Sights in Northern Mongolia
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Khövsgöl Nuur
Known as the Blue Pearl of the Mongolia, Khövsgöl Nuur is an extraordinary lake that stretches 136km deep into the Siberian taiga. The lake and mountains that surround it form the basis for this popular national park, a major destination for both Mongolian and international tourists.
In surface area, this is the second-largest lake (2760 sq km) in Mongolia, surpassed in size only by Uvs Nuur, a shallow, salty lake in the western part of the country. But Khövsgöl Nuur (sometimes transliterated as Hövsgöl or Hovsgol) is Mongolia's deepest lake (up to 262m) as well as the world's 14th-largest source of fresh water - it contains between 1% and 2% of the world's fresh water …
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Friendship Monument
The communist Friendship Monument is worth a quick look. On the way from the town centre you pass a fine Marx mural and a picture of Lenin bolted to the wall. A little further to the east, the ovoo (a shamanistic collection of stones, wood or other offerings) is impressive if you haven't seen too many before. The hills north of the monument and south of the stadium are great for short hikes.
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Eastern Shore
The eastern shore is less mountainous than the west, but offers spectacular views across the lake. There is wildlife, golden fields of grass and plenty of fishing holes. It gets far fewer visitors than the western shore making it a great destination for travellers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience. The main drawback to this side of the lake is the appalling road that heads up to Khankh, possibly the worst stretch of road we encountered in 15,000km of overland travel! Expect mud, rocks, roots and the odd collapsed bridge.
From Khatgal, head for the bridge over the Egiin Gol, where you may need to ask directions. The trail meanders over some hills and continues past…
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Amarbayasgalant Khiid
Amarbayasgalant Khiid was originally built between 1727 and 1737 by the Manchu emperor Yongzheng, and dedicated to the great Mongolian Buddhist and sculptor, Zanabazar, whose mummified body was moved here in 1779. The monastery is in the Manchu style, down to the inscriptions, symmetrical layout and imperial colour scheme.
The communists moseyed in around 1937, but 'only' destroyed 10 out of the 37 temples and statues, possibly because of sympathetic and procrastinating local military commanders. The monastery was extensively restored between 1975 and 1990 with the help of Unesco. These days about 30 monks live in the monastery, compared with more than 2000 in 1936.
The te…
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Copper Mine
The open-cut Copper Mine, easily seen to the north of the city, is one of the 10-largest copper mines in the world. It's also a tremendous burden on the country's infrastructure and consumes nearly 50% of Mongolia's electricity.
Open-cut mining is more damaging to the environment but infinitely safer than digging mine shafts below the surface. Also, since this particular mountain is almost solid copper and molybdenum ore, this is the only practical way to reach it. Despite the destruction of the mountain, the long-term environmental effects aren't as bad as the gold mines in nearby Zaamar, where rivers are being polluted and poisoned.
The mine accounts for around 40% of …
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Western Shore
From Khatgal, a reasonable road first heads southwest before swinging northeast across several dry riverbeds and over the pass, Jankhai Davaa, 17km from Khatgal, where you receive your first magical glimpse of the lake. The road continues past the gorgeous headlands of Jankhai, once a Russian scientist station, and Toilogt, pronounced 'Toy-logt' but routinely mispronounced 'Toilet' by most travellers, where there is a rash of ger camps. The road then gradually deteriorates. A jeep can travel about 10km past Toilogt, after which the trail becomes overgrown and is best managed on horseback for the trip up to Jiglegiin Am, almost exactly halfway up the western shore. From Ji…
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Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid
Like most monasteries in Mongolia, this one (built in 1992) replaces the original monastery, Bangiin Khuree, which was destroyed in 1937. About 1000 monks lived and worshipped at Bangiin Khuree before they were arrested and, presumably, executed. The remains of several stupas from the old monastery complex can be seen nearby.
The modern monastery contains statues of Tsongkhapa and Sakyamuni and features a painting of the old monastery layout. About 30 monks now reside there. The monastery is about 2.5km southwest of Bulgan City and is hidden behind some hills. The run down pavilion next to the temple, called Divajin, was built in 1876
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Khatanbaatar Magsarjav Mausoleum
Located across the stream and at the top of a hill, this curious blue building looks like a concrete ger but is actually a mausoleum in the shape of a hat. It allegedly contains the remains of Khatanbaatar Magsarjav, a key figure in the 1911 Revolution, who helped to liberate the city of Khovd from Chinese rule. There are some murals of battle scenes inside but to see them you'll need to get the keys from the caretaker. Ask at the Aimag Museum.
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Danzandarjaa Khiid
The history of this monastery is unclear, but the original (Möröngiin Khuree) was built around 1890 and was home to 2000 monks. It was rebuilt and reopened in June 1990, and now has 40 monks of all ages. It's a charming place, designed in the shape of a concrete ger, and contains a great collection of thangka. The monastery is just back from the main road, on the way to the airport. Visitors are always welcome.
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Museum of the West Road Military Unit
The West Road Military Unit was a key force in freeing Mongolia from White Russian rule in 1921, their history is described in the small Museum of the West Road Military Unit, 2.5km south of Bulgan. The building itself dates from 1668 and was used a shop until being transformed into a military post in 1921. Choibalsan and Khatanbaatar Magsarjav both stayed here during Mongolia's military campaigns of the early 20th century.
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Museum of Darkhan-Uul
This museum contains a well-laid-out collection of archaeological findings, traditional clothing, religious artefacts and a few obligatory stuffed animals. Its most valued piece is the original painting of Lenin meeting Sükhbaatar, a classic work of myth-making, painted by B Tsultem in 1953. The museum is upstairs in a building on the northern side of the shopping square, across from the minibus and taxi stand.
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Museum
Given the variety of wildlife in the aimag, stuffed animals are, not surprisingly, the main feature of the Museum . There's a large tusk from a woolly mammoth, but you won't see one of those in the flesh - they haven't inhabited this region for more than 40,000 years. Photographic exhibits of the Tsaatan people are also intriguing. The museum is housed inside the local Drama Theatre on the town square.
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Museum of Orkhon Aimag
Opened in 1983 and hidden in a concrete complex on the right side of the Marx mural, the small Museum of Orkhon Aimag includes a few oddities including a model of the copper mine (you can see it in 'day' or 'night') and a model of a modern ger with a TV inside. Look out for the two-headed calf, which hopefully is no indication of what the mine is doing to the local water supply.
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Modon Huys
Modon Huys is an island almost exactly in the middle of the lake. Nomadic Expeditions runs kayaking trips in the region. Travelling by kayak allows you to see the lake without the strain of driving along the appalling roads. The lake is full of glorious little coves, perfect for camping and fishing. Garage 24 can rent kayaks for around Tug250 per day.
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Khar Us
Khar Us is a series of springs surrounded by meadows of beautiful wildflowers. In June locals flock here to eat the bailius fish for its medicinal properties (these fish are smoked and served with wild green onions, or sometimes boiled). This makes a great destination to reach on horseback - three days from Khatgal.
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Kharaagiin Khiid
Probably the most interesting sight in Darkhan is this monastery. Housed in a pretty log cabin in the old town, it has a host of protector deities and a tree encased in blue khatag (silk scarves). Until 1989 the building served as an elementary school.
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Mogoi Mod
The Mogoi Mod, located 4km from Khatgal, past the airport, towards Jankhai Davaa (Jankhai Pass). This tree, which curves into a unique spiral, is honoured with hadak (ritual scarves).
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Aimag Museum
The Aimag Museum on the main street has some information on obscure sights in the aimag; a display on J Gurragchaa, Mongolia's first man in space; and some interesting old photos.
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Seated Buddha
One of two new monuments across the road from each other, near the roundabout between the new and old towns. Both are congregating points for locals who hang out here at sunset.
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Morin Khuur Statue
One of two new monuments across the road from each other, near the roundabout between the new and old towns. Both are congregating points for locals who hang out here at sunset.
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Mining Museum
The Soviet-built Mining Museum belongs to the copper-mining company, Erdenet Concern. It's on the 2nd floor of the Culture Palace on the town square, and is worth a look.
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Khutagt Ekh Datsan
If you have time drop by the Khutagt Ekh Datsan, a temple near the town square. Unusual for a Mongolian monastery, its head lama is a woman.
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Ethnography Museum
Next door, the Ethnography Museum has a few interesting exhibits, such as ancient surgical instruments, airag churners and saddles.
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