Restaurants in Essaouira
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outdoor
One of Essaouira's best food experiences is the outdoor fish grills that line the port end of Pl Moulay Hassan. Just choose what you want to eat from the colourful displays of fresh fish and seafood outside each grill, agree on a price (expect to pay about Dh40 for lunch) and wait for it to be cooked on the spot.
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Pâtisserie Driss
For morning croissants or an afternoon pastry the best places to go are Pâtisserie Driss (which has a hidden seating area) and Café Faid, both near Pl Moulay Hassan.
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Elizir
The best restaurant in town by far, this place was temporarily closed at the time of research, but will hopefully reopen soon. The Elizir serves a perfectly cooked mix of Moroccan and Mediterranean dishes with an innovative twist. The owner of this old house just off the main street is super-friendly, and loves to talk about where he found all the iconic 1950s and ’60s furniture he has collected from local junk markets. The decor is sublime, and if it were in London or New York, it would be voted the hippest place in town.
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Restaurante Les Alizés
This popular place, run by a charming Moroccan couple in a 19th-century house, has delicious Moroccan dishes, particularly the couscous with fish and the tajine of boulettes de sardines (sardine balls). You’ll get a very friendly welcome. Book well ahead as it fills up every night, both with Moroccans and visitors. It’s above Pension Smar.
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Restaurant Ferdaous
A delightful Moroccan restaurant, and one of the few places in town that serves real, home-cooked, traditional Moroccan food. The seasonal menu offers an innovative take on traditional recipes, the service is very friendly and the low tables and padded seating make it feel like the real McCoy.
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Restaurant El-Minzah
Sit on the outside terrace or in the elegant dining room inside at this popular place facing the ramparts. The menu features a good selection of international dishes with specialities such as blue shark and Berber tajine with argan oil, and there’s lively Gnawa music here on Saturday nights.
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Riad Al-Baraka
Set in a former Jewish school, this hip place has several dining rooms and a bar set around a large courtyard shaded by a huge fig tree. The food is mainly Moroccan with some Middle Eastern and Jewish influences, the decor cool, and there’s live music by local bands at weekends.
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Restaurante Les Chandeliers
This popular place opposite the museum has an atmospheric setting in an historic town house with candle-lit tables and an interesting menu of French and Moroccan fare. You can get anything here from a fine magret du canard (duck breast) to cheap and cheerful pizza.
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Côté Plage
Part of the looming Sofitel, this beachfront café has a nice and elegant decked area where you can sit beneath the shade of giant white umbrellas. You can nibble on tapas (Dh35) as you look out over the ocean for the afternoon or arrive on Sunday for the all-day barbecue.
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Café d’Horloge
This popular café is an excellent choice for a breakfast of amlou (a spread made of local argan oil, almond and honey) and crepes or bread (Dh25). It’s away from the hoards of people on the main café drag and a good choice for a quiet coffee or snack.
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Ocean Vagabond
Although a good walk from town, this simple little café is the best of the beachfront offerings. It serves a decent but limited range of sandwiches, pizza, pasta and salads and has plenty of comfy seats in the sand from where the kids can run free.
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Les Trois Portes
Stone arches, tiled tables and a constant stream of happy customers make this cheerful little place one of the most popular joints in town. Run by a group of jovial sisters, it's warm and friendly with a full range of pizzas and pastas.
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Chez Françoise
An excellent choice for a light, healthy meal, this pared-back little place offers a choice of savoury tarts served with three tangy salads. It's simple, well-made food and is a glorious find after a diet of tajine and kefta.
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Le 5
Deep-purple seating, warm stone arches and giant lampshades dominate this trendy restaurant which serves well-cooked and original Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes. One of the favourite places to head for dinner.
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Gelateria Dolce Freddo
With more than 30 varieties of authentic Italian ice cream on offer, you’ll find it hard to resist temptation at this little place on the main square. It’s just Dh5 a scoop and the best you’ll find in town.
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Fish Souq
You can visit the fish souq, buy some of the day’s catch and take it to one of the grill stands in the southern corner. It’ll come back cooked and served with bread and salad for Dh30.
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Café Faid
For morning croissants or an afternoon pastry the best places to go are Pâtisserie Driss (which has a hidden seating area) and Café Faid, both near Pl Moulay Hassan.
reviewed
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P
Au Bonheur des Dames
A new, elegant terrace on this picturesque square that serves an upmarket selection of teas, coffee, fresh juices and a good breakfast (Dh80).
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outdoor
One of Essaouira's best food experiences is the outdoor fish grills that line the port end of Pl Moulay Hassan. Just choose what you want to eat from the colourful displays of fresh fish and seafood outside each grill, agree on a price (expect to pay about Dh40 for lunch) and wait for it to be cooked on the spot.
reviewed