Sights in South Of Mexico City
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Recinto de La Catedral
Cuernavaca's cathedral stands in a large high-walled recinto (compound) - the entrance gate is on Hidalgo. Like the Palacio de Cortés, the cathedral was built in a grand fortress-like style, in an effort to impress, intimidate and defend against the natives. Franciscans started work on what was one of Mexico's earliest Christian missions in 1526, using indigenous labor and stones from the rubble of Cuauhnáhuac.
The first construction was the Capilla Abierta de San José, an open chapel on the cathedral's west side. The cathedral itself, the Templo de la Asunción de María, is plain and solid, with an unembellished facade. The side door, which faces north to the compound'…
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Parroquia de Santa Prisca
The Parroquia de Santa Prisca is the symbol of Taxco and was a labor of love for town hero José de la Borda. The local Catholic hierarchy allowed the silver magnate to donate this church to Taxco on the condition that he mortgage his mansion and other assets to guarantee its completion; the project nearly bankrupted him, but the risk was well worth it – the resulting building is one of Mexico’s most beautiful and striking pieces of baroque architecture. Perhaps Santa Prisca’s most striking feature is the contrast between its belfries with their elaborate Churrigueresque facade overlooking the Plaza Borda and the far more simple, constrained and elegant nave, when viewed f…
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Museo Robert Brady
The one-time home of American artist and collector Robert Brady (1928–86), Museo Robert Brady is a wonderful place to spend time appreciating the exquisite taste of one man. Brady lived in Cuernavaca for 24 years after a spell in Venice, but his collections range from Papua New Guinea and India to Haiti and South America. Every room, including the two gorgeous bathrooms and kitchen, is bedecked in paintings, carvings, textiles, antiques and folk arts from all corners of the earth. Among the treasures are works by well-known Mexican artists, including Rivera, Tamayo, Kahlo and Covarrubias, as well as Brady’s own paintings (check out his spot-on portrait of his friend Pen…
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Palacio de Cortés
Cortés' imposing medieval-style fortress stands opposite the southeast end of the Plaza de Armas. Construction of this two-storey stone fortress-style palace was accomplished between 1522 and 1532, and was done on the base of the city pyramid that Cortés destroyed after taking Cuauhnáhuac, still visible from various points on the ground floor. Cortés resided here until he turned tail for Spain in 1541.
The palace remained with Cortés' family for most of the next century, but by the 18th century it was being used as a prison. During the Porfirio Díaz era it became government offices. Today the palace houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, with two floors of …
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Pirámide de Tepozteco
The uncontested main sight in town is this 10m-high pyramid, although it’s actually some 400m above the town perched atop a sheer cliff at the end of a very steep path that begins at the end of Avenida Tepozteco. Built in honor of Tepoztécatl, the Aztec god of the harvest, fertility and pulque, the pyramid is more impressive for its location than for its actual size. Be warned that the path is exhausting. Heading off early is recommended to beat the heat, and the 2km walk is not recommended to anyone not physically fit. At the top, depending on haze levels, you may be rewarded with a panorama of the valley. Bring your own water, and good shoes are highly recommended. V…
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Museo de Arte Virreinal
This charming, rather rag-tag religious art museum is housed in a wonderful old house that is often referred to as Casa Humboldt, even though the famous German explorer and naturalist Friedrich Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt slept here for only one night in 1803! The museum hosts a small but well-displayed collection of art, which is labeled in English and Spanish. The most interesting exhibit describes restoration work on Santa Prisca, during which some fabulous material (including tapestries, woodwork altarpieces and rich decorative fabrics) was discovered in the basement of the house, and there is also an interesting display on the Manila Galleons, which pioneered tra…
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Jardín Juárez
Adjoining the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the smaller Jardín Juárez, where the central gazebo (designed by tower specialist Gustave Eiffel) houses juice and sandwich stands, and hosts live band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings from 18:00. Roving vendors sell balloons, ice cream and corn on the cob under the trees, which fill up with legions of cacophonous grackles at dusk.
Even more entertaining are the guitar trios who warm up their voices and instruments before heading to the cafés across the street to serenade willing patrons. You can request a ballad or two for around $75.
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Ex-Convento Domínico de la Natividad
The Ex-Convento Domínico de la Natividad and the attached church were built by Dominican priests between 1560 and 1588. The plateresque church facade has Dominican seals interspersed with indigenous symbols, floral designs and various figures. The monastery’s arched entryway is adorned with an elaborate seed mural of pre-Hispanic history and symbolism. Every year, during the first week of September, local artists sow a new mural from 60 varieties of seeds.
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Museo Guillermo Spratling
This very well-laid-out three-story history and archaeology museum is off an alley behind Templo de Santa Prisca. It contains a small but excellent collection of pre-Hispanic jewelry, art, pottery and sculpture from American silversmith William Spratling’s private collection. The phallic cult pieces are a particular eye-opener. On the basement floor there are examples of Spratling’s designs using pre-Hispanic motifs. The top floor hosts occasional temporary exhibits.
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Pirámide de Teopanzolco
This small archaeological site is 1km northeast of the center. There are actually two pyramids, one inside the other. You can climb on the outer base and see the older pyramid within, with a double staircase leading up to the remains of a pair of temples. Tlahuicas built the older pyramid over 800 years ago; the outside one was being constructed by the Aztecs when Cortés arrived, and was never completed. The name Teopanzolco means ‘Place of the Old Temple'.
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Museo Arqueológico Carlos Pellicer
Behind the Dominican church, this archaeology museum has a small but interesting collection of pieces from around the country, donated by Tabascan poet Carlos Pellicer Cámara. The objects on display, a mix of human and animal figures, are lively and vibrant. The stone fragments depicting a pair of rabbits – the symbol for Ometochtli, the leader of the 400 rabbit gods of drunkenness – were discovered at the Tepozteco pyramid site.
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Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac
The Palacio de Cortés houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, which has two floors of exhibits highlighting Mexican cultures and history. The last ticket is sold at 5:30pm. On the ground floor, exhibits focus on pre-Hispanic cultures, including the local Tlahuica and their relationship with the Aztec empire. Most labeling is in Spanish only, with a few well-translated exceptions.
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Casa Borda
Built by José de la Borda in 1759, the Casa Borda serves as a cultural center hosting experimental theater and exhibiting contemporary sculpture, painting and photography by Guerrero artists. The building, however, is the main attraction. Due to the unevenness of the terrain, the rear window looks out on a precipitous four-story drop, even though the entrance is on the ground floor.
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Centro Cultural Muros
The city’s best art gallery, the Centro Cultural Muros is home to restored murals from Cuernavaca’s Hotel Casino de la Selva, and a private collection of more than 320 paintings, sculptures, videos and photographs. Highlights include Frida Kahlo’s Diego en mi Pensamiento, and works by Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, Tamayo and emerging 21st-century artists.
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Jardín Borda
Beside the 1784 Parroquia de Guadalupe, this extravagant property, Jardín Borda inspired by Versailles, was designed in 1783 for Manuel de la Borda as an addition to the stately residence built by his father, José de la Borda. From 1866, Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota entertained their courtiers here, and used the house as a summer residence.
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Parque Nacional Grutas de Cacahuamilpa
One of central Mexico’s most stunning natural phenomena is the Cacahuamilpa caverns, a must-see for anyone visiting Taxco or Cuernavaca. The sheer scale of the caves is hard to conceive, with vast chambers up to 82m high leading 1.2km beneath the mountainside, inside of which are mind-blowing stalactites and stalagmites.
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Plaza de Armas
Cuernavaca's zócalo, Plaza de Armas , is flanked on the east by the Palacio de Cortés, on the west by the Palacio de Gobierno and on the northeast and south by restaurants and roving bands of mariachis. It's the only main plaza in Mexico without a church, chapel, convent or cathedral overlooking it.
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Agua Hedionda
Cuautla’s best-known balneario is the riverside Agua Hedionda. Waterfalls replenish two lake-sized pools with sulfur-scented tepid water. Take an ‘Agua Hedionda’ bus (M$5.50) from Plazuela Revolución del Sur. On Thursday two get in for the price of one.
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Museo Histórico del Oriente
The former residence of José María Morelos houses the Museo Histórico del Oriente. Each room covers a different historical period with displays of pre-Hispanic pottery, good maps and early photos of Cuautla and Zapata.
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El Almeal
A balneario worth visiting is El Almeal. This place is served by a spring (no sulfur) and has extensive shaded picnic grounds.
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Los Limones
Los Limones is a balneario worth visiting. It is served by a spring (no sulfur) and has extensive shaded picnic grounds.
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Palacio de Gobierno
Although you can't enter the Palacio de Gobierno, it is a nice spot to contemplate some attractive architecture and enjoy the music.
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