This bare-bones café traffics in one thing and one thing only: tortas ahogadas, Guadalajara’s beloved hangover cure. Baguette-like rolls called birotes are filled with chunks of slow-roasted pork and drenched with searing salsa picante – ask for yours ‘media ahogada’ (half drowned) for less burn; only die-hard chili-heads should request ‘bien ahogada.’