Things to do in Middle East
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Gold Souq
This pageant of glorious design and spectacular craftsmanship is fun to see even without the intention to buy. The souq comes alive later in the evening, especially before a holiday, when men traditionally express the value of their relationships through buying 22kt gold bangles, or a 'set' comprised of earrings, necklace and bracelet for the women in their family.
Qatari bridal jewellery can cost thousands, but sometimes pieces can be traded back after the wedding for something more readily usable, or even just for cash.
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XVA Gallery
One of Dubai’s best-loved and most reputable galleries, XVA occupies a warren of rooms in a beautifully restored Bastakia courtyard residence. Curators showcase contemporary paintings, sculptures and art installations from regional and international artists. They also organise the annual Bastakiya Art Fair and art-house movie screenings (November to April). The complex also houses the delightful XVA cafe and boutique hotel.
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Gilac
The ambience, décor, music and food presentation at Gilac are more reminiscent of Europe than Iran. But the delicious food is wonderfully Caspian. It’s a favourite of vegetarians, with the mirza ghasemi (IR22,000), borani bademjan (IR25,000) and dokhtar-e luce (‘spoilt girl’, IR27,000) starters all delicious; in combination, they’d happily make a meal on their own. The fish and veal dishes are also excellent.
reviewed
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Khargeen Café
With a choice of open-air, majlis-style dining or a cosy, indoor coffee-and-a-chat, this café-cum-coffeehouse has spilt into a courtyard of lighted trees to make a wonderfully relaxed, atmospheric and Arabian experience. With hubbly-bubblies croaking, fountains splashing, kebabs sizzling and people propped on a variety of cushions and throws, this could almost be part of a Bedouin caravan. Try the hibiscus or cacao drinks or the avocado milkshake.
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Focaccio Bar
The combination of good food at reasonable prices has made this one of the most popular restaurants in town. The speciality of course is focaccia, baked fresh in the taboun (clay oven) and eaten on a sunny patio. A variety of toppings is available and portions are large and reasonably priced; try the Bulgarian cheese and olive spread (32NIS). The menu also includes a nice 350g entrecôte steak, deep-fried calamari and fried mushroom dishes.
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Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop
Way up in north Tehran the Ananda is a gem if you’re a vegetarian, and delightful even if you’re not. Run in association with the Iranian Society of Vegetarians, there’s no chance of finding rogue bits of meat here and the food is both delicious and cheap. We can recommend the Ananda lasagne (IR35,000) and Ananda calzone (IR33,000), the freshly made salad (no plastic wrap!) and the service and setting.
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El-Reda
The weekend papers love to rave about this restaurant in a restored 120-year-old Arab mansion, and for once it's justified. The views of the basilica (stunning from the rooftop terrace), the food (friendly owner Daher Zeidani makes only what he likes and that's traditional Nazareth dishes with a Mediterranean twist) and the atmosphere (occasional live music and poetry) make this one of the better restaurants in the north of Israel.
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Tehran Bazar
The maze of bustling alleys and the bazaris that fill them make Tehran Bazar a fascinating, if somewhat daunting, place to explore. Traders have been hawking their wares on this site for nearly a thousand years, but most of what you see today is less than 200 years old; it’s no architectural jewel. The bazaris are a conservative bunch and there will be far more chadors than bleached hair.
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Buddha Bar
If there are celebs in town, they’ll show up at Buddha Bar, where the dramatic Asian-inspired interiors are decked out with gorgeous chandeliers, a wall of reflective sheer glass, and an enormous Buddha lording over the heathens. The bartenders put on quite a show with their impressive shakes (think Tom Cruise in Cocktail ). Arrive early or prepare to queue; otherwise book dinner for guaranteed admission.
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Vinaigrette
This stylish but affordable restaurant is located on the top floor of the AlQasr, and in keeping with the hotel’s boutique theme, offers gourmet sushi and salads – build your own salad and sushi combo, or let the house choose for you. Mellow jazz complements the superb views over the city, making it a great place for a light dinner before hitting the dance floor downstairs at Nai.
reviewed
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Green Island
Spread across the water in the form of little chalets on stilts (complete with glass floor panels that reveal the fish and the water beneath), this is the place to come if you're after a final splurge or a romantic revival. The menu is a fusion of Arab, Asian and Continental cuisines. Try the locally loved rock lobster bisque, or go for the all-out 'seafood platter Green Island'.
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Fakhr el-Din
The highly recommended Lebanese food and elegant, classy setting in a 1950s villa make this a great place for a minisplurge. In addition to the extensive à la carte selections of hot and cold mezze and meaty mains, there's also a good set menu (minimum four people), which is good value. Alcohol is served. It's about two blocks behind the Iraqi Embassy in Jebel Amman.
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Bat Galim Beach
Ports tend to make a mess of the coast so it's not too surprising that Haifa's beaches are infamously toxic and strewn with garbage. Case in point is Bat Galim Beach , considered one of the best surf breaks in the country and host to international competitions - surfers constantly lament its piles of rusting metal, bricks, concrete, disused furniture and other refuse.
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Haret Jdoudna Complex
The Haret Jdoudna Complex sells an extensive range of crafts including mosaics, ceramics, textiles and clothing. Look out particularly for some exquisite embroidery; many of these items are sponsored by the Arab Cultural Society, which supports Jordanian war widows. Indeed, most items come from local non-profit organisations, including the Noor Al-Hussein Foundation.
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Manta Ray
Spectacularly set on the beach, Manta Ray combines a five-star seafood menu, attentive service and Mediterranean views. Pick a few dishes off the mezze platter (we liked the goat cheese and the eggplant) and then enjoy a main course of roasted scallops, sea bass fillet, grilled shrimp or a juicy steak. It's also a great place for breakfast.
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Best of Iran
11 days (Tehran)
Journey through Iran and experience fascinating Persian culture.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$3,090 -
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Sezzam
This restaurant is so huge, it almost surpasses the sight of skiers and snowboarders heading down the slopes of the adjacent Ski Dubai. With global cuisine labelled under the Flame, Bake or Steam monikers, it's really a food court with style - and a great break on a shopping excursion at this massive mall.
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Grappa
Stylish wooden benches and B&W photos on the wall give this rustic bar a hip feel but it’s the huge windows with views and the summer terrace seating that really draw the crowds. There are decent pizzas, salads and manaqeesh (Arabic bread with herbs) but the drinking takes priority.
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Tannoureen Restaurant
Worth the trek for good Lebanese food, especially mezzes (try the spinach and pine-nut pie) and salads, but it also does a wide selection of Western dishes, grills and fish. Reserve a table in the bright and airy conservatory. The restaurant is easily missed - look for the green wall.
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Akbar Mashti Bastani
Akbar Mashti became famous for his ice cream in the 1950s and today his son continues to sell what he modestly describes as ‘the most famous ice cream in Iran and the world’. Try the pistachio bastani (IR7000) and you’ll probably agree.
reviewed
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Karachi Darbar
A favourite of guest workers and expats with an eye for a biryani bargain, Karachi Darbar keeps ’em well fed with a huge menu of Pakistani, Indian and Chinese specialities – but stick to the Pakistani. Fear not: it’ll be good. No credit cards.
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Greg Coffee
Decorated with kettles and jars of spices and coffee beans, Greg might remind you of your mom's kitchen back home. Aside from the homy feel, you get excellent coffee and brownies, while laptop users can access the free wi-fi.
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Silsal Ceramics
Has a small showroom of superb modern pottery with price tags that are surprisingly reasonable. If you’re coming along Zahran St from 5th Circle, it’s the third small street on the right.
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Lebanese Flower
Abu Dhabi's most popular Lebanese restaurant does delicious mixed grill meats and delicious garlicky chicken shwarmas . They also sell fabulous Lebanese sweets and pastries.
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Babette
Waffles and coffee are the specialities of this popular student hang-out, which is just big enough to fit half a dozen standing patrons.
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