Mountains & Desert
From Saharan dunes to the peaks of the High Atlas, Morocco could have been tailor-made for travellers. Lyrical landscapes carpet this sublime slice of North Africa like the richly coloured and patterned rugs you’ll lust after in local cooperatives. The mountains – not just the famous High Atlas but also the Rif and suntanned ranges leading to Saharan oases – offer simple, breathtaking pleasures: night skies glistening in the thin air, and views over a fluffy cloudbank from the Tizi n’Test pass. On lower ground, there are rugged coastlines, waterfalls and caves in forested hills, and the mighty desert.
The varied terrain may inform your dreams, but it shapes the very lives of Morocco’s Berbers, Arabs and Saharawis. Despite encroaching modernity, with motorways joining mosques and kasbahs as man-made features of the landscape, Moroccan people remain closely connected to the environment. The nomadic southern ‘Blue Men’ brave the desert’s burning expanses in robes and turbans, with mobile phones in hand. Likewise, traditional life continues – with tweaks – in the techniques of Berber carpet makers, in date cooperatives, in medina spice trading, and in the lifestyles in mountain hamlets and ports like Essaouira.
Often exotic, sometimes overwhelming and always unexpected, these ancient centres are bursting with Maghrebi mystique and madness: the perfect complement to the serene countryside. When you hit town and join the crowds, you follow a fine tradition of nomads and traders stretching back centuries. Unesco has bestowed World Heritage status on the Fez medina, the world’s largest living medieval Islamic city, and on the carnivalesque street-theatre of the Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh.
Why I Love Morocco
I first went to Morocco as a backpacking student in 1993. I didn’t plan it – another trip had fallen through – but it was one of the happiest accidents of my life. I got wonderfully lost in the medina in Fez, got blisters climbing Jebel Toubkal, sunburn in the desert in Merzouga and hypnotised by the grand spectacle of Marrakesh’s Djemaa el-Fna. Most importantly, it inspired me to come back, and over the last 20 years I’ve spent more time exploring this amazing land than any other country on the planet.
Meeting the Moroccan people involves nothing more than sitting in a cafe and waiting for your mint tea to brew. The trick is to leave enough time to watch the world go by with the locals when there’s so much else to fit in: hiking up North Africa’s highest peak, learning to roll couscous, camel trekking, shopping in the souqs, getting lost in the medina, and sweating in the hammam. Between the activities, you can sleep in the famous riads, relax on panoramic terraces and grand squares, and mop up tajines flavoured with saffron and argan.
Trekking the unexplored mountains of Morocco
Morocco is blessed with some of the world’s most dramatic and beautiful mountains, many of which only see a handful of travellers every year; others remain totally unexplored by foreigners...
Get lost in a Moroccan souq
Who knew shopping could be so enlightening? You can glimpse a maâlem’s mosaic techniques, learn Berber sunburn remedies from apothecaries and get the ceremonial mint-tea treatment in carpet shops...
How to cook like a local on the streets of Morocco
In Morocco, it's one thing to eat on the street, but it's another thing entirely to cook on it. When a friend in the Fès medina said she wanted to teach me how to make tanjia, a slow-cooked stew, I was interested...