Naran Tuul Market

Naran Tuul Market, east of the centre, is also known as the Black Market (Khar Zakh), but it's not the sort of place where you go to change money illegally and smuggle goods - though this certainly happens.

The market is huge, one of the biggest in Asia and in summer up to 60,000 people a day squeeze inside. There's an around Tug50 entrance fee. You can buy cheap gear for a camping trip, among other things, but the real reason to visit is to marvel at this enormous emporium.

An undercover area has a decent selection of clothes, such as bags, leather boots and fake North Face jackets. This is also one of the cheapest places to get traditional Mongolian clothes such as a del (around Tug350) and jacket (around Tug300). Towards the back of the market you'll find saddles, riding tack and all the ingredients needed to build your own ger. The back area is also where you'll find antique and coin dealers, but they don't issue any official documentation (unlike the antique shops in town), making it illegal to export. New items, such as the snuff bottles (made in China anyway), can be purchased without worry.

The market is notorious for pickpockets and bag slashers so don't bring anything you don't want to lose. Don't carry anything on your back, and strap your money belt to your body. If you feel a group of men blocking your way from the front, chances are their friends are probing your pockets from behind.

A taxi to the market should cost about around Tug1000 from the centre of town. Minibuses come here from Peace Ave (look for the sign 'Зах'). To walk from the Square will take about 45 minutes. Try to avoid Saturday and Sunday afternoons, when the crowds can be horrendous.