Things to do in Western Mongolia
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Kazakh Tour
Friendly guide and owner Dosjan Khabyl has tailor-made trips throughout Bayan-Ölgii and leads trekking tours around Tavan Bogd. He speaks English, Mongolian, Russian and Kazakh, and gets good reviews from travellers. The Ölgii office is next to Pamukkale restaurant.
reviewed
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Javkhlant Tolgoi
This hilltop near the river and just to the north of the main street features a pavilion, nine stupas and the concrete likenesses of an elk, ibex and argali sheep. The views from the top are good. To the northeast, about 3km away, you can barely make out the remains of the old Manchu military garrison (GPS: N 47°44.922', E 96°52.198'). It is possible to walk to the garrison in about 30 minutes, though there's not much to see and it is generally regarded by locals as a waste dump.
reviewed
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Altai Craft
This project employs 40 women to create traditional Kazakh handicrafts. You can visit the workshop, watch how the products are made and even take a free one-hour lesson in chain-stitch embroidery. Items available include chalk bags, yoga mats, bike bags, cushion covers and wall hangings. A book exchange is also available. The workshop is behind the market and a little hard to find so you may want to call ahead.
reviewed
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Aulum Sayajim beer garden
For a beer in a more quiet atmosphere than the disco, try the Aulum Sayajim beer garden, near the police station. The walled compound contains several cabanas and a tent. On Fridays, the beer is covered with towels so as not to offend the local Muslim population, but they will still sneak you a bottle. The gers nearby are actually for rent, but would you really want to sleep in a beer garden?
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Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area
Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area (712,545 hectares) Consists of four separate areas: Uvs Nuur, Türgen Uul, Tsagaan Shuvuut Uul and Altan Els. Contains everything from desert sand dunes to snowfields, marsh to mountain forest. Snow leopards, wolves, foxes, deers and ibex are among the animals protected. Part of the Man and the Biosphere Unesco programme, and the Ramsar Wetland Convention.
reviewed
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Pamukkale
A welcome addition to the local restaurant scene, Pamukkale is a Turkish-run outfit that serves authentic kebabs and Turkish soups. Unfortunately the doner plate is never available (the locals don't like it) but you may be able to score a tasty chicken dish. The Turkish desserts are also excellent but portions are miniscule so you may need to order a few to satisfy your sweet tooth.
reviewed
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Aimag Museum
The comprehensive Aimag Museum has the usual stuff plus a section on the 16th- century Oirad leader Amarsanaa (the chain-mail jacket is supposedly his). There's a newly built wing dedicated solely to the reign of one-time dictator Yu Tsedenbal (who was born in Uvs), featuring photos of the man with other commie leaders like Fidel Castro and Ho Chi Minh.
reviewed
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Hot Springs
About 25km northwest of Khoton Nuur you can also visit Rashany Ikh Uul, an area of 35 Hot Springs . The springs (which are really just luke-warm) are facilitated by Aksu Rashan Suvlal (9942 2979; per person with breakfast US$10), a small ger camp run by a local entrepreneur. The springs are around 33°C to 36°C and cost US$5 to enter.
reviewed
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D
Market
The Market has a decent selection of food supplies imported from Russia and China. Traditional Kazakh skullcaps and jackets can also be found amid the chaos. How and why the shopkeepers have 'Boots' plastic bags is a mystery to us. There's a small charge to get into the enclosed part of the market where all the food is.
reviewed
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Art Shop Burkit
Local craftsman Narbek Khasim is a silversmith by trade but has recently entered the eagle-hunting accessory market, producing gauntlets, eagle hoods, belts and leather goods. He speaks English and is also a two-time tae kwon do national champion (of Kazakhstan) - one of Ölgii's more interesting characters.
reviewed
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Dechinravjaalin Khiid
Dechinravjaalin Khiid was originally founded on this spot in 1738. It contained seven temples and 2000 monks; an artist's rendition hangs inside the office of the head monk. The place was pulverised in 1937 thanks to Stalin, and its current incarnation consists of a concrete ger and about 20 welcoming monks.
reviewed
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Naran Café
The Naran serves up some decent plates of meat with either ondogtei (egg), chinjuurtei (peppers) or moogtei (mushrooms). Vegetarians can order a plate of salads and rice (but the potato salad will invariably come with bits of ham). After 21:00 it turns into a very dark disco.
reviewed
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Mosque
Ölgii's Mosque and madrasah (Islamic place of learning) is worth a quick look, especially on Friday at lunchtime when weekly prayers are held, though you may not be allowed inside. The mosque holds the offices of the Islamic Centre of Mongolia. Its unusual angle is due to its orientation to Mecca.
reviewed
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Khuiten Uul Base Camp
Even if you are not a climber, it's worth trekking up to the Khuiten Uul Base Camp, where you can get stunning views of all the peaks as well as the 12km-long Potanii glacier, which tumbles out of the range. It's possible to walk onto the glacier but be careful of deep snows and crevasses.
reviewed
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Altai Tavan Bogd National Park
Altai Tavan Bogd National Park (636,161 hectares) Takes in Tavan Bogd, which includes Mongolia's highest mountain, and the stunning lakes of Khoton, Khurgan and Dayan. Fauna includes argali sheep, ibex, maral (Asiatic red deer), stone marten, deer, elk, Altai snowcock and eagles.
reviewed
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Chigistei Restaurant
Large restaurant with a retro-Soviet décor and Mongolian meals. The owner, Tuya, plans to expand the menu to include cheeseburgers(!) and Korean dishes, so it's worth checking out. Tuya speaks English and can help travellers find guides and horses for countryside trips.
reviewed
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Tsagaan Sala Petroglyphs
The best petroglyphs in the area, if not all of Central Asia, can be found at Tsagaan Sala (aka Baga Oigor), on the route between Ulaankhus and Tavan Bogd. The drawings, more than 10,000 of them, are scattered over a 15km area; you'll need a guide to find the best ones.
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Ikh Mongol
Reputedly the best place in town, Ikh Mongol has a diverse menu with Mongolian and Chinese dishes. Seating is in big red booths and the walls are designed like the interior of a ger. It's owned by a local kingpin who runs a similar restaurant in Khovd city.
reviewed
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Toganai Shaykhana
Opposite the Bastau Hotel, this tiny café serves excellent buuz (steamed mutton dumplings; around Tug70) and greasy khuushuur (fried mutton pancakes; around Tug150) served with a delicious khaluun nogoo (chilli sauce).
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History Museum
The History Museum, on the main street, contains a mammoth bone, some fine religious art and a tsam mask, worn during lama dances, made from coral. There is also a fine collection of photographs taken of Uliastai in the early 20th century.
reviewed
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Khurgan Nuur
The shoreline of Khurgan Nuur is dry and exposed. Few people travel along its southern shore but if you are going this way there is a stupa-like construction and several burial sites. Nearby is a balbal (GPS: N 48°32.006', E 88°28.549').
reviewed
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Aimag Museum Gift Shop
If you are on the hunt for Kazakh wall hangings and felt rugs, check out the gift shop in the Aimag Museum. It has antiques and new items including fox fur hats (US$70), wall hangings (US$70) and felt mats (US$40).
reviewed
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Petroglyphs
Close to Tavan Bogd, Sheveed Uul (3350m) contains some fascinating Petroglyphs depicting wild animals and hunting scenes. Keep your eyes peeled (and binoculars ready) for ibex which inhabit the mountain above.
reviewed
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Qinggis Pub & Restaurant
A couple of doors down from Ikh Mongol is the Qinggis Pub, another restaurant that goes beyond goulash (try one of their soups or a steak). Guns and daggers mounted on the wall add a touch of the Wild West.
reviewed
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Otau Cooperative
Sells Kazakh handbags (around Tug6000 to around Tug100), felt mats (around Tug100 to around Tug150) hats (around Tug7000) and other handicrafts made by around 30 local women. It's next to the Bastau Hotel.
reviewed
