Sights in Cuernavaca
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Recinto de La Catedral
Cuernavaca's cathedral stands in a large high-walled recinto (compound) - the entrance gate is on Hidalgo. Like the Palacio de Cortés, the cathedral was built in a grand fortress-like style, in an effort to impress, intimidate and defend against the natives. Franciscans started work on what was one of Mexico's earliest Christian missions in 1526, using indigenous labor and stones from the rubble of Cuauhnáhuac.
The first construction was the Capilla Abierta de San José, an open chapel on the cathedral's west side. The cathedral itself, the Templo de la Asunción de María, is plain and solid, with an unembellished facade. The side door, which faces north to the…
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Museo Robert Brady
The one-time home of American artist and collector Robert Brady (1928–86), Museo Robert Brady is a wonderful place to spend time appreciating the exquisite taste of one man. Brady lived in Cuernavaca for 24 years after a spell in Venice, but his collections range from Papua New Guinea and India to Haiti and South America. Every room, including the two gorgeous bathrooms and kitchen, is bedecked in paintings, carvings, textiles, antiques and folk arts from all corners of the earth. Among the treasures are works by well-known Mexican artists, including Rivera, Tamayo, Kahlo and Covarrubias, as well as Brady’s own paintings (check out his spot-on portrait of his friend…
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Palacio de Cortés
Cortés' imposing medieval-style fortress stands opposite the southeast end of the Plaza de Armas. Construction of this two-storey stone fortress-style palace was accomplished between 1522 and 1532, and was done on the base of the city pyramid that Cortés destroyed after taking Cuauhnáhuac, still visible from various points on the ground floor. Cortés resided here until he turned tail for Spain in 1541.
The palace remained with Cortés' family for most of the next century, but by the 18th century it was being used as a prison. During the Porfirio Díaz era it became government offices. Today the palace houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, with two floors of…
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Jardín Juárez
Adjoining the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the smaller Jardín Juárez, where the central gazebo (designed by tower specialist Gustave Eiffel) houses juice and sandwich stands, and hosts live band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings from 18:00. Roving vendors sell balloons, ice cream and corn on the cob under the trees, which fill up with legions of cacophonous grackles at dusk.
Even more entertaining are the guitar trios who warm up their voices and instruments before heading to the cafés across the street to serenade willing patrons. You can request a ballad or two for around $75.
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Pirámide de Teopanzolco
This small archaeological site is 1km northeast of the center. There are actually two pyramids, one inside the other. You can climb on the outer base and see the older pyramid within, with a double staircase leading up to the remains of a pair of temples. Tlahuicas built the older pyramid over 800 years ago; the outside one was being constructed by the Aztecs when Cortés arrived, and was never completed. The name Teopanzolco means ‘Place of the Old Temple'.
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Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac
The Palacio de Cortés houses the excellent Museo Regional Cuauhnáhuac, which has two floors of exhibits highlighting Mexican cultures and history. The last ticket is sold at 5:30pm. On the ground floor, exhibits focus on pre-Hispanic cultures, including the local Tlahuica and their relationship with the Aztec empire. Most labeling is in Spanish only, with a few well-translated exceptions.
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Centro Cultural Muros
The city’s best art gallery, the Centro Cultural Muros is home to restored murals from Cuernavaca’s Hotel Casino de la Selva, and a private collection of more than 320 paintings, sculptures, videos and photographs. Highlights include Frida Kahlo’s Diego en mi Pensamiento, and works by Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, Tamayo and emerging 21st-century artists.
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Jardín Borda
Beside the 1784 Parroquia de Guadalupe, this extravagant property, Jardín Borda inspired by Versailles, was designed in 1783 for Manuel de la Borda as an addition to the stately residence built by his father, José de la Borda. From 1866, Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota entertained their courtiers here, and used the house as a summer residence.
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Plaza de Armas
Cuernavaca's zócalo, Plaza de Armas , is flanked on the east by the Palacio de Cortés, on the west by the Palacio de Gobierno and on the northeast and south by restaurants and roving bands of mariachis. It's the only main plaza in Mexico without a church, chapel, convent or cathedral overlooking it.
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Palacio de Gobierno
Although you can't enter the Palacio de Gobierno, it is a nice spot to contemplate some attractive architecture and enjoy the music.
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