Other sights in Yucatán State
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A
Catedral de San Ildefonso
On the plaza Grande’s east side, on the site of a former Maya temple, is Mérida’s hulking, severe cathedral, begun in 1561 and completed in 1598. Some of the stone from the Maya temple was used in its construction. The massive crucifix behind the altar is Cristo de la Unidad (Christ of Unity), a symbol of reconciliation between those of Spanish and Maya heritage. To the right over the south door is a painting of Tutul Xiu, cacique (indigenous chief) of the town of Maní paying his respects to his ally Francisco de Montejo at T’ho (de Montejo and Xiu jointly defeated the Cocomes; Xiu converted to Christianity, and his descendants still live in Mérida).
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Hacienda Ochil
Lying about 44km south of Mérida, Hacienda Ochil provides a fascinating, though basic, look at how henequén was grown and processed. From the parking lot follow the ‘truck’ tracks – used by the small wheeled carts to haul material to and from the processing plant – to the right around the parklike, restored portion of the hacienda. You’ll pass workshops where you might see locals fashioning handicrafts for sale and a small henequén museum with exhibits illustrating the cultivating, harvesting and processing of the plant. These include pieces of machinery and photos of hacienda life. Iguanas abound.
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Calcehtok Caves
The Calcehtok caves are said by some to comprise the longest dry-cave system on the Yucatán Peninsula. More than 4km have been explored so far, and two of the caves’ 25 vaults exceed 100m in diameter (one has a 30m-high ‘cupola’). The caves hold abundant and impressive natural formations, human and animal remains and plenty of artifacts, including many haltunes (stone basins carved by the Maya to catch water). Archaeologists have found and removed ceramic arrowheads, quartz hammers and other tools, and you can still see low fortifications built by the Maya who sheltered here during the War of the Castes.
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Museo de Arte Sacro
Convento de San Francisco de Asís in Conkal now houses the new Museo de Arte Sacro. This is a small but well-done museum of religious art and artifacts, including 18th- and 19th- century altarpieces and carvings of saints, good historical and archaeological exhibits detailing the foundation (and later restoration) of Yucatán’s monasteries, and contemporary profane and religious artwork. Some of the latter is surprisingly racy. All labeling is in Spanish. Be sure to check out the architecture of the convent itself, including the noria (irrigation system) out back.
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Xlapak
From the entrance gate at Sayil, it’s 6km east to the entrance gate at Xlapak. The name means ‘Old Walls’ in Maya and was a general term among local people for ancient ruins. The ornate palacio at Xlapak ( shla -pak) is quite a bit smaller than those at Kabah and Sayil, only about 20m in length. It’s decorated with the Chac masks, columns and colonnettes, and fretted geometric latticework of the Puuc style. The building is interesting and on a bit of a lean. Plenty of motmots (a colorful bird) brighten up the surrounding forests.
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B
Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán
In a building built in 1906, the Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán is six blocks east of the Plaza Grande. There’s a small rotating exhibit downstairs that features pop art from around Mexico, but honestly, you’re better off heading to any artisan market in the countryside – you’ll see the same style of work, and it won’t cost you a single peso, unless you want to buy something. The upstairs exhibits don’t have any explanatory signs yet, but they give you an idea of how locals embroider huipiles, carve ceremonial masks and weave hammocks.
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Grutas de Loltún
These caverns are the largest, most interesting cave system on the Yucatán Peninsula, and a treasure trove of data for archaeologists. Carbon dating of artifacts found here reveals that humans used the caves 2200 years ago. Chest-high murals of hands, faces, animals and geometric motifs were apparent as recently as 20 years ago, but so many people have touched them that barely a trace remains. Now, visitors to the illuminated caves see mostly natural limestone formations, some of which are quite lovely.
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C
Museo Regional de Antropología
The massive Palacio Cantón houses Yucatán’s regional anthropology museum. Construction of the mansion lasted from 1909 until 1911, and its owner, General Francisco Cantón Rosado (1833–1917), lived here for only six years before his death. The palacio’s splendor and pretension make it a fitting symbol of the grand aspirations of Mérida’s elite during the last years of the Porfiriato, the period from 1876 to 1911 when Porfirio Díaz held despotic sway over Mexico.
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Hacienda Yaxcopoil
This hacienda is 33km southwest of central Mérida. A vast estate that grew and processed henequén, many of its numerous French Renaissance style buildings have undergone picturesque restorations. There’s a small 17th-century museum offering glimpses at the (now defunct) giant rasping machines that turned the leaves into fiber. Frequent buses pass Yaxcopoil running between Mérida and Ticul, but it’s easiest to drive here.
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Museum
The nearest town to Uxmal is Santa Elena. It was originally called Nohcacab, and was virtually razed in 1847 in the War of the Castes. ‘Ele-na’ means burnt houses in Maya. The Mexican government changed the name to Santa Elena in a bold PR stunt. There’s a small museum dedicated to a gruesome find: 18th-century child mummies found buried beneath the adjoining cathedral, and some henequén -related exhibits.
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D
Centro Cultural Olimpio
Adjoining Palacio Municipal is the Centro Cultural Olimpio, Mérida’s municipal cultural center. Attempts to create a modern exterior for the building were halted by government order, to preserve the colonial character of the Plaza Grande. The ultramodern interior serves as a venue for films, music and dance performances, and other exhibitions. Schedules for performances and frequent film showings are posted outside.
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Museo de la Ciudad
The city museum is housed in the old post office and offers a great reprieve from the hustle, honks and exhaust of this market neighborhood. There are exhibits tracing the city’s history back to pre-conquest days up through the belle époque period, when henequén (fibers crafted into ropes from the agave plant) brought riches to the region, and into the 20th century.
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Museo de la Guerra de Castas
The Museo de la Guerra de Castas is also in Tihosuco and is housed in an 18th-century building one block straight ahead of the church. It does a good job of detailing the more than three centuries of oppression suffered by the Maya on the peninsula, but only a couple of explanations are translated into English. There’s a small botanical garden here as well.
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Oxkintok
Archaeologists have been excited about the ruins of Oxkintok for several years. Inscriptions found at the site contain some of the oldest known dates in the Yucatán, and indicate the city was inhabited from the pre-Classic to the post-Classic period (300 BC to AD 1500), reaching its greatest importance between AD 475 and 860.
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Labná
This is the site not to miss. Archaeologists believe that, at one point in the 9th century, some 3000 Maya lived at Labná. To support such numbers in these arid hills, water was collected in chultunes. At Labná’s peak there were some 60 chultunes in and around the city; several are still visible.
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Ruinas de Mayapán
These ruins are some 50km southeast of Mérida. Though far less impressive than many Maya sites, Mayapán is historically significant, its main attractions are clustered in a compact core and visitors usually have the place to themselves. It is one of few sites where you can ascend to the top of the pyramid for a nice view.
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F
Parque Centenario
About 12 blocks west of the Plaza Grande lies the large, verdant Parque Centenario, bordered by Avenida Itzáes, which leads to the airport and becomes the highway to Campeche. The park’s zoo features the fauna of Yucatán, as well as some exotic species. To get there, take a bus west along Calle 61 or 65.
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Ruinas de Mayapán
These ruins are some 50km southeast of Mérida, on Hwy 18. Though far less impressive than many Maya sites, Mayapán is historically significant – it was one of the last major dynasties in the region. The site’s main attractions are clustered in a compact core, and visitors usually have the place to themselves.
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Caverns
The turnoff for the caverns is 5km east of Chichén Itzá (about 5km southeast of Cenote Ik Kil) on the highway to Cancún. Second-class buses heading east from Pisté toward Valladolid and Cancún will drop you at the Balankanché road. The entrance to the caves is 350m north of the highway.
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Grutas de Balankanché
The Grutas de Balankanché are located 5km east of the ruins of Chichén Itzá, on the highway to Cancún. Compulsory 40-minute tours (minimum six people) are accompanied by poorly recorded narrations: English (11am, 1pm and 3pm), Spanish (9am, noon, 2pm and 4pm) and French (10am).
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Cenotes de Cuzamá
Three kilometers east of the town of Cuzamá, accessed from the small village of Chunkanan, are the Cenotes de Cuzamá, a series of three amazing limestone sinkholes accessed by horse-drawn railcart in an old henequén hacienda.
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G
Templo de San Bernardino & Convento de Sisal
The church named for San Bernardino de Siena and the Convent of Sisal are about 700m southwest of the plaza. They were constructed between 1552 and 1560 to serve the dual functions of fortress and church.
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Kinich-Kakmó
The largest Maya pyramid is the enormous Kinich-Kakmó. You can climb it for free most of the time. If a guard is there, it’s nice to make a M$20 donation.
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Sayil
The ruins of Sayil are 4.5km from the junction of the Ruta Puuc with Hwy 261.
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