Chapala

Introducing Chapala

Lago de Chapala, Mexico’s largest natural lake, lies 45km south of Guadalajara. Surrounded by mountains – some of which tumble dramatically to the shore, its beauty is deep and undeniable, but it’s not always healthy. Water levels fluctuate due to Guadalajara and Mexico City’s water needs and on-again, off-again drought. Commercial fertilizers washed into the lake have nourished water hyacinth, an invasive plant that clogs the lake’s surface, blocks sunlight from the depths – leaving the lake dead in some places. But beauty and an addictive climate (always warm during the day and pleasantly cool at night) balance Chapala’s eco-sins and continue to lure American and Canadian retirees to the area, which means soaring real estate prices, especially in nearby Ajijic.

The lake’s namesake, Chapala, became a well-known resort destination after president Porfirio Díaz vacationed here every year from 1904 to 1909. DH Lawrence wrote most of The Plumed Serpent at Zaragoza 307, now a beautiful villa. But today Chapala is just a simple working-class Mexican town that gets busy on weekends when Guadalajarans invade. Its best quality is its authenticity and if Ajijic rubs you wrong (you won’t be the first), you’ll be grateful for this happy, bustling slice of real Mexico.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009