Things to do in Campeche
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Baluarte de San Pedro
Directly behind Iglesia de San Juan de Dios, the Baluarte de San Pedro served a postpiracy defensive function when it repelled a punitive raid from Mérida in 1824. Carved in stone above the entry is the symbol of San Pedro: two keys to heaven and the papal tiara. Climb the steep ramp to the roof and look between the battlements to see San Juan’s cupola. Downstairs, the Galería y Museo de Arte Popular displays beautiful indigenous handicrafts.
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Parador Gastrónomico de Cockteleros
Parador Gastrónomico de Cockteleros, on the north end of the malecón, 2.5km from the Plaza Principal, is the place to partake of the bountiful seafood netted daily from the Gulf. About 20 thatched-roof restaurants all serve pretty much the same thing: shellfish cocktails and fried fish. Ask to see the day's catch and make your selection; a medium-sized fish goes for about around $50. Most places give you free starters such as fried shrimp or crab legs.
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Museo de la Arquitectura Maya
The Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad contains the fascinating Museo de la Arquitectura Maya, the one must-see museum in Campeche. It provides an excellent overview of the sites around Campeche state and the key architectural styles associated with them. Five halls display stelae taken from various sites, accompanied by graphic representations of their carved inscriptions with brief commentaries in flawless English.
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Fuerte Museo San José del Alto
San Miguel's northern counterpart, built in the late 18th century, sits atop the Cerro de Bellavista. From the parapets you can see where the town ends and the mangroves begin. Cross a drawbridge over a moat to enter the neatly restored fortress. Inside, the Fuerte Museo San José del Alto illustrates the port's maritime history through ship models, weaponry and other paraphernalia, including a beautiful ebony rudder carved in the shape of a hound.
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Tranvía de la Ciudad
Three different tours by motorized tranvía depart from Calle 10 beside the Plaza Principal daily; all last about 45 minutes. On the same schedule, the trolley called ‘El Guapo’ goes to the Fuerte de San Miguel or its twin on the north side of town, the Fuerte de San José. (Note that the fort tours do not leave time to visit the museums within them.) Buy tram tickets and check schedules at the booth just inside the plaza from the trolley stop.
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Museo de la Ciudad
Named after Spain’s King Carlos II, the Baluarte de San Carlos houses the Museo de la Ciudad. This small but worthwhile museum chronologically illustrates the city’s tempestuous history via well-displayed objects: specimens of dyewood, muskets, a figurehead from a ship’s prow and the like. The dungeon downstairs alludes to the building’s use as a military prison during the 1700s. The museum was closed during research.
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Ex-Templo de San José
Faced with flamboyant blue-and-yellow tiles, the Ex-Templo de San José is a wonder to behold; note the lighthouse, complete with weather vane, atop the right spire. Built in the early 18th century by Jesuits who ran it as an institute of higher learning until they were booted out of Spanish domains in 1767, it now serves as an exhibition space. It belongs to the Instituto Campechano, the university to which it’s attached.
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Galería y Museo de Arte Popular
Directly behind Iglesia de San Juan de Dios is the Baluarte de San Pedro. Carved in stone above the entry is the symbol of San Pedro: two keys to heaven and the papal tiara. Climb the steep ramp to the roof and look between the battlements to see San Juan’s cupola. Downstairs, the Galería y Museo de Arte Popular displays beautiful indigenous handicrafts.
reviewed
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Marganzo
This touristy spot is worth its mustard. Very sweet waitresses start you off with complimentary shredded manta ray, octopus salad, salsa, garlic cream and chips. From there, dig through the extensive menu, which offers everything from international fare to a regional tasting menu. There’s live music and dances at night, and a pretty decent wine list (this being the provinces and all).
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Centro Cultural Casa Número 6
During the pre-revolutionary era, when the mansion was occupied by an upper-class campechano family, Número 6 was a prestigious plaza address. Wandering the premises, you’ll get an idea of how the city’s high society lived back then. The front sitting room is furnished with Cuban pieces of the period. Inside are exhibition spaces and a good bookstore.
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Lonchería Las Mañanitas
At the Portales de San Martín, a block north of Avenida Circuito Baluartes Norte, this place serving regional snacks under the arcades of the plaza is a popular gathering place for families and friends. The festive mood is buoyed by a steady stream of panuchos (tortillas filled with mashed black beans), tamales and bowls of turkey soup.
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Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción
Dominating the Plaza Principal’s east side is this two-towered cathedral. The limestone structure has stood on this spot for more than three centuries, and it still fills beyond capacity most Sundays. Statues of St Peter and St Paul occupy niches in the baroque facade; the sober, single-nave interior is lined with colonial-era paintings.
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Taquería Los Patitos
Chow down with the longshoremen at this friendly hole-in-the-wall, where overseer doña Hilaria fills tortas (sandwiches in rolls) and trancas (baguettes stuffed with roast pork) with a variety of scrumptious fillings, such as shark-and-egg salad and salpicón de res (shredded beef salad). Don’t miss the exotic fruit juices.
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Archaeological museum
Campeche’s largest colonial fort, facing the Gulf of Mexico some 4km southwest of the city center, is now home to the excellent archaeological museum. Here you can admire findings from the sites of Calakmul, Edzná and Jaina, an island north of town once used as a burial site for Maya aristocracy.
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Museo Arqueológico de Campeche & Fuerte de San Miguel
Campeche’s largest colonial fort, facing the Gulf of Mexico some 4km southwest of the city center, is now home to the excellent archaeological museum. Here you can admire findings from the sites of Calakmul, Edzná and Jaina, an island north of town once used as a burial site for Maya aristocracy.
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Chef Color
This Central American–style eatery serves up large platters of toothsome fare from a steam table. The list of guisados (main courses) might include potato croquettes and Cuban-inspired ropa vieja (‘old clothes, ’ shredded beef in salsa) accompanied by fried plantains, beans and rice.
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Biblioteca de Campeche
On the northern (seaward) side stands a replica of the old government center, now housing the modern Biblioteca de Campeche. The impressive portico building on the opposite side housed an earlier version of the city hall; it is now occupied by shops and restaurants.
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Los Piratas
Campeche's Mexican Baseball League team play every other week during the March to July season at the Estadio Nelson Barrera on the north end of town. Tickets can be purchased at the old baseball stadium on Calle 57, across from the Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.
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Universidad Autónoma de Campeche Centro de Español Y Maya (Cem)
Universidad Autónoma de Campeche Centro de Español y Maya (CEM), one block east of the malecón, offers four- to eight-week summer language courses. Homestays can be arranged. Drop by to sit in on classes or check the noticeboard for Spanish teachers.
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Baluarte de Santiago
Completed in 1704 – the last of the bulwarks to be built – the Baluarte de Santiago houses the Jardín Botánico Xmuch Haltún, a botanical garden with numerous endemic plants. Unless you’re really into plants, it’s not worth the entrance fee.
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Bazar Artesanal
The state-run Folk Art Bazaar, down by the malecón near the Centro de Convenciones Campeche XXI, offers one-stop shopping for regional crafts. One section of the market is reserved for demonstrations of traditional craft techniques. Prices are set – no bargaining.
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Las Mañanitas
With great ocean views some 2km southwest of downtown, this place is perfect for sunset cocktails or a casual lunch or dinner. It serves basically the same menu as their city center location (Lonchería Las Mañanitas), but the atmosphere burns two degrees hotter.
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‘Number Six’
During the pre-revolutionary era, when the mansion was occupied by an upper-class campechano family, ‘Number Six’ was a prestigious plaza address. Wandering the premises, you’ll get an idea of how the city’s high society lived back then.
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Cenaduría Portales
A relaxed place outside the walls, alongside the delightful Plazuela de San Francisco in the barrio of the same name. It specializes in regional dishes. On warm evenings, an ice-cold goblet of coconut horchata (a rice-based drink) really hits the spot.
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Plaza Cuatro de Octubre
The Plaza Cuatro de Octubre commemorates the date of the city's 'founding,' depicting the fateful meeting of a Maya cacique (chief, who was evidently lost, since it took Montejo to found the city), the conquistador Francisco de Montejo and a priest.
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