Local guides may usher you into the local synagogue, still in use, and the miaâra, or Jewish cemetery, where the gatekeeper will let you in to see bright whitewashed tombs topped with piles of rocks for remembrance (Dh10 tip expected). But to see the vibrant living legacy of mellah spice traders and artisans, check out the Mellah Market and artisans’ showrooms in and around Place des Ferblantiers.