other city medinas.
Enter the medina from the northeast corner of the Pl des Nations Unies near the restored clock tower. The narrow lanes to the east are piled high with cheap shoes, high-sheen synthetic underwear and household goods, while the rest of the medina remains largely residential. On the north side of the medina, facing the port, you'll see the last remains of Casablanca's 18th-century fortifica…
reviewed
-
Beaches
The affluent suburb of Aïn Diab runs along the Atlantic beachfront west of the centre and is home to the happening Blvd de la Corniche. Lined with beach clubs, upmarket hotels, restaurants, bars and clubs it is the entertainment hub of Casablanca and the place for young, chic professionals to see and be seen.
However, the promenade packed with walkers and joggers is really a potholed pavement and in between the busy beach clubs, the view is spoiled by abandoned pleasure grounds and concrete swimming pools filled with construction rubbish. The beach is still extremely popular though, and the easiest way to find an empty strip of sand is to visit one of the beach clubs. Bu…
reviewed
-
Kasbah
The ruined old Kasbah, on a hill 7km to the northwest of the town, commands good views over the port. It was built in 1540 by the Saadian Sultan Mohammed ech-Cheikh, and restored and regarrisoned in 1752 by the Alawite Sultan Moulay Abdallah, who was responsible for the demise of Agadir as a trade depot. Abandoned to the inhabitants of Agadir, the garrison provided housing for nearly 300 people, and traces of these dwellings can still be made out.
The grassy area below the kasbah, Ancienne Talborjt, covers the remains of Agadir's medina and constitutes a mass grave for all those who died in the 1960 earthquake. The walk up to the kasbah is long and hot - get a taxi up and…
reviewed
