Things to do in Bonampak, Yaxchilán & The Carretera Fronteriza
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Yaxchilán
Jungle-shrouded Yaxchilán has a terrific setting above a horseshoe loop in the Río Usumacinta. The control this location gave it over river commerce, and a series of successful alliances and conquests, made Yaxchilán one of the most important Classic Maya cities in the Usumacinta region. Archaeologically, Yaxchilán is famed for its ornamented facades and roofcombs, and its impressive stone lintels carved with conquest and ceremonial scenes. A flashlight is helpful for exploring some parts of the site and last entry is at 3:30pm. Drinks are sold at a shack near the river landing. Howler monkeys (saraguates) inhabit the tall trees here, and are an evocative highlight. Y…
reviewed
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Las Guacamayas
In the small village of Reforma Agraria, 49km southwest of Benemérito, the beautiful ecolodge of Las Guacamayas is the heart of an impressive community program to protect the local population of scarlet macaws. This spectacular and endangered member of the parrot family once ranged as far north as Veracruz, but its only Mexican home today is far eastern Chiapas. Numbers at Reforma Agraria have increased to more than 100 pairs since 1991, when the 14.5-sq-km macaw reserve was founded. The birds move in and out of the reserve in seasonal pursuit of food; the best months for observing them are December to June, when they are nesting.
reviewed
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Bonampak
The site of Bonampak spreads over 2.4 sq km, but all the main ruins stand around the rectangular Gran Plaza. Never a major city, Bonampak spent most of the Classic period in Yaxchilán’s sphere of influence. The most impressive surviving monuments were built under Chan Muwan II, a nephew of the Yaxchilán’s Itzamnaaj B’alam II, who acceded to Bonampak’s throne in AD 776. The 6m-high Stele 1 in the Gran Plaza depicts Chan Muwan holding a ceremonial staff at the height of his reign. He also features in Stele 2 and Stele 3 on the Acrópolis, which rises from the south end of the plaza.
reviewed
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Yaxchilán
Jungle-shrouded Yaxchilán has a terrific setting above a horseshoe loop in the Río Usumacinta. The control this location gave it over river commerce, and a series of successful alliances and conquests, made Yaxchilán one of the most important Classic Maya cities in the Usumacinta region. Archaeologically, Yaxchilán is famed for its ornamented facades and roofcombs, and its impressive stone lintels carved with conquest and ceremonial scenes. A flashlight is helpful for exploring some parts of the site.
reviewed
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Museo de la Cuenca del Usumacinta
The neat and modern Museo de la Cuenca del Usumacinta has good examples of Chol Maya dress, and some information in Spanish on the area’s post-conquest history, but pride of place goes to two fine and intricately carved steles retrieved from the nearby site of Dos Caobas.
reviewed
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Centro de Alimentos Chankin
Bordering Enrique Paniagua’s campamento, this good garden restaurant is run by his daughter. Fragrant walls of flowers attract swarms of hyperactive hummingbirds.
reviewed
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Restaurante Imperio Maya
This spacious palapa -topped restaurant mostly caters to Yaxchilán-bound tourists, but the locals like it too.
reviewed
