Things to do in Tabasco
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Yumká
This Tabascan safari park, 17km east of Villahermosa (4km past the airport), is hardly a Kenyan game drive, but the space and greenery do offer a break from the city. Yumká is divided into jungle, savanna and lake zones, representing Tabasco’s three main ecosystems. Visits take the form of guided tours of the three areas (30 minutes each). In the jungle zone you see regional Mexican species such as howler monkeys, jaguars, scarlet macaws and toucans. The savanna, viewed from a tractor-pulled trolley, has an African section with elephants, giraffes, zebras and hippos, and an Asian section with axis deer, antelope, buffalo and gaur (the largest ox in the world). You tour th…
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Centro de Interpretación Uyotot-Ja
The reserve’s visitor center, the Centro de Interpretación Uyotot-Ja, or ‘Casa de Agua, ’ is 13km along the road to the town of Jonuta, beside the broad, winding Río Grijalva. Here a 20m-high observation tower overlooks the awesome confluence of the Grijalva, the Usumacinta and a third large river, the San Pedrito – a spot known as Tres Brazos (Three Arms). Guides lead you round a nature trail and displays on the wetlands. Boat trips (two hours, up to seven people M$500) are available into the mangroves, where you should see crocodiles, iguanas, birds and, with luck, howler monkeys. March to May is the best birding season.
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Grutas del Coconá
At the Grutas del Coconá, 4km northeast of the center, a well-made concrete path leads 500m into a cavern with pools, bats, plenty of stalactites and stalagmites, and a small museum containing pre-Hispanic ritual items found in the cave. Listen for the roar of howler monkeys at the cave entrance. Bring a flashlight or be prepared to pay an additional M$50 for a guide to turn on the cavern lights. Guides can also be hired to explore undeveloped caves nearby. Combis marked ‘Grutas’ (M$5.50, 10 minutes) will take you there every half-hour from Bastar beside Teapa’s central church.
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Hacienda La Luz
Hacienda La Luz, one of several local plantations making chocolate from home-grown cacao, is just 300m from Comalcalco’s central Parque Juárez: walk 250m west along Calle Bosada to its end at Boulevard Rovirosa, turn right and you’ll see the hacienda’s white gateposts across the road. The tour takes you round the beautiful house, gardens and cacao plantation, shows traditional methods of turning cacao beans into chocolate, and concludes with a chocolate drink. English is spoken.
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Restaurant Los Tulipanes
Overlooking the Río Grijalva, near the Museo Regional de Antropología, Los Tulipanes is the best place in town for Tabascan specialties, including seafood-filled corn tortillas, and empanadas of pejelagarto, the tasty freshwater 'lizard fish' that is a symbol of Tabasco. It also serves steaks, chicken, róbalo (snook) and other fish - and on Sundays a Tabascan buffet (around $180) that's the perfect opportunity to gorge yourself silly.
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Ancient Comalcalco
Comalcalco was at its peak between AD 600 and 1000, when ruled by the Chontals. It remained an important center of commerce for several more centuries, trading in a cornucopia of pre-Hispanic luxury goods: cacao, salt, feathers, deer and jaguar skins, wax, honey, turtle shells, tobacco, chilies, manta-ray spines, cotton, polychrome ceramics, copal, jade and greenstone hachas (flat, carved-stone objects associated with the ritual ball game).
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El Refugio de la Luna
A funky high-ceilinged coffeehouse with Spanish tiles and wicker seating, this place offers some of the most consistent arts offerings in town. Stop in for live jazz, trova or fandango on Fridays and Saturdays, literary readings on Wednesdays, and free rooftop movies – Cine Bajo las Estrellas (Cinema Under the Stars) – on Thursday nights. Serves food, but no alcohol.
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Parador Turístico Puerto Ceiba
At Puerto Ceiba, 6km northeast of Paraíso, the Parador Turístico Puerto Ceiba is an enjoyable waterfront restaurant where you can take 1¼-hour boat rides along the palm-lined Río Seco and into Laguna Mecoacán, with its mangroves and birdlife. It’s also possible to rent kayaks here.
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Parque-Museo la Venta
This fascinating outdoor park and museum was created in 1958, when petroleum exploration threatened the highly important ancient Olmec settlement of La Venta in western Tabasco. Archaeologists moved the site’s most significant finds, including three colossal stone heads, to Villahermosa.
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Café Punta del Cielo
A respite from the raging heat and humidity, this small air-conditioned glass box next to Parque-Museo La Venta is a dream come true. Primarily a café, it serves premium hot and cold coffee drinks (some organic), as well as panini and light snacks. Succumb to brain freeze with an arctic frappé.
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La Galería
An altar to Frida Kahlo presides over this uber-kitschy pizzeria 2½ blocks east of the plaza on Medina. The pizzas and pastas are excellent, and the dizzying array of old glamour stills, pastiche art and whatnot make for interesting eye candy. It also serves a good selection of thirst quenchers.
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Italianni’s
This quality Italian restaurant serves well-prepared pasta, pizzas, salads, chicken and steaks and plenty of Italian wine amid classic checked tablecloths. Don’t miss the M$99 two-course special Monday to Thursday, and bring backup if you intend to polish off the flan.
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Museo de Historia
Housed in a striking 19th-century building known as La Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles), the Museo de Historia has sparse exhibits on Tabasco history, but the Spanish azulejos themselves, which cover the facade and most of the interior, are gorgeous.
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Museo Regional de Antropología
Still being reconstructed following the 2007 flood, the regional anthropology museum holds some interesting exhibits on Olmec and Maya cultures in Tabasco. It’s 1km south of the Zona Luz in the ‘CICOM’ complex, and is due to reopen by 2012.
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Turismo Nieves
Turismo Nieves offers a range of comprehensive tours around Tabasco, including an eight-hour 'Ruta del Cacao' day trip northwest of Villahermosa, which packs in a turtle farm, two cacao haciendas, Comalcalco ruins and a boat trip on Laguna Mecoacán.
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Café Leyra
A few blocks south of the Hotel Hacienda Tabasqueña, seek out the Café Leyra, a small glass building wrapped around a tree. It serves excellent coffee, tacos, tortas and antojitos in a blissful air-conditioned refuge.
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La Xícara
Celebrate bohemia at this tiny new chill-out arts space on a pedestrian alley, where the resident DJ spins techno and you can nibble on waffles and quesadillas while sprawled out on the red leopard-print sofa. Look for a red light.
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Salsa
At the southern end of the malecón, river breezes swing through this open-air club, which pulses with salsa and reggaetón. DJs and live bands get people on their feet, with crowds getting thick by midnight.
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Casa de la Trova Tabasqueña
Casa de la Trova Tabasqueña Trova artists play once or twice most weeks, usually at 20:00 Wednesday, Thursday or Friday, at this café-style venue next to the Museo Regional de Antropología.
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La Sevillana
For a more upscale experience, share a pitcher of sangria at this gourmet café with comfortable outdoor tables. A block off the malecón, its breezy arcade is a pleasant place to while away the evening.
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Rock & Roll Cocktelería
A maelstrom of heat, swirling fans, thumping jukebox and garrulous punters. Everyone’s here for the cocteles (fish or seafood, tomato sauce, lettuce, onions and a lemon squeeze) and the cheap beer.
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Atarashi Sushi
Air- conditioned Atarashi presents a tasty Mexican angle on Japanese food, offering all sorts of tantalizing – and satisfying – seafood, meat, vegetable and sauce combinations. Delivery service available.
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Restaurant La Posta
The first, popular Restaurant La Posta, serves seafood on a deck right over Laguna Mecoacán, and offers more boat rides on the laguna, through the mangroves, or to the sea.
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Riviera Villahermosa
The Euro-Mex menu is pretty good, and the air-conditioned 4th-floor setting with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river is spectacular. Steaks, seafood and pasta are all good here.
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Regional Anthropology Museum
Still being reconstructed following the 2007 flood, the regional anthropology museum holds some interesting exhibits on Olmec and Maya cultures in Tabasco.
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