Things to do in Töv
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Mandshir Khiid to Ulaanbaatar Hike
This approach to Tsetseegün from the south side is the easiest route by far. As you face the monastery, cut over to your right (east) until you get to the stream. Just follow the stream until it nearly disappears and then head north. About three hours' walking should bring you out over a ridge into a broad boggy meadow, which you'll have to cross. If you've walked straight to the north, the twin rocky outcrops of the summit should be right in front of you.
When you start to see Ulaanbaatar in the distance, you're on the highest ridge and close to the two large ovoo (a shamanistic pyramid-shaped collection of stones as an offering to the gods) on the summit (GPS: N47° 48.…
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Stepperiders Camp
Horses are available from Stepperiders Camp, just off the main Ulaanbaatar-Zuunmod road. Stepperiders is run by Minde, a recommended local horse guide who can give lessons, instructions and support to independent travellers planning their own expedition. This is a perfect place to test ride a Mongolian horse before a longer trip. Rides are great value at US$35 to US$50 per day and include pick-up, drop-off, guides, horses, food and even entry fees to the national park.
As this camp is something of a hang-out for dedicated horse riders, you may be able to find partners for a trip.
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Mandshir Khiid
For the 350 monks who once called this place home, the gorgeous setting around this monastery must have been a daily inspiration. Like most monasteries in Mongolia, Mandshir Khiid was destroyed in 1937 by Stalin's thugs, but was partially restored in the 1990s. Just 6km northeast of Zuunmod and 46km by road from Ulaanbaatar, the monastery is a perfect half-day trip from the capital, or can be used as a starting point for hikes into the Strictly Protected Area.
The main temple has been restored and converted into a museum, but the other buildings in the area remain in ruins. The monastery and museum are not as impressive as those in Ulaanbaatar - it is the beautiful forest…
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Günjiin Süm
Surrounded by magnificent forests and not far from a lovely river, the Baruun Bayan Gol, the Buddhist temple of Günjiin Süm was built in 1740 by Efu Dondovdorj to commemorate the death of his Manchurian wife, Amarlangui. Once part of a huge monastery containing about 70 sq metres of blue walls, five other temples and a tower, Günjiin Süm is one of very few Manchurian-influenced temples in Mongolia to survive over the centuries.
Only the main temple, and some of the walls of the monastery, remain. Unlike most other monasteries in Mongolia, Günjiin Süm was not destroyed during the Stalinist purges, but simply fell into ruin from neglect, vandalism and theft.
The temple…
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Fly Mongolia
Adrenaline junkies may want to spend an afternoon at the base camp of Fly Mongolia, a burgeoning adventure centre run by local aviation enthusiast, Alex Amiya. Tandem paragliding (US$35) and ultralight aircraft tours (US$100) are two popular activities. With more time you can take a four-day paragliding lesson (US$180). Alex can teach in English, French, Russian or Mongolian. Note that spring is a dangerous time to paraglide in Mongolia because of the unpredictable winds. September is best for beginners. Fly Mongolia also has 4WD go-carts (per hour US$15). The camp is off the main Gachuurt road, 1km before Hotel Mongolia (look for the wooden sign by the road). Be warned t…
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Horse Rides
Travelling on a horse is the perfect way to see a lot of the park, including Günjiin Süm and the side valleys of Tuul Gol. To travel long distances, you will need to have experience, or a guide, and bring most of your own gear. Horses can be hired through any of the ger camps, but you'll pay high tourist prices (around US$35 to US$40 a day).
A mob of horse boys hang around Turtle Rock offering horse riding at US$5 per hour, or somewhere between US$12 and US$20 for the day. Alternatively, approach one of the Mongolian families who live around the park and hire one of their horses, though they may not be much cheaper.
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Zaisan Route Hike
It is more of an uphill battle to Tsetseegün if you start from the Zaisan Memorial. From the memorial, head up the road past the ger camp and enter the forest. Look for the yellow trail markers, which veer left when you've reached the top. From here, the slope levels off and becomes an easy walk through a pleasant forest for the next two hours. If you stick to the yellow tags you'll follow the quickest route to Mandshir but will miss reaching Tsetseegün. All up, this is a 15km walk.
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Observatory Route Hike
This is the easiest route on the Ulaanbaatar side, mainly because you hit the fewest boulders. However, this route is also the least interesting. The walk to Tsetseegün and over to Mandshir takes about six hours. The problem is that getting to the Observatory ('Khureltogoot' in Mongolian) is difficult. You could catch a bus to Nalaikh and get out at the toll gate, then walk the last 6km up the hill. Otherwise, you'll have to take a taxi.
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Central Province Museum
The chief attraction in Zuunmod is the Central Province Museum, opposite the southeast corner of the park - look for the sign in English. There are exhibits on local history and a section of stuffed animals including an enormous moose. It also has some interesting black-and-white photos of Mandshir Khiid, including the once-regular tsam (lama dances, performed by monks wearing masks during religious ceremonies).
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Raft Trips
Tuul Gol, which starts in the park and flows to Ulaanbaatar and beyond, is one of the best places in the country for rafting. The best section of the river starts a few kilometres north of Terelj village, and wraps around the park until it reaches Gachuurt, near Ulaanbaatar. Nomadic Journeys in Ulaanbaatar runs rafting trips here for around US$45 per day (minimum four people).
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Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area
To the northeast, Gorkhi-Terelj National Park joins the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area, comprising over 1.2 million hectares of the Töv, Selenge and Khentii aimags. The Khan Khentii park is almost completely uninhabited by humans, but it is home to endangered species of moose, brown bears and weasels to name but a few, and to over 250 species of birds.
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Xanadu
Frenchman Côme Doerflinger runs adventure trips through his outfit Xanadu, based in Gachuurt. He mainly runs horse trips, and has French, Russian and English saddles. Côme also has kayaks and canoes that you can use to float down Tuul Gol, and mountain bikes which are great for excursions up Gachuurt's side valleys towards Terelj.
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Old Man Reading a Book
For more sedate walks in the Terelj ger camp area, just follow the main road and pick a side valley to stroll along at your leisure. From the main road, look out for two interesting rock formations like Old Man Reading a Book, which can be spotted on the left side of the road when travelling south from Terelj village.
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Turtle Rock
For more sedate walks in the Terelj ger camp area, just follow the main road and pick a side valley to stroll along at your leisure. From the main road, look out for interesting rock formations like Turtle Rock, in a side valley to the south of Terelj, which really looks like one at a certain angle.
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Chinggis Khaan Country Club
If you want to play golf, the Chinggis Khaan Country Club is just off the road in Gorkhi valley. Green fee is around Tug600, a caddy is around Tug120 and club rental is around Tug240. A second course is at the UB2 hotel.
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Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid
Worth a brief visit is Dashchoinkhorlon Khiid, a 700m walk directly east of the department store and across the creek. If you ask the monks, you can go inside the temple. Ceremonies start at around 11:00 on most days.
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Terelj Village
Terelj Village is about 27km from the park entrance, at the end of a paved road. It's in a nice location near the river but there's not much here apart from a few shops, a café and a ger camp.
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Community-Based Tourism Project
A Community-Based Tourism Project at Khustain allows visitors to stay with nomad families, ride horses, learn felt-making and experience daily life in the countryside. See the website for details.
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Stone Monuments
A fun horseback trek takes you to some Turkic Stone Monuments southwest of the park and then on to Tuul Gol. Horse rental is US$12 per day. Contact the park for details.
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Dölgöön Café
Offering an eclectic range of European, Mongolian, Chinese and Korean dishes, Dölgöön Café should have something to suit your tastes.
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Aryapala Initiation & Meditation Centre
Heading north 3km from Turtle Rock you'll reach the Aryapala Initiation & Meditation Centre set on a spectacular rocky hillside.
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Volunteer Program
The park runs a three-week volunteer program where you can help with research. See the website for details.
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Take Off Café
For basic meals try the Take Off Café at the Fly Mongolia base camp( M0232).
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