Sights in Inland Michoacán
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Catedral
Morelia's beautiful cathedral (unforgettable when it's lit up at night) dominates the plaza and took more than a century to build (1640−1744), which explains its combination of Herreresque, baroque and neoclassical styles.
The twin 70m-high towers, for instance, have classical Herreresque bases, baroque midsections and multicolumned neoclassical tops. Inside, much of the baroque relief work was replaced in the 19th century with neoclassical pieces. Fortunately, one of the cathedral's interior highlights was preserved: a sculpture of the Señor de la Sacristía made from dried corn paste and topped with a gold crown from 16th-century Spanish king Felipe II. It also has a w…
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Reserva Mariposa Monarca
In the eastern-most corner of Michoacán, straddling the border of México state, lies the incredible 563-sq-km Monarch Butterfly Reserve, the site of the butterfly Burning Man. Every autumn, from late October to early November, millions of monarch butterflies flock to these forested Mexican highlands for their winter hibernation, having flown all the way from the Great Lakes region of the US and Canada, some 4500km away. As they close in on their destination they gather in gentle swarms, crossing highways and fluttering up steep mountainsides where they cling together in clusters that weigh down thick branches of the oyenal (fir) trees. When the sun rises and warms the f…
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Parque Nacional Barranca del Cupatitzio
This incomparable urban park is just 1km west of the main plaza, but it’s another world. Nature is big here. Tropical and subtropical foliage (including burly banana palms) is thick and alive with colorful birds and butterflies. The river boils over boulders, cascades down waterfalls and spreads into wide, crystalline pools. Cobbled paths follow the riverbanks from its source at the Rodilla del Diablo pool, near the park’s north end. There are a few fruit stands and taquerias to choose from and water from hidden springs peels off the surrounding hillsides, before flowing into the great river. There’s even a trout farm where you can net your own catch.
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Museo de Artes Populares
This folk art museum is housed on the former site of the Colegio de San Nicolás, arguably the Americas’ first university, founded by Quiroga in 1540. The building was constructed on pre-Hispanic stone foundations, some of which can be seen behind the museum courtyards. Highlights of the impressive permanent collection include a room set up as a typical Michoacán kitchen, cases of gorgeous jewelry, and an entire room filled with retablos – crudely rendered devotional paintings offering thanks to God for saving the owner from illness or accident. Some are quite gory. Also don’t miss the wooden troje (traditional Purépecha house) in the garden.
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Ihuatzio Archaeological Site
The large and partially restored Ihuatzio archaeological site lies just more than 1km up a cobbled road from the village’s small plaza. The ruins’ best attraction is an open ceremonial space. It is 200m long and features two pyramid-like structures at its west end. Climbing the pyramids is forbidden, but it is possible to walk to the top of the restored wall to their left (south) for good views. Two carved stone coyotes were found at the site; one is in the National Anthropology Museum in Mexico City, the other graces the bell tower of Ihuatzio’s church.
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Museo Casa Natal de Morelos
The Museo Casa Natal de Morelos is on the corner of Calles Corregidora and García Obeso. This is where José María Morelos y Pavón was born on September 30, 1765. He was one of the most important heroes in Mexico’s struggle for independence. He is almost like a king, at least it seems that way when you consider how many monuments, statues, plazas and murals the man has earned. Morelos memorabilia includes old photos and documents. An eternal torch burns next to the projection room. Free international films and cultural events are occasionally held here.
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Casa de Los Once Patios
This cool, rambling colonial edifice was built as a Dominican convent in the 1740s. (Before that, the site held one of Mexico’s first hospitals, founded by Vasco de Quiroga.) Today it houses small artesanías (handicrafts) shops, each specializing in a particular regional craft. Look for copperware from Santa Clara del Cobre and musical instruments from Paracho, as well as lacquerware, hand-painted ceramics and vibrant textiles. You’ll likely find privacy on the top floors where you can take in the surrounding natural and architectural beauty.
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Cerámica Tzintzuntzan
Cerámica Tzintzuntzan is a converted missionary hospital that is now the rustic ceramics studio of Manuel Morales, a fifth-generation local potter. His colorful, intricate work is sold in galleries throughout Mexico and the US. Inside you’ll see ceramics in all stages of production and a cool, underground showroom in the back. Prices are high but the man is a master. Morales gives classes and accepts apprentices as well. If you want to become a potter, you’d have a hard time finding a more creative learning environment, or a more qualified teacher.
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Tingambato
Stroll through luscious avocado groves to the beautiful ruins of this ceremonial site, which predates the Tarascan empire and thrived from about AD 450 to 900. They are located outside of Tingambato village, about 30km from Uruapan on the road to Pátzcuaro. The ruins, which include two plazas, three altars and a ball court (rare in western Mexico), have a Teotihuacán influence. There’s also an 8m-high stepped pyramid and an underground tomb where a skeleton and 32 scattered skulls were found – hinting at beheading or trophy-skull rituals.
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Plaza Vasco de Quiroga
Pátzcuaro's leafy main plaza is one of Mexico's best hang out spots. It is framed by the 17th century facades of old mansions that have since been converted to hotels, shops and restaurants; and watched over by a serene statue of Vasco de Quiroga which rises from the central fountain. The sides of the plaza are named Portal Hidalgo (west side), Portal Aldama (south side) and Portal Matamoros (east side). The north side is Portal Allende east of Iturbe and Portal Morelos west of Iturbe.
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Colegio de San Nicolás
Morelos studied at the Colegio de San Nicolás, one block west of the plaza. Don’t worry – it is not another museum, but it has become a foundation for the Universidad Michoacana. Upstairs, the Sala de Melchor Ocampo is a memorial to a Mexican hero, a reformer-governor of Michoacán. Preserved here is Ocampo’s library and a copy of the document he signed donating it to the college, just before he was executed by a conservative firing squad on June 3, 1861.
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Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra
One of the coolest libraries of all time, the Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra occupies the cavernous interior of the 16th-century San Agustín church. There are oyster-shell skylights and a massive colorful Juan O’Gorman mural on the rear wall that depicts the history of Michoacán from pre-Hispanic times to the 1910 revolution. It also has high-speed internet for just M$5 per hour and a huge collection of pulpy English paperbacks for sale (M$10 for four).
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Santuario de Guadalupe
On the northeast edge of Plaza Morelos, the Santuario de Guadalupe feels like the set piece from Willy Wonka's psychedelic spiritual dream. The pink and red walls of this baroque church built from 1708 to 1716 blooms with white flowers and glistens with an abundance of gold leaf. There's so much color, the interior (decorated in 1915) feels like a Hindu temple. It's the kind of place that would inspire Timothy Leary to do up Virgen de Guadalupe acid tabs.
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Palacio de Justicia
Across from the regional museum is the Palacio de Justicia, built between 1682 and 1695 to serve as the city hall. Its facade blends French and baroque styles and this place, too, is blessed with stairwell art in the courtyard. An Agustín Cárdenas mural portrays brave and heroic Morelos in action. A small two-room museum shares the history of Michoacán's justice system through old photos and papers (look for the grisly cadaver shots).
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Museo de los Cuatro Pueblos Indios
In the Huatápera, an old colonial courtyard building near the northeast corner of the central plaza, is this three-room museum. Built in the 1530s by Vasco de Quiroga, this relic once housed the first hospital in the Americas. The decorations around the doors and windows were carved by Purépecha artisans in a Mudejar style. The museum showcases regional artesanías, like ceramics from Capula and lacquerware from Quiroga.
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Palacio Clavijero
From 1660 to 1767 the Palacio Clavijero, with its awesome main patio, imposing colonnades and pink stonework, was home to the Jesuit school of St Francis Xavier. After the Jesuits were expelled from Spanish lands, the building became a warehouse, a prison and then in 1970 it was completely renovated, restored and rechristened as state government offices. Who said politics and crime don’t mix?
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Museo del Estado
The Michoacán state museum details Michoacán’s journey from pre-historic times to first contact with the conquistadors. Pre-Hispanic arrowheads, ceramic figures, bone jewelry and a shimmering quartz skull can be found downstairs. Upstairs are first-person accounts of how force-fed religion coupled with systematic agricultural and economic development tamed the region’s indigenous soul.
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Textile Factory
This great old textile factory from the 19th century is essentially a living museum. Hand-loomed and hand-dyed bedspreads, tablecloths and curtains are made here from pure cotton and wool and are available for sale. The original machines are more than 100 years old and are still used. Call ahead for a tour and see the entire weaving process from cotton bale to finished tablecloth.
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Tzaráracua Waterfall
Ten kilometers south of downtown Uruapan, the wild Rio Cupatitzio makes its last act count. It pumps hard over the vine-covered, 30m-high red rock cliffs and crashes into a misty turquoise pool. This is the Tzaráracua waterfall. On the meandering hike down the 557 slippery steps to the falls you’ll see that the raging river has been dammed a few kilometers downstream.
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Tzintzuntzan Archeological Site
Head out the Templo de San Francisco's front gate, across the highway and up the hill and you’ll find the Tzintzuntzan archeological site, an impressive group of five round, reconstructed temples, known as yácatas. They are all that remain of the mighty Tarascan empire. The hillside location offers wonderful views of the town, lake and surrounding mountains.
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Museo Regional Michoacano
Just off the plaza, the Museo Regional Michoacano is housed in a late-18th-century baroque palace where you can view a nice variety of pre-Hispanic artifacts, colonial art and relics. There's also another evocative Alfredo Zalce mural, Cuauhtémoc y la Historia, on the stairway. It offers a taste of Mexican history with a good v. evil twist.
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Templo de la Compañía
Built in the 16th century, the Templo de la Compañía became a Jesuit training college in the 17th century. The church is still in use and houses some Vasco de Quiroga relics. The adjacent college building fell into ruin after the expulsion of the Jesuits. It is now used for community activities and often has free temporary exhibits.
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Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud
This gorgeous church, built on the hill atop a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site, was intended to be the centerpiece of Vasco de Quiroga’s utopia. The building wasn’t completed until the 19th century and only the central nave was faithful to his original design. Quiroga’s tomb, the Mausoleo de Don Vasco, is left of the main doors.
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Parque Zoológico Benito Juárez
The zoo is 3km south of the Plaza de Armas and surprisingly pleasant, with most critters in decent habitats. Animals include sea lions, giraffes, elephants, lots of birds and reptiles. Gravel paths make it hard for strollers, but kids will love the small train and playground.
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Museo Casa de Morelos
In 1801 Morelos bought the Spanish-style house on the corner of Avenida Morelos and Soto y Saldaña. Today it’s a Morelos museum. The Museo Casa de Morelos explains his role in the independence movement and has an array of photos, books and antique furniture.
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