Introducing Northern Mongolia

Log cabins, pine forests and monstrous fish do not conform to the classic image of Mongolia’s desolate steppes. But strung along its northern border are three aimags (provinces) of such lush and serene vegetation that one might confuse them for bits of Switzerland. Selenge, Bulgan and Khövsgöl aimags actually have more in common with Siberia than Mongolia. Winters are long and cold, with snow staying on the ground until May. Summers bring wildflowers and the snowmelt fills up lakes and rivers, many of which flow north to Lake Baikal in Siberia. The area teems with elk, reindeer and bear, and the rivers and lakes brim with fish. Beautiful Khövsgöl Nuur, the major feature of the region, pokes Siberia in the belly.

Although the majority of the people are Khalkh, here are also Buriats and Turkic-speaking peoples, including the Tsaatan, the reindeer herders. Shamanism has long been the faith of choice in the forests and, after decades of persecution, it is being revived and encouraged.

The fragile environment is crucial to the economy and this area is a major battleground between environmentalists and business interests that want to log the forests and explore for minerals. Although ecotourism is making inroads, the concept of sustainable development is still relatively unknown. Old hunters lament that wildlife is now more difficult to spot.

If travelling by train to or from Russia, you’ll pass through Selenge. Make a diversion and take in the wondrous Amarbayasgalant Khiid or horse trek by the shores of Khövsgöl Nuur. These are also attractions for domestic tourists; you may come across a vanload of urban Mongolians off to see the sights, stopping en route to taste the local airag (fermented mare milk) or pick berries in the forests.