Slow-roasted lamb cooked in a hammam, roasted-eggplant caviar, hearty white bean soup… Marrakesh’s traditional specialities are mouth-watering. However, Marrakshis don’t eat out often, and with Dh65-80 for a scrawny chicken tajine on the Djemaa el Fna and set-price restaurant menus starting at Dh300-plus, you can see why. This said, Djemaa stalls have a better turnover of ingredients than most fancy restaurants, where you can’t typically check the meat and cooking oil before you sit down to dinner. Arrive just before sunset to watch chefs set up shop right in the heart of the action. Good-value restaurants can be found, especially in the Ville Nouvelle, but if you’re staying at a riad, home cooking is an attractive option. Many riad chefs are dadas who once cooked for Marrakesh’s high society, so the meals you enjoy on your riad terrace may be truly royal. Another great option is taking a cooking course.