Restaurants in Guadalajara
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Birriería las Nueve Esquinas
Half a dozen blocks south of the city center, the un-touristy Nueve Esquinas (nine corners) neighborhood specializes in birria, meat steamed in its own juices until it’s so tender it melts in your mouth. Birriería las Nueve Esquinas does it best. The open, tiled kitchen, with its in-house tortillería is as beautiful as the tasty and absurdly tender barbacoa de borrego (baked lamb) and birria de chivo (steamed goat) served in traditional ceramic casseroles. Enjoy them with a stack of fresh tortillas and smaller bowls of guacamole, pickled onions and salsa verde (green sauce) swimming with cilantro and perfectly ripe chunks of avocado.
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La Antigua
The location and ambience outshine the food at this charming terrace restaurant overlooking the plaza. But it’s worth considering for the made-to-order salsa and tortillas and the sizzling molcajete de arrachera, a traditional beef and cheese stew simmering in a spicy chili sauce.
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Chai
Guadalajara’s young and pretty pack into plush booths to sip chai lattes and nibble on panini at this casual hippie-chic café, home of the city’s best brunches. A second location, in a restored mansion in the upscale Zona Rosa has a sunny terrace and free wi-fi.
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Karne Garibaldi
This place has two specialties: carne en su jugo (meat cooked in its own broth flavored with beans, bacon and green tomatoes) and fast service (so speedy it landed in the Guinness Book of Records in 1996). Neither will disappoint.
reviewed
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Danés
Dessert lovers flock to this neighborhood bakery that turns out a luscious array of Mexican and European pastries, from dark chocolate-oozing pan de chocolate to fruit-stuffed empanadas.
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Casa Fuerte
This place leans toward fine dining, with an elegant bar, refreshing garden patio and a menu priced like an upscale Mexican restaurant in California. It’s one of the more popular spots in town.
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Cocina 88
Moneyed Guadalajara’s restaurant of choice is located in a renovated turn-of-the-century mansion, where guests choose their cut of beef or choice of fresh seafood from a butcher case and select their wine from the cellar rather than a list. Here, surf and turf has many meanings, such as perfectly seared scallops and filet mignon carpaccio. It’s not cheap, but it isn’t a total budget buster. Seafood and beef are sold at cost and guests are simply charged a kitchen fee per person.
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Mariscos el Social
The chef, known as 'El Socio' started serving his sensational ceviche and delicious shrimp and octopus cocktails, from his stainless steel cart on Glendale and Delicias, 20 years ago. He still works that corner, but he has a sit down café down the block that is equally great. Each week El Socio and his crew serve 350 kilos of shrimp and octopus. So, you know it's fresh. Order a shrimp and octopus plate if you're not into the soupy cocktails.
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Café Madrid
What more could you want from a classic diner? The waiters are in white dinner jackets and the cash register, espresso machines and soda fountains are mint-condition antiques. Come for breakfast. The huevos rancheros (fried eggs on a corn tortilla with a tomato, chili and onion sauce served with refried beans) and chilaquiles (fried tortilla strips cooked with chili sauce) have been favorites for 50 years.
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Mariscos Progreso
On weekend afternoons it feels like all of Guadalajara has packed into this patio seafood restaurant. Dressed-up Mexican families slurp ceviche and pass around platters of pineapple shrimp and huachinango al estilo Veracruz (snapper with lime and tomatoes) while mariachis wander from table to table. Oysters are a specialty – you’ll recognize the place by the oyster-shucking hut out front.
reviewed
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Tortas Ahogadas Cesár
This bare-bones café traffics in one thing and one thing only: tortas ahogadas, Guadalajara’s beloved hangover cure. Baguette-like rolls called birotes are filled with chunks of slow-roasted pork and drenched with searing salsa picante – ask for yours ‘media ahogada’ (half drowned) for less burn; only die-hard chili-heads should request ‘bien ahogada.’
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La Fonda de San Miguel Arcángel
A sweet and funky courtyard retreat from the sun where fountains gurgle, an old piano man tickles the keys and antique sculpture and bird cages are everywhere. Its specialty is filete de res oro negro – beef with huitlacoche (corn fungus) sauce. Come at night and dine beneath a magnificent chandelier of wrought-iron stars.
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Santo Coyote
Locals love to send tourists here because of the set piece décor - think massive palapa roofs - and Mexican Hat Dance performances (um, not good). But they do make their scintillating three-chili salsa fresh at the tableside and the mostly glass bar is magnificent. Plus, if you sit there you'll avoid the 'entertainment'.
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La Mata Tinta
This is a wine bar, art gallery and café under one roof – although seating spills into the plaza. It has a prodigious wine list including Mexican vintages and a nice selection of baguettes and panini. There’s live music five nights a week and the walls are covered with rotating exhibitions from local artists.
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Tortas Ahogadas Héroes
The menu is simple: there's only tortas ahogadas, Guadalajara's beloved and famous hangover cure. Crunchy baguettes are filled with chunks of pork and drenched in a searing chili sauce and a squeeze of lime. Take a bite and your tongue will burn, your stomach unwinds and your head will clear almost instantly.
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La Fonda de la Noche
This under-the-radar gem serves food from the owner’s native Durango in a rambling, art-filled private house on a quiet residential street. On weekends, try the classic chiles en nogada (stuffed poblanos in a walnut-pomegranate sauce). The door is unmarked – it’s on the northwest corner of Jesús and Reforma.
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Cenaduría Doña Victoria
Victoria serves high-quality Mexican soul food. Her streetside skillet overflows with taquitos, tacos, tortas, pozole, quail, chicken and potatoes. The pollo dorado (fried chicken; M$30) is the best seller. It comes with potatoes, salad, tortillas and three kinds of salsa.
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El Sacromonte
Guadalajara’s favorite alta cocina (gourmet Mexican) establishment serves whimsical takes on classic dishes – think quesadillas sprinkled with rose petals, avocado-watermelon soup. Decor is tastefully arty, with vintage bullfighting posters and folk-art crucifixes.
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Alcatraz
You'll have to search for the lava stone facade because it has no sign. But it does have the best desserts in town. The light-as-air jericalla custard, coffee cakes and blueberry cheesecake have won this family shop a steady stream of local loyalists.
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LA O
The guys at Cocina 88 converted this mansion into a cool new restaurant. This one serves Spanish, Italian and Mexican tapas and mains come with an endless salad and antipasti bar. Try the garlicky pulpo (squid) and the salmon-stuffed squash blossoms.
reviewed
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Tacos Don Luis
At night this Zona Rosa parking lot overflows with hungry club-goers, who crouch on the curb with plastic plates trying not to spill taco fillings on their party dresses and fancy shoes. There are various food stalls, but Don Luis is the oldest and the best.
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Casa Vieja
Dine on cilantro salmon and arrachera a la plancha (grilled skirt steak), within a chipped and faded pastel courtyard. The food works and the setting is lovely, but the soundtrack is bracing (Gothic classical meets Ryan Seacrest–approved pop-rock).
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La Chata
Quality comida típica (home-style food), affordable prices and ample portions keep this family diner packed. The specialty is a platillo jaliscense (fried chicken with five sides); it also serves a popular pozole (hominy soup).
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La Estación de Lulio
It's hard to get a seat for breakfast at this fine café because of the great jazz soundtrack and the complete breakfasts of eggs al gusto, spicy beans, chilaquiles, coffee and fresh pressed orange, grapefruit or tangerine juice.
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El Tío
Once the savory, spicy aroma wafts over you, you will not be able to ignore this humble taco stand. All it serves are bean and ground beef tacos with grilled peppers and fiery red salsa. Cue up with the locals and enjoy some exceptional street food.
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