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Café La Parroquia
Any time of day - or night - your table awaits at this classic coffee house with a dozen ceiling fans, attentive waiters in white coats and continuous Televisa broadcasts. Not just tourists but local geezers in guayaberas (short-sleeved sports shirts) hang out here for hours on end. In addition to the breakfast packages and daily lunch specials (served to ), there's a full list of regional faves such as pollo en escabeche (chicken marinated in vinaigrette-style sauce).
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Cenaduría Portales
A relaxed place outside the walls, alongside the delightful Plazuela de San Francisco in the barrio of the same name. It specializes in regional dishes. On warm evenings, an ice-cold goblet of coconut horchata (a rice-based drink) really hits the spot.
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Chef Color
This Central American-style eatery serves up substantial platters of toothsome fare from a steam table. The list of guisados (main courses) might include potato croquettes and Cuban-inspired ropa vieja ('old clothes,' shredded beef in salsa) accompanied by fried plantains, beans and rice.
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Las Mañanitas
With great ocean views some 2km southwest of downtown, this place is perfect for sunset cocktails or a casual lunch or dinner. It serves basically the same menu as their city center location (Lonchería Las Mañanitas), but the atmosphere burns two degrees hotter.
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Lonchería Las Mañanitas
At the Portales de San Martín, a block north of Avenida Circuito Baluartes Norte, this place serving regional snacks under the arcades of the plaza is a popular gathering place for families and friends. The festive mood is buoyed by a steady stream of panuchos (tortillas filled with black beans), tamales and bowls of turkey soup.
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Marganzo
OK, so we told you to avoid the tourist joints, but this touristy spot is worth its mustard. Very sweet waitresses start you off with complimentary shredded manta ray, octopus salad, salsa, garlic cream and chips. From there, dig through the extensive menu, which offers everything from international fare to a regional tasting menu (around $140 ). There's live music and dances at night, and a pretty decent wine list (this being the provinces and all).
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Mercado Principal
Though startlingly rustic compared with Campeche's spruced-up center, the main market, Mercado Principal , across the street from the Baluarte de San Pedro, offers some terrific snacks. At the Calle 53 entrance, regional-style tamales are dispensed from big pots in the morning. Inside, take a battered stool at Taquería El Amigo Carlos Ruelas and order a tranca - a baguette stuffed with lechón (roast pork) - and an ice cold glass of agua de lima (sweet lemon drink).
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Mundo Natural
This open-air 'natural foods' bar opposite the Palacio de Gobierno prepares fresh juice combos, hefty salads and sandwichónes (very large double- or triple-decker sandwiches that are sliced into snack-sized sections).
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Parador Gastrónomico de Cockteleros
Parador Gastrónomico de Cockteleros, on the north end of the malecón, 2.5km from the Plaza Principal, is the place to partake of the bountiful seafood netted daily from the Gulf. About 20 thatched-roof restaurants all serve pretty much the same thing: shellfish cocktails and fried fish. Ask to see the day's catch and make your selection; a medium-sized fish goes for about around $50 . Most places give you free starters such as fried shrimp or crab legs.
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Taquería Los Patitos
Chow down with the longshoremen at this friendly hole-in-the-wall, where overseer Doña Hilaria fills tortas (sandwiches in rolls) and trancas (baguettes stuffed with roast pork) with a variety of scrumptious fillings, such as shark-and-egg salad and salpicón de res (shredded beef salad). Don't miss the exotic fruit juices.
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