Other sights in Mérida
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A
Catedral de San Ildefonso
On the plaza Grande’s east side, on the site of a former Maya temple, is Mérida’s hulking, severe cathedral, begun in 1561 and completed in 1598. Some of the stone from the Maya temple was used in its construction. The massive crucifix behind the altar is Cristo de la Unidad (Christ of Unity), a symbol of reconciliation between those of Spanish and Maya heritage. To the right over the south door is a painting of Tutul Xiu, cacique (indigenous chief) of the town of Maní paying his respects to his ally Francisco de Montejo at T’ho (de Montejo and Xiu jointly defeated the Cocomes; Xiu converted to Christianity, and his descendants still live in Mérida).
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B
Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán
In a building built in 1906, the Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán is six blocks east of the Plaza Grande. There’s a small rotating exhibit downstairs that features pop art from around Mexico, but honestly, you’re better off heading to any artisan market in the countryside – you’ll see the same style of work, and it won’t cost you a single peso, unless you want to buy something. The upstairs exhibits don’t have any explanatory signs yet, but they give you an idea of how locals embroider huipiles, carve ceremonial masks and weave hammocks.
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C
Museo Regional de Antropología
The massive Palacio Cantón houses Yucatán’s regional anthropology museum. Construction of the mansion lasted from 1909 until 1911, and its owner, General Francisco Cantón Rosado (1833–1917), lived here for only six years before his death. The palacio’s splendor and pretension make it a fitting symbol of the grand aspirations of Mérida’s elite during the last years of the Porfiriato, the period from 1876 to 1911 when Porfirio Díaz held despotic sway over Mexico.
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D
Centro Cultural Olimpio
Adjoining Palacio Municipal is the Centro Cultural Olimpio, Mérida’s municipal cultural center. Attempts to create a modern exterior for the building were halted by government order, to preserve the colonial character of the Plaza Grande. The ultramodern interior serves as a venue for films, music and dance performances, and other exhibitions. Schedules for performances and frequent film showings are posted outside.
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E
Museo de la Ciudad
The city museum is housed in the old post office and offers a great reprieve from the hustle, honks and exhaust of this market neighborhood. There are exhibits tracing the city’s history back to pre-conquest days up through the belle époque period, when henequén (fibers crafted into ropes from the agave plant) brought riches to the region, and into the 20th century.
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F
Parque Centenario
About 12 blocks west of the Plaza Grande lies the large, verdant Parque Centenario, bordered by Avenida Itzáes, which leads to the airport and becomes the highway to Campeche. The park’s zoo features the fauna of Yucatán, as well as some exotic species. To get there, take a bus west along Calle 61 or 65.
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