Things to do in South Of Mexico City
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Acerto
This strikingly modern, sleek (and rather orange) conversion of a long-standing local favorite now functions as a restaurant, cocktail bar and internet café. The main attraction is the fantastic view across the Plaza Borda to Santa Prisca, although its delicious menu of salads, soups, antojitos and moles and its superior cocktail making are also good reasons to drop by.
reviewed
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La Villa Bonita
La Villa Bonita is a new cooking school, the project of Ana García, one of Mexico’s most famous celebrity chefs. It has earned rave reviews from students for its gorgeous home in the Tepoztlán valley and innovative approach to Mexican cooking.
reviewed
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Cetlalic
Emphasizes language learning, cultural awareness and social responsibility. Offers a large range of social justice programs including specially tailored gay and lesbian programs.
reviewed
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Recinto de La Catedral
Cuernavaca's cathedral stands in a large high-walled recinto (compound) - the entrance gate is on Hidalgo. Like the Palacio de Cortés, the cathedral was built in a grand fortress-like style, in an effort to impress, intimidate and defend against the natives. Franciscans started work on what was one of Mexico's earliest Christian missions in 1526, using indigenous labor and stones from the rubble of Cuauhnáhuac.
The first construction was the Capilla Abierta de San José, an open chapel on the cathedral's west side. The cathedral itself, the Templo de la Asunción de María, is plain and solid, with an unembellished facade. The side door, which faces north to the compound'…
reviewed
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Parroquia de Santa Prisca
The Parroquia de Santa Prisca is the symbol of Taxco and was a labor of love for town hero José de la Borda. The local Catholic hierarchy allowed the silver magnate to donate this church to Taxco on the condition that he mortgage his mansion and other assets to guarantee its completion; the project nearly bankrupted him, but the risk was well worth it – the resulting building is one of Mexico’s most beautiful and striking pieces of baroque architecture. Perhaps Santa Prisca’s most striking feature is the contrast between its belfries with their elaborate Churrigueresque facade overlooking the Plaza Borda and the far more simple, constrained and elegant nave, when viewed f…
reviewed
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Museo Robert Brady
The one-time home of American artist and collector Robert Brady (1928–86), Museo Robert Brady is a wonderful place to spend time appreciating the exquisite taste of one man. Brady lived in Cuernavaca for 24 years after a spell in Venice, but his collections range from Papua New Guinea and India to Haiti and South America. Every room, including the two gorgeous bathrooms and kitchen, is bedecked in paintings, carvings, textiles, antiques and folk arts from all corners of the earth. Among the treasures are works by well-known Mexican artists, including Rivera, Tamayo, Kahlo and Covarrubias, as well as Brady’s own paintings (check out his spot-on portrait of his friend Pen…
reviewed
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Palacio de Cortés
Cortés' imposing medieval-style fortress stands opposite the southeast end of the Plaza de Armas. Construction of this two-storey stone fortress-style palace was accomplished between 1522 and 1532, and was done on the base of the city pyramid that Cortés destroyed after taking Cuauhnáhuac, still visible from various points on the ground floor. Cortés resided here until he turned tail for Spain in 1541.
The palace remained with Cortés' family for most of the next century, but by the 18th century it was being used as a prison. During the Porfirio Díaz era it became government offices. Today the palace houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, with two floors of …
reviewed
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Pirámide de Tepozteco
The uncontested main sight in town is this 10m-high pyramid, although it’s actually some 400m above the town perched atop a sheer cliff at the end of a very steep path that begins at the end of Avenida Tepozteco. Built in honor of Tepoztécatl, the Aztec god of the harvest, fertility and pulque, the pyramid is more impressive for its location than for its actual size. Be warned that the path is exhausting. Heading off early is recommended to beat the heat, and the 2km walk is not recommended to anyone not physically fit. At the top, depending on haze levels, you may be rewarded with a panorama of the valley. Bring your own water, and good shoes are highly recommended. V…
reviewed
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Museo de Arte Virreinal
This charming, rather rag-tag religious art museum is housed in a wonderful old house that is often referred to as Casa Humboldt, even though the famous German explorer and naturalist Friedrich Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt slept here for only one night in 1803! The museum hosts a small but well-displayed collection of art, which is labeled in English and Spanish. The most interesting exhibit describes restoration work on Santa Prisca, during which some fabulous material (including tapestries, woodwork altarpieces and rich decorative fabrics) was discovered in the basement of the house, and there is also an interesting display on the Manila Galleons, which pioneered tra…
reviewed
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Spanish Courses
Cuernavaca is a well-established center for studying Spanish at all levels, and has dozens of language schools. As such, standards are high, teaching is usually very thorough and prices very competitive. The best offer small-group or individual instruction, at all levels, with four to five hours per day of intensive instruction plus a couple of hours' conversation practice. Classes begin each Monday, and most schools recommend a minimum enrollment of four weeks.
With so many teaching styles and options, prospective students should research the choices carefully. Contact the tourist office for an extensive list of schools. The schools we list are among the most frequently …
reviewed
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Reposado
Reposado is synonymous with its celebrity chef Ana García, a local girl who has made a name for herself both in Mexico and the US with her promotion of alta cocina mexicana. Don’t miss a chance to come to her intimate and charming restaurant and to try her ever-changing menu of traditional Mexican cooking with exciting twists and innovations. Tables are scattered throughout the colonial complex and romantically candlelit. There’s a stylish sofa-bed cocktail lounge in a loft overlooking the pool. Those really interested can organize to stay in the small on-site hotel here and take cookery courses with Chef García – see the website for details.
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Jardín Juárez
Adjoining the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the smaller Jardín Juárez, where the central gazebo (designed by tower specialist Gustave Eiffel) houses juice and sandwich stands, and hosts live band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings from 18:00. Roving vendors sell balloons, ice cream and corn on the cob under the trees, which fill up with legions of cacophonous grackles at dusk.
Even more entertaining are the guitar trios who warm up their voices and instruments before heading to the cafés across the street to serenade willing patrons. You can request a ballad or two for around $75.
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El Barco
This popular, no-nonsense joint specializes in Guerrero-style pozole, the all-curing Mexican version of matzo-ball soup. Small or heaping clay bowls are accompanied by fine oregano, mildly hot red chili, shredded lettuce, limes and chopped onions. Specify pollo (chicken) maciza unless you’d like your soup to include bits of fat, and especial if you enjoy avocado. For refreshment, there’s ice-cold beer, pitchers of agua de jamaica (hibiscus water) and top-shelf tequilas.
reviewed
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Ex-Convento Domínico de la Natividad
The Ex-Convento Domínico de la Natividad and the attached church were built by Dominican priests between 1560 and 1588. The plateresque church facade has Dominican seals interspersed with indigenous symbols, floral designs and various figures. The monastery’s arched entryway is adorned with an elaborate seed mural of pre-Hispanic history and symbolism. Every year, during the first week of September, local artists sow a new mural from 60 varieties of seeds.
reviewed
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Museo Guillermo Spratling
This very well-laid-out three-story history and archaeology museum is off an alley behind Templo de Santa Prisca. It contains a small but excellent collection of pre-Hispanic jewelry, art, pottery and sculpture from American silversmith William Spratling’s private collection. The phallic cult pieces are a particular eye-opener. On the basement floor there are examples of Spratling’s designs using pre-Hispanic motifs. The top floor hosts occasional temporary exhibits.
reviewed
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La Strada
On the walking street also known as Callejón del Cubo, this inviting slice of Rome presents authentic Italian-Mediterranean cuisine in a covered interior courtyard. The napkins are linen, the wine cellar is well-stocked, the lettuce is organic and service is attentive. Considering its location near the Palacio de Cortés, it’s not too touristy. Romance fills the air Friday and Saturday nights, when there’s live violin music and opera singing.
reviewed
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TLALOC
Run by teacher Alfredo Martínez, TLALOC was set up to provide a better deal for teachers and other Mexican employees who, according to Alfredo, get a bad deal from many of the other local language schools. Wages are higher here, teachers get paid sick leave and medical care, and there’s a strong volunteering aspect to courses here. Nevertheless, it’s cheaper than many of the bigger schools, making it a great place to give something back as well as to learn Spanish.
reviewed
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Plazuela del Zacate
There's buzzing nightlife in Cuernavaca, supported by a year-round student population who keep places busy every night of the week. The most accessible bars are around Plazuela del Zacate and the adjacent alley Las Casas, where there's a selection of fun joints, most of which offer live music or karaoke, not making them great for a quiet beer. These places all open around sunset and typically don't shut their doors until around sunrise. There are no cover charges.
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Pirámide de Teopanzolco
This small archaeological site is 1km northeast of the center. There are actually two pyramids, one inside the other. You can climb on the outer base and see the older pyramid within, with a double staircase leading up to the remains of a pair of temples. Tlahuicas built the older pyramid over 800 years ago; the outside one was being constructed by the Aztecs when Cortés arrived, and was never completed. The name Teopanzolco means ‘Place of the Old Temple'.
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Museo Arqueológico Carlos Pellicer
Behind the Dominican church, this archaeology museum has a small but interesting collection of pieces from around the country, donated by Tabascan poet Carlos Pellicer Cámara. The objects on display, a mix of human and animal figures, are lively and vibrant. The stone fragments depicting a pair of rabbits – the symbol for Ometochtli, the leader of the 400 rabbit gods of drunkenness – were discovered at the Tepozteco pyramid site.
reviewed
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Restaurant Y Cafetería Los Arcos
Right in the thick of things off the Plaza de Armas, Los Arcos is a European-style café which makes for a great meeting place. The huge terrace is nearly always packed. Whether you come for early-morning coffee, late-night cocktails or a meal in between, you’ll find friendly and efficient service. There’s also a geletaría here serving up great ice cream. Happy hours run from 2pm to 4pm and again from 8pm to 10pm.
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Pozolería Tia Calla
There are no fine vistas or breezy terrazas (terraces) here – just authentic, no-nonsense pozole, served up in Auntie Calla’s basement. Pick your poison: chicken or pork. Pork comes loaded with chicharrón (fried pork skin), avocado and all the fixings. No matter your meat choice, the broth is always pork-based. The beer steins are chilled, and there’s fútbol on the tele. What more could you ask for?
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Casa Hidalgo
Directly opposite the Palacio de Cortés, with a great terrace and an even better upstairs balcony, this is one of Cuernavaca’s most popular eateries and attracts a well-heeled crowd of local socialites and wealthy visitors. The menu is eclectic (try cold mango-agave soup with jicama or Tlaxcalteca chicken breast stuffed with cheese and roasted poblano pepper with three salsas: squash blossom, spinach and chipotle, for example).
reviewed
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La Sibarita
High on a hill above town, the restaurant at Posada del Tepozteco has gorgeous views of the valley below. With surreal cliffs and a pyramid overhead, the restaurant’s setting could scarcely be more striking. The menu features steak in foie gras sauce, chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and Italian herbs, róbalo (snook) carpaccio in vinaigrette and the like – all paired with imported wines.
reviewed
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Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac
The Palacio de Cortés houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, which has two floors of exhibits highlighting Mexican cultures and history. The last ticket is sold at 5:30pm. On the ground floor, exhibits focus on pre-Hispanic cultures, including the local Tlahuica and their relationship with the Aztec empire. Most labeling is in Spanish only, with a few well-translated exceptions.
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