Things to do in Khövsgöl
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Khövsgöl Nuur
Known as the Blue Pearl of the Mongolia, Khövsgöl Nuur is an extraordinary lake that stretches 136km deep into the Siberian taiga. The lake and mountains that surround it form the basis for this popular national park, a major destination for both Mongolian and international tourists.
In surface area, this is the second-largest lake (2760 sq km) in Mongolia, surpassed in size only by Uvs Nuur, a shallow, salty lake in the western part of the country. But Khövsgöl Nuur (sometimes transliterated as Hövsgöl or Hovsgol) is Mongolia's deepest lake (up to 262m) as well as the world's 14th-largest source of fresh water - it contains between 1% and 2% of the world's fresh water …
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Eastern Shore
The eastern shore is less mountainous than the west, but offers spectacular views across the lake. There is wildlife, golden fields of grass and plenty of fishing holes. It gets far fewer visitors than the western shore making it a great destination for travellers seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience. The main drawback to this side of the lake is the appalling road that heads up to Khankh, possibly the worst stretch of road we encountered in 15,000km of overland travel! Expect mud, rocks, roots and the odd collapsed bridge.
From Khatgal, head for the bridge over the Egiin Gol, where you may need to ask directions. The trail meanders over some hills and continues past…
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Western Shore
From Khatgal, a reasonable road first heads southwest before swinging northeast across several dry riverbeds and over the pass, Jankhai Davaa, 17km from Khatgal, where you receive your first magical glimpse of the lake. The road continues past the gorgeous headlands of Jankhai, once a Russian scientist station, and Toilogt, pronounced 'Toy-logt' but routinely mispronounced 'Toilet' by most travellers, where there is a rash of ger camps. The road then gradually deteriorates. A jeep can travel about 10km past Toilogt, after which the trail becomes overgrown and is best managed on horseback for the trip up to Jiglegiin Am, almost exactly halfway up the western shore. From Ji…
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Danzandarjaa Khiid
The history of this monastery is unclear, but the original (Möröngiin Khuree) was built around 1890 and was home to 2000 monks. It was rebuilt and reopened in June 1990, and now has 40 monks of all ages. It's a charming place, designed in the shape of a concrete ger, and contains a great collection of thangka. The monastery is just back from the main road, on the way to the airport. Visitors are always welcome.
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Museum
Given the variety of wildlife in the aimag, stuffed animals are, not surprisingly, the main feature of the Museum . There's a large tusk from a woolly mammoth, but you won't see one of those in the flesh - they haven't inhabited this region for more than 40,000 years. Photographic exhibits of the Tsaatan people are also intriguing. The museum is housed inside the local Drama Theatre on the town square.
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Modon Huys
Modon Huys is an island almost exactly in the middle of the lake. Nomadic Expeditions runs kayaking trips in the region. Travelling by kayak allows you to see the lake without the strain of driving along the appalling roads. The lake is full of glorious little coves, perfect for camping and fishing. Garage 24 can rent kayaks for around Tug250 per day.
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Khar Us
Khar Us is a series of springs surrounded by meadows of beautiful wildflowers. In June locals flock here to eat the bailius fish for its medicinal properties (these fish are smoked and served with wild green onions, or sometimes boiled). This makes a great destination to reach on horseback - three days from Khatgal.
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Khos Torkh
Easily spotted, this local watering hole features two giant beer barrels outside its entrance. The local drink of choice is Kvas, a brew made from fermented rye bread. The alcohol content is so low (1%) that you'd need to drink a few gallons of the stuff to feel any of its effects.
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Mogoi Mod
The Mogoi Mod, located 4km from Khatgal, past the airport, towards Jankhai Davaa (Jankhai Pass). This tree, which curves into a unique spiral, is honoured with hadak (ritual scarves).
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Chinggis Bar
Depending on your perspective, the outer space theme here seems totally surreal or completely appropriate for northern Mongolia. Chinese and Mongolian food served by day, beer by night.
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Orgil Restaurant
Amid the row of downtown shops and guanz. Has an English-language menu that includes cream soup, goulash and vegetable khuushuur(fried meat pancake).
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Jaragalan Café
The streetside patio at this Mongolian restaurant is worth visiting on a warm day. It's just northwest of the square.
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Saraa
Local English-speaking guide Saraa can help with logistics and travel in the area.
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Antique Souvenir House
Sells maps, books, antiques and locally produced handicrafts. On the main road.
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Orgil Bathhouse
On the east side of the market, this is the newest bathhouse in town.
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Tes Supermarket
Located on the main road, this is one of several shopping markets.
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