Café Argana

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    024 445350

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Lonely Planet review

One of the few cafés where you'll compete with locals for elbow room and a spectacular view of the Djemaa at sunset, when the restaurant stalls set up shop and the belly dancers begin to wriggle.

Each floor is its own distinct scene: the top balcony is a private retreat for couples and gossiping friends lingering over tea and ice cream in sweetened-cardboard flavours; the next floor down has a double balcony, with back rows for snacks and the front for passable tagines; and the ground floor is for coffee, tea and ice-cream cones.