Things to do in Cuernavaca
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Cetlalic
Emphasizes language learning, cultural awareness and social responsibility. Offers a large range of social justice programs including specially tailored gay and lesbian programs.
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Recinto de La Catedral
Cuernavaca's cathedral stands in a large high-walled recinto (compound) - the entrance gate is on Hidalgo. Like the Palacio de Cortés, the cathedral was built in a grand fortress-like style, in an effort to impress, intimidate and defend against the natives. Franciscans started work on what was one of Mexico's earliest Christian missions in 1526, using indigenous labor and stones from the rubble of Cuauhnáhuac.
The first construction was the Capilla Abierta de San José, an open chapel on the cathedral's west side. The cathedral itself, the Templo de la Asunción de María, is plain and solid, with an unembellished facade. The side door, which faces north to the compound'…
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Museo Robert Brady
The one-time home of American artist and collector Robert Brady (1928–86), Museo Robert Brady is a wonderful place to spend time appreciating the exquisite taste of one man. Brady lived in Cuernavaca for 24 years after a spell in Venice, but his collections range from Papua New Guinea and India to Haiti and South America. Every room, including the two gorgeous bathrooms and kitchen, is bedecked in paintings, carvings, textiles, antiques and folk arts from all corners of the earth. Among the treasures are works by well-known Mexican artists, including Rivera, Tamayo, Kahlo and Covarrubias, as well as Brady’s own paintings (check out his spot-on portrait of his friend Pen…
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Palacio de Cortés
Cortés' imposing medieval-style fortress stands opposite the southeast end of the Plaza de Armas. Construction of this two-storey stone fortress-style palace was accomplished between 1522 and 1532, and was done on the base of the city pyramid that Cortés destroyed after taking Cuauhnáhuac, still visible from various points on the ground floor. Cortés resided here until he turned tail for Spain in 1541.
The palace remained with Cortés' family for most of the next century, but by the 18th century it was being used as a prison. During the Porfirio Díaz era it became government offices. Today the palace houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, with two floors of …
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Spanish Courses
Cuernavaca is a well-established center for studying Spanish at all levels, and has dozens of language schools. As such, standards are high, teaching is usually very thorough and prices very competitive. The best offer small-group or individual instruction, at all levels, with four to five hours per day of intensive instruction plus a couple of hours' conversation practice. Classes begin each Monday, and most schools recommend a minimum enrollment of four weeks.
With so many teaching styles and options, prospective students should research the choices carefully. Contact the tourist office for an extensive list of schools. The schools we list are among the most frequently …
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Reposado
Reposado is synonymous with its celebrity chef Ana García, a local girl who has made a name for herself both in Mexico and the US with her promotion of alta cocina mexicana. Don’t miss a chance to come to her intimate and charming restaurant and to try her ever-changing menu of traditional Mexican cooking with exciting twists and innovations. Tables are scattered throughout the colonial complex and romantically candlelit. There’s a stylish sofa-bed cocktail lounge in a loft overlooking the pool. Those really interested can organize to stay in the small on-site hotel here and take cookery courses with Chef García – see the website for details.
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Jardín Juárez
Adjoining the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the smaller Jardín Juárez, where the central gazebo (designed by tower specialist Gustave Eiffel) houses juice and sandwich stands, and hosts live band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings from 18:00. Roving vendors sell balloons, ice cream and corn on the cob under the trees, which fill up with legions of cacophonous grackles at dusk.
Even more entertaining are the guitar trios who warm up their voices and instruments before heading to the cafés across the street to serenade willing patrons. You can request a ballad or two for around $75.
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El Barco
This popular, no-nonsense joint specializes in Guerrero-style pozole, the all-curing Mexican version of matzo-ball soup. Small or heaping clay bowls are accompanied by fine oregano, mildly hot red chili, shredded lettuce, limes and chopped onions. Specify pollo (chicken) maciza unless you’d like your soup to include bits of fat, and especial if you enjoy avocado. For refreshment, there’s ice-cold beer, pitchers of agua de jamaica (hibiscus water) and top-shelf tequilas.
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La Strada
On the walking street also known as Callejón del Cubo, this inviting slice of Rome presents authentic Italian-Mediterranean cuisine in a covered interior courtyard. The napkins are linen, the wine cellar is well-stocked, the lettuce is organic and service is attentive. Considering its location near the Palacio de Cortés, it’s not too touristy. Romance fills the air Friday and Saturday nights, when there’s live violin music and opera singing.
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TLALOC
Run by teacher Alfredo Martínez, TLALOC was set up to provide a better deal for teachers and other Mexican employees who, according to Alfredo, get a bad deal from many of the other local language schools. Wages are higher here, teachers get paid sick leave and medical care, and there’s a strong volunteering aspect to courses here. Nevertheless, it’s cheaper than many of the bigger schools, making it a great place to give something back as well as to learn Spanish.
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Plazuela del Zacate
There's buzzing nightlife in Cuernavaca, supported by a year-round student population who keep places busy every night of the week. The most accessible bars are around Plazuela del Zacate and the adjacent alley Las Casas, where there's a selection of fun joints, most of which offer live music or karaoke, not making them great for a quiet beer. These places all open around sunset and typically don't shut their doors until around sunrise. There are no cover charges.
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Pirámide de Teopanzolco
This small archaeological site is 1km northeast of the center. There are actually two pyramids, one inside the other. You can climb on the outer base and see the older pyramid within, with a double staircase leading up to the remains of a pair of temples. Tlahuicas built the older pyramid over 800 years ago; the outside one was being constructed by the Aztecs when Cortés arrived, and was never completed. The name Teopanzolco means ‘Place of the Old Temple'.
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Restaurant Y Cafetería Los Arcos
Right in the thick of things off the Plaza de Armas, Los Arcos is a European-style café which makes for a great meeting place. The huge terrace is nearly always packed. Whether you come for early-morning coffee, late-night cocktails or a meal in between, you’ll find friendly and efficient service. There’s also a geletaría here serving up great ice cream. Happy hours run from 2pm to 4pm and again from 8pm to 10pm.
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Casa Hidalgo
Directly opposite the Palacio de Cortés, with a great terrace and an even better upstairs balcony, this is one of Cuernavaca’s most popular eateries and attracts a well-heeled crowd of local socialites and wealthy visitors. The menu is eclectic (try cold mango-agave soup with jicama or Tlaxcalteca chicken breast stuffed with cheese and roasted poblano pepper with three salsas: squash blossom, spinach and chipotle, for example).
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Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac
The Palacio de Cortés houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, which has two floors of exhibits highlighting Mexican cultures and history. The last ticket is sold at 5:30pm. On the ground floor, exhibits focus on pre-Hispanic cultures, including the local Tlahuica and their relationship with the Aztec empire. Most labeling is in Spanish only, with a few well-translated exceptions.
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Centro Cultural Muros
The city’s best art gallery, the Centro Cultural Muros is home to restored murals from Cuernavaca’s Hotel Casino de la Selva, and a private collection of more than 320 paintings, sculptures, videos and photographs. Highlights include Frida Kahlo’s Diego en mi Pensamiento, and works by Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, Tamayo and emerging 21st-century artists.
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Jardín Borda
Beside the 1784 Parroquia de Guadalupe, this extravagant property, Jardín Borda inspired by Versailles, was designed in 1783 for Manuel de la Borda as an addition to the stately residence built by his father, José de la Borda. From 1866, Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota entertained their courtiers here, and used the house as a summer residence.
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La Cueva
This sloped bar, which opens onto the bustling crowds of Galeana, serves up superb pozole (shredded meat and hominy in a delicious pork-based broth) and a range of other delicious snacks and light meals. This is a great place to come and eat with the locals at local prices. It’s also an excellent place for breakfast, with a range on offer for just M$30.
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Gaia
Once the mansion of the ‘Mexican Charlie Chaplin, ’ actor Mario Moreno, this stylish restaurant has a very impressive international menu, with dishes like linguini with shrimp in cilantro sauce and a ‘fish trilogy’ served with tamarind and chili. Reserve a table with a view of the Diego Rivera mosaic that adorns the bottom of the swimming pool.
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Plaza de Armas
Cuernavaca's zócalo, Plaza de Armas , is flanked on the east by the Palacio de Cortés, on the west by the Palacio de Gobierno and on the northeast and south by restaurants and roving bands of mariachis. It's the only main plaza in Mexico without a church, chapel, convent or cathedral overlooking it.
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La India Bonita
Set in a lush courtyard, Cuernavaca’s oldest restaurant also has some of its best traditional Mexican food – from brocheta al mezcal (skewered meats marinated in mezcal) to chile en nogada (poblano pepper in walnut sauce) – with the occasional enticing twist.
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Bon’s Café
Head to this large, open café on a pedestrian avenue for affordable, delicious breakfasts – including scrumptious bagel sandwiches, waffles and croissants – and a quiet place to read or use your laptop (wi-fi is free). Afternoon fare includes simple paninis and heaping salads.
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Arena Isabel
Are you ready to rumble, amigo? Less highbrow diversions, namely lucha libre (a form of wrestling), go down here in the squared ring. Check out the good-versus-evil lineups on posters pasted up around town. Lucha libre is very popular with kids.
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Club Memories
Better discos charge a cover of at least $50, but women often get in free. Some discos enforce dress codes, and trendier places post style police at the door. Things really get going after 11pm. Club Memories is an upscale option.
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Souvenir Stalls
Cuernavaca lacks distinctive handicrafts, but if you crave an onyx ashtray, a leather belt or some second-rate silver, peruse the souvenir stalls adjacent to Palacio de Cortés or around the Plaza de Armas on weekends.
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