Western Shore

From Khatgal, a reasonable road first heads southwest before swinging northeast across several dry riverbeds and over the pass, Jankhai Davaa, 17km from Khatgal, where you receive your first magical glimpse of the lake. The road continues past the gorgeous headlands of Jankhai, once a Russian scientist station, and Toilogt, pronounced 'Toy-logt' but routinely mispronounced 'Toilet' by most travellers, where there is a rash of ger camps. The road then gradually deteriorates. A jeep can travel about 10km past Toilogt, after which the trail becomes overgrown and is best managed on horseback for the trip up to Jiglegiin Am, almost exactly halfway up the western shore. From Jiglegiin Am you could take the western trail to Renchinlkhumbe, on the way to Tsagaannuur.