Things to do in Morelia
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Catedral
Morelia's beautiful cathedral (unforgettable when it's lit up at night) dominates the plaza and took more than a century to build (1640−1744), which explains its combination of Herreresque, baroque and neoclassical styles.
The twin 70m-high towers, for instance, have classical Herreresque bases, baroque midsections and multicolumned neoclassical tops. Inside, much of the baroque relief work was replaced in the 19th century with neoclassical pieces. Fortunately, one of the cathedral's interior highlights was preserved: a sculpture of the Señor de la Sacristía made from dried corn paste and topped with a gold crown from 16th-century Spanish king Felipe II. It also has a w…
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Restaurante Lu
Inside the Hotel Casino, talented young chef Lucero Soto Arriaga turns humble pre-Hispanic ingredients into exquisite gems of alta cocina (Mexican haute cuisine). Her multicourse tasting menu might begin with tamales with smoked butter, then move on to delicate salads of dried nopal (cactus paddle) with caramelized pumpkin seeds, squash blossom-peanut tacos and whimsical confections of local fruits. Try to snag an outdoor table for perfect plaza views.
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Gaspachos La Cerrada
Gaspacho – a salad of diced mango, pineapple and jicama, drowned in orange and lime juice and dashed with salt, chili sauce and cheese (optional) – is a local delicacy served all over town. But according to locals, this place is the best.
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Baden-Powell Institute
This small, well-run and affordable Institute offers courses in Spanish language, as well as Mexican politics, cooking, culture, guitar and salsa dancing. It books homestays (per day M$365) for students.
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Ego
On the hillside 3km south of town, Morelia’s hottest club thumps, bumps and grinds to house and electronica tunes. Dress code is casual. The crowd is young and pretty and they don’t stop dancing till they have to.
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Mex Mich Guías
Provides personalized tours and transportation to many destinations in the area, including the Santuario Mariposa Monarca.
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Plaza San Agustín
A few cheap food stalls with lots of tables can be found under the covered arches here.
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Casa de Las Artesanías
If you don’t have time to scour the Purépecha pueblos for the perfect folk art piece, come to the House of Handicrafts, a cooperative marketplace launched to benefit indigenous craftspeople. Attached to the renaissance-style Templo de San Francisco, arts and handicrafts from all over Michoacán are displayed and sold here. Prices are high, but so is the quality and all your cash goes directly to the craftspeople. Upstairs, artists demonstrate their craft in small shops that represent specific Michoacán towns. You’ll find guitars from Paracho, copper from Santa Clara del Cobre, lacquerware, pottery and much more.
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Museo Casa Natal de Morelos
The Museo Casa Natal de Morelos is on the corner of Calles Corregidora and García Obeso. This is where José María Morelos y Pavón was born on September 30, 1765. He was one of the most important heroes in Mexico’s struggle for independence. He is almost like a king, at least it seems that way when you consider how many monuments, statues, plazas and murals the man has earned. Morelos memorabilia includes old photos and documents. An eternal torch burns next to the projection room. Free international films and cultural events are occasionally held here.
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Iglesia La Inmaculada
Every night for more than 40 years, volunteers have served up local delicacies such as corundas (triangular tamales ), uchepos (fresh corn tamales ), fried quesadillas and buñelos (syrupy doughnuts) in the basement of this massive church, with proceeds going to charity. Buy a handful of tickets at the counter to redeem for food at the various booths – leftovers can be returned for cash. One of Morelia’s most memorable eating experiences.
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Colegio de San Nicolás
Morelos studied at the Colegio de San Nicolás, one block west of the plaza. Don’t worry – it is not another museum, but it has become a foundation for the Universidad Michoacana. Upstairs, the Sala de Melchor Ocampo is a memorial to a Mexican hero, a reformer-governor of Michoacán. Preserved here is Ocampo’s library and a copy of the document he signed donating it to the college, just before he was executed by a conservative firing squad on June 3, 1861.
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Santuario de Guadalupe
On the northeast edge of Plaza Morelos, the Santuario de Guadalupe feels like the set piece from Willy Wonka's psychedelic spiritual dream. The pink and red walls of this baroque church built from 1708 to 1716 blooms with white flowers and glistens with an abundance of gold leaf. There's so much color, the interior (decorated in 1915) feels like a Hindu temple. It's the kind of place that would inspire Timothy Leary to do up Virgen de Guadalupe acid tabs.
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Palacio de Justicia
Across from the regional museum is the Palacio de Justicia, built between 1682 and 1695 to serve as the city hall. Its facade blends French and baroque styles and this place, too, is blessed with stairwell art in the courtyard. An Agustín Cárdenas mural portrays brave and heroic Morelos in action. A small two-room museum shares the history of Michoacán's justice system through old photos and papers (look for the grisly cadaver shots).
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Palacio Clavijero
From 1660 to 1767 the Palacio Clavijero, with its awesome main patio, imposing colonnades and pink stonework, was home to the Jesuit school of St Francis Xavier. After the Jesuits were expelled from Spanish lands, the building became a warehouse, a prison and then in 1970 it was completely renovated, restored and rechristened as state government offices. Who said politics and crime don’t mix?
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La Casa del Portal
The setting, a converted three-story mansion, has history. Don Juan Villaseñor lived here during the 16th century and Lázaro Cárdenas retreated here when he was president of Mexico from 1934 to 1940. There’s a stunning upstairs bar, La Terraza, overlooking the Plaza de Armas, an in-house wine shop, oh and it serves meals. Specialties include a Purépecha trout smothered in red chili sauce and local cheese.
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Museo del Estado
The Michoacán state museum details Michoacán’s journey from pre-historic times to first contact with the conquistadors. Pre-Hispanic arrowheads, ceramic figures, bone jewelry and a shimmering quartz skull can be found downstairs. Upstairs are first-person accounts of how force-fed religion coupled with systematic agricultural and economic development tamed the region’s indigenous soul.
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Al Taquito
This tiny taquería, near the aqueduct and the clandestine make out promenade - Callejón Romántica − serves up delicious nopales (cactus), chorizo, shredded pork and beef tacos and burritos. Its specialty, alambre, a diced mixture of onions, sweet peppers, beef and chorizo, covered in cheese and served with griddled tortillas, is a hit with local uni students.
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La Peña Colibrí
Beyond a heavy wooden door, this intimate courtyard café glows with candlelight, illuminating the grinning Day of the Dead skeletons on the walls. Live music starts at 10pm – guitarists pluck weepy ballads, folk singers wail mournfully. Come on Friday or Saturday to see a well-known local troupe perform the danza de los viejitos, a classic Michoacán folk dance.
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Museo Regional Michoacano
Just off the plaza, the Museo Regional Michoacano is housed in a late-18th-century baroque palace where you can view a nice variety of pre-Hispanic artifacts, colonial art and relics. There's also another evocative Alfredo Zalce mural, Cuauhtémoc y la Historia, on the stairway. It offers a taste of Mexican history with a good v. evil twist.
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Ancient architecture and modernism coexist here, sometimes awkwardly and the menu is likewise off-beat - mingling Italian, Mexican and Thai dishes. But if you order right, you'll leave happy. The octopus carpaccio - with five thin slices of octopus sprinkled with sea salt crystals, parsley and drizzled with flavorful olive oil - is fantastic.
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Casa de la Cultura
For international films, dance, music and art exhibitions check what’s up at the Casa de la Cultura, a hive of creative energy with music and dance classes and a cool coffeehouse set in an old colonial palace. The Museo del Estado has a free concert or other cultural event every Wednesday at 7pm, complete with free drinks.
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Fonda Marceva
Specializing in the cuisine of the tierra caliente (hot lands) region of Michoacán’s southeast, this lovely courtyard restaurant serves a mind-blowing aporreadillo (breakfast stew of eggs, dried beef and chili) and some of the best frijoles de olla (beans slow-cooked in a pot) we’ve ever tasted.
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Parque Zoológico Benito Juárez
The zoo is 3km south of the Plaza de Armas and surprisingly pleasant, with most critters in decent habitats. Animals include sea lions, giraffes, elephants, lots of birds and reptiles. Gravel paths make it hard for strollers, but kids will love the small train and playground.
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Velvet
This new spot on the roof of the Cinépolis building is hopelessly hip and extremely white – as in white awnings, white velvet sofas and white light fixtures. Oh, and the views are outstanding. During the film festival producers, directors and stars party here. Saturday night is the big night.
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Casa de la Salsa
Locals converge to shake their collective ass to a rocking four-piece band on a raised stage in this dark, cavernous club. Don’t worry, this is not one of those snooty, show-off salsa clubs, so feel free to get loose. Tequila and beer are priced to move if you need liquid courage.
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