Things to do in Ölgii
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A
Kazakh Tour
Friendly guide and owner Dosjan Khabyl has tailor-made trips throughout Bayan-Ölgii and leads trekking tours around Tavan Bogd. He speaks English, Mongolian, Russian and Kazakh, and gets good reviews from travellers. The Ölgii office is next to Pamukkale restaurant.
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Altai Craft
This project employs 40 women to create traditional Kazakh handicrafts. You can visit the workshop, watch how the products are made and even take a free one-hour lesson in chain-stitch embroidery. Items available include chalk bags, yoga mats, bike bags, cushion covers and wall hangings. A book exchange is also available. The workshop is behind the market and a little hard to find so you may want to call ahead.
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Aulum Sayajim beer garden
For a beer in a more quiet atmosphere than the disco, try the Aulum Sayajim beer garden, near the police station. The walled compound contains several cabanas and a tent. On Fridays, the beer is covered with towels so as not to offend the local Muslim population, but they will still sneak you a bottle. The gers nearby are actually for rent, but would you really want to sleep in a beer garden?
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Pamukkale
A welcome addition to the local restaurant scene, Pamukkale is a Turkish-run outfit that serves authentic kebabs and Turkish soups. Unfortunately the doner plate is never available (the locals don't like it) but you may be able to score a tasty chicken dish. The Turkish desserts are also excellent but portions are miniscule so you may need to order a few to satisfy your sweet tooth.
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Market
The Market has a decent selection of food supplies imported from Russia and China. Traditional Kazakh skullcaps and jackets can also be found amid the chaos. How and why the shopkeepers have 'Boots' plastic bags is a mystery to us. There's a small charge to get into the enclosed part of the market where all the food is.
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Art Shop Burkit
Local craftsman Narbek Khasim is a silversmith by trade but has recently entered the eagle-hunting accessory market, producing gauntlets, eagle hoods, belts and leather goods. He speaks English and is also a two-time tae kwon do national champion (of Kazakhstan) - one of Ölgii's more interesting characters.
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Mosque
Ölgii's Mosque and madrasah (Islamic place of learning) is worth a quick look, especially on Friday at lunchtime when weekly prayers are held, though you may not be allowed inside. The mosque holds the offices of the Islamic Centre of Mongolia. Its unusual angle is due to its orientation to Mecca.
reviewed
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Toganai Shaykhana
Opposite the Bastau Hotel, this tiny café serves excellent buuz (steamed mutton dumplings; around Tug70) and greasy khuushuur (fried mutton pancakes; around Tug150) served with a delicious khaluun nogoo (chilli sauce).
reviewed
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E
Aimag Museum Gift Shop
If you are on the hunt for Kazakh wall hangings and felt rugs, check out the gift shop in the Aimag Museum. It has antiques and new items including fox fur hats (US$70), wall hangings (US$70) and felt mats (US$40).
reviewed
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Otau Cooperative
Sells Kazakh handbags (around Tug6000 to around Tug100), felt mats (around Tug100 to around Tug150) hats (around Tug7000) and other handicrafts made by around 30 local women. It's next to the Bastau Hotel.
reviewed
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Aimag Museum
The Aimag Museum gives an excellent overview of Kazakh culture and the geography of Bayan-Ölgii. The 2nd floor is devoted to history, and the 3rd floor has some interesting ethnographic displays.
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Blue Wolf Travel
Offers a variety of trips including winter eagle-hunting tours. The Ölgii office is about 400m south of the ochre-coloured Kazakh National Theatre.
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Nur Danesca
Popular with the local teen set, this modern disco club is behind the mosque. (The over-18 crowd tends to patronise the disco in the Duman Hotel.)
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Sunkhar Supermarket
A convenient place to pick up food and supplies is the Sunkhar Supermarket, just west of the Tavan Bogd Hotel.
reviewed
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Bayan-Auul Tour
Offers trips to all areas of Bayan-Ölgii. There is no office; contact Bolatbek by email or phone.
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Tsengel Khairkhan
Mongol-run restaurant with reasonable local fare and salads to accommodate vegetarians.
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Ms Zoya
Local teacher who can provide Kazakh language lessons. Fees negotiable.
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Blue Wolf
Run by the folks at Blue Wolf Tours, this café is in a bright room, its walls decorated with dramatic photos of eagle-hunters and the Altai Mountains. The menu includes delights such as American breakfast (eggs, sausage and bread) and Kazakh breakfast (sausage and apple). Vegetarians will appreciate some of the salads. The taco salad isn't particularly Mexican but does taste good. Kazakh crafts are also sold here.
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